When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After reading numerous posts about jacking up the rear of the C5 to get that last bit of oil (when changing the oil), I was wondering if it's necessary to open the doors, pop the hood open, and pop the coupe hatchback before jacking up the rear of the car. I remember that for the C4 you had to do that or you could possibly cause stress cracks in the body in different spots. Anyone have any problems with jacking up their C5?
:confused:
Not sure, but I don't think jacking under the crossmember with a single jack would cause anystress; guess it doesn't hurt either. I always have the windows down and hood open anyway at that point. I could understand if you had 4 independent jacks at each lift point on the side rails.
I had a yellow c4 and didn't know any thing about this. I did notice that Less shwab out here in the N.W. stuck a floor jack under the floor boards and started jacking. What idiots. I came slightly unclued at the time. I never jacked it up but if I did I bet it doesn't say in the manual to open doors etc... does it? My c5 I put 2x6 under rear aluminum cross member and jacked up just high enough to start oil flow again. Hope I am not messing any thing up. :confused: Guess I will take the top off open doors etc... hell I will even open the gas tank door if it will help :lol:
Let me clarify. We first drive the c5 up on little wooden ramps 2x6 to make it easy to work. So that puts the front end up 3 inches. We let it drain for 30 min. Then I jacked up rear until oil flow out and let drain for 30 more min. My guess would be 1/4 to 1/2 qut drained out after jacking. The wooden ramps are 2-2x6s fasten togather so it makes it 3 inches higher in front. :chevy
MRSTEAM, I unfortunately have to drive up and use three 2"x12" (staggered), almost 6" additional inches of clearance, so I can fit under the front and get to the drain plug. My question: I have a large pro-lift jack with the large cup (which will straddle both ribs of the cross member in the rear). Do you recommend that I still use a block of wood/5 lb weight to spread the weight more or is that recommended for the small jacks which have a smaller lifting cup? The manual states to jack in the rear closer to the "A" arm than in the center. The other option would be to jack each side from the rear and place three 2"x12" to match the front ones under each rear tire...then re-jack to remove the rear 2"x12"s when the pan has drained completely.
Mark S.
To answer your question yes I would use wood as big as piece as is comfortable to work with. As far as I am concerned the more wight displacement the better. Also I think it is always better not to have metal to metal that way the wood will give and you have no chance to leave evidence of jacking on the aluminum. I might have to go higher with my car to get under it better but my machanic can do it with just 3 inches we also installed the cags elimenator 3 inches up. Not much room for sure.
Just wanted to add that the rear wheels were on the ground still and my mechanic didn't have me jack it any higher than nessary to start good flow of oil again. As far as being closer to the A arm on the aluminum cross member in rear I just picked what I thought looked like a strong spot that was center. I did not see any part in the manual were they suggested jacking both rear wheels at once, I will look again. I did however look at manual fore lift points and it showed induvidual spots to jack for each wheel or lift points.
MRSTEAM, thanks for the response...I'll find myself a block of wood to place between the jack and crossframe (though I must admit that the large jacking cup on the jack spans the two crossmembers perfectly). I will have to jack a bit more than you...I'll have a neighbor check to see when the oil begins to flow again. :yesnod: