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new crank seal leaking- help

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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:15 AM
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Default new crank seal leaking- help

This has been a long and unlucky project. Finally put rebuilt motor back into car this weekend. I spared no expense- like to do things right once! New crank, rods, pistons, main & head studs, all new gaskets and seals, and even some new sensors. I followed each step in the shop manual.
Yet, after I started the car for the first time, a d%mn oil leak appeared on the floor. I traced it down and realized that either the motor is coming back out, or I yank the tube and tranny. I did the latter and found that the brand new rear crank seal was leaking-WTF?
There are no tears or kinks in it. I left the crank and seal surface clean and dry as the manual stated (which is opposite from every other motor I have built).
What do I need to do differently? This car has been down since Nov, and I am truly tired of working on it. 2 steps forward, 3 steps back.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:59 AM
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The crank seal does go on dry, and as long as you centered it when you put it on, you should have no problems. Make sure that the gasket went smooth, and you didn't crease or crack it. Next, is it coming from the seal, or could it be where the oil pan bolts to the rear cover. Make sure you loosen the cover and bolt the pan so the pan gasket makes contack with the rear cover.

Other then that, i have no idea why it would leak if you took all these steps.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:42 AM
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Did you use the Kent Moore centering tool? Sometimes these seals can be a pain if there not on there just right.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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i rear plate removed
it was leaking from the seal
what a PITA
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Green Monster
Did you use the Kent Moore centering tool? Sometimes these seals can be a pain if there not on there just right.
have you seen how many special GM tools the shop manual shows? there is a specialty tool for everything
actually i squared it (flush) to the bottom of the oil pan so it would not leak there
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