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I have seen a lot of questions on the A/C Drain lately. Last year I cleaned my drain with a short wire and all was well. The big question, can I take an air hose with low pressure and blow up the drain hose to make sure it is clear. The utter is so small that I am thinking of cutting the end off to make sure it does not stop up again. Thoughts?
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by Oldvetter
Just blowing debris into system only prolongs problem.
I found a piece of plastic hose that fit over the A/C drain hose and then duct taped it to a vacuum hose. Sucked out a bunch of stuff and have had no trouble since. You'll have to reach down and work the drain hose around so you can get a vacuum hose on it, but simply blowing air in to it aint gonna help...JMHO.
The drain tube is on the passengers side of the fire wall. The flash light is shining on the area where it is located. Its best to reach it from under the car. If you have headers, get it from the TOP!!!
Is on the fire wall where the light is shining. Look in the recessed area highlighted by the light!
Had the A/C leak into the passenger footwell problem yesterday. Pulled the carpet back to let everything dry.
I yanked the drain hose this morning and sure enough it was clogged with a slimeball. My question... how do I get the drain hose back on! Do I install from on top or do I have to get underneath the car? I'm pulled it from the top, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get it back on.
Since the leak my Security light comes on whenever I start the car and does NOT go out. I unhooked battery last night and rehooked it this morning... no change. I tried to pull the ECM to make sure it was dry... how the heck to I unhook the three wire bundles connected to the left side??!?! Any and all help is appreciated.
All three bundles have a clip that you need to depress to pull them out. They can be a bit hard to remove but as long as you are pressing the clip, you can get them out. Take it out and make sure it is dry. I just got done replacing mine due to it getting wet and fried. PM Bill Curlee, he was of great assistance with troubleshooting mine. Good luck!
All three bundles have a clip that you need to depress to pull them out. They can be a bit hard to remove but as long as you are pressing the clip, you can get them out. Take it out and make sure it is dry. I just got done replacing mine due to it getting wet and fried. PM Bill Curlee, he was of great assistance with troubleshooting mine. Good luck!
Thanks... any tips for re-installing the A/C drain tube that comes out of the firewall? Can I run the A/C without the tube?
My problem is different, in that it is draining fine, but it is draining cold water onto my SS headers, and sizzling on there until the headers cool down. Aside from the annoyance of the dripping, sizzling sound, I'm wondering if the hot metal meeting the cold water will eventually crack the steel? Anyone else experiencing this?
Thanks... any tips for re-installing the A/C drain tube that comes out of the firewall? Can I run the A/C without the tube?
I was finally able to reinstall it from under the car. It took some time and cussing, but finally got it back in. Not sure about running it without the tube.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by ytwokc5
Had the A/C leak into the passenger footwell problem yesterday. Pulled the carpet back to let everything dry.
I yanked the drain hose this morning and sure enough it was clogged with a slimeball. My question... how do I get the drain hose back on! Do I install from on top or do I have to get underneath the car? I'm pulled it from the top, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get it back on.
Since the leak my Security light comes on whenever I start the car and does NOT go out. I unhooked battery last night and rehooked it this morning... no change. I tried to pull the ECM to make sure it was dry... how the heck to I unhook the three wire bundles connected to the left side??!?! Any and all help is appreciated.
Sounds like you're working on the BCM, (Body Control Module), not the PCM. You're definitely checking the right things.
HTH,
Robert
BTW, I would keep the hose and just snip off a little of the rubber to make the opening larger.
Sounds like you're working on the BCM, (Body Control Module), not the PCM. You're definitely checking the right things.
HTH,
Robert
BTW, I would keep the hose and just snip off a little of the rubber to make the opening larger.
Thanks for the feedback everyone... def the BCM LoneStar. Good news is I dried everything out really well, no more "Security" light staying lit and no other error codes. Ran through the error codes in DIC and all were History codes. Carpet and backing dried out really well. The one remaining item is to reinstall the drain hose, def plan to snip off the narrow opening.
I don't have moisture in the car, just a bad smell when I get in the car the next day. If I remember to turn off the compressor the last mile or so of my ride, it doesn't smell the next day.
My problem is different, in that it is draining fine, but it is draining cold water onto my SS headers, and sizzling on there until the headers cool down. Aside from the annoyance of the dripping, sizzling sound, I'm wondering if the hot metal meeting the cold water will eventually crack the steel? Anyone else experiencing this?
My problem is different, in that it is draining fine, but it is draining cold water onto my SS headers, and sizzling on there until the headers cool down. Aside from the annoyance of the dripping, sizzling sound, I'm wondering if the hot metal meeting the cold water will eventually crack the steel? Anyone else experiencing this?
No problem, the headers are so hot, the drops of water just boil off...
No damage to them..