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yes i have it every day I have replaced the wire harness extension and the female connector at the frame. I have also replaced that hub and i still get the code. Next i will replace the ebcm
The wheel hub has a speed sensor built into it. The sensor produces a very small AC voltage as the wheel spins. The EBTCM reads the sensor outputs from each sensor (wheel speed) and if one of them is out of range for a specific amount of tone you get that code!
You can read each sensor with an ohm meter and see if the sensor is good. Then you cam spin the wheel and see if the sensor generates the AC voltage. If the sensor is good, the voltage might not be getting to the EBTCM for the unit to use. Some where between the sensor and the module there is a hight resistance or an open. You can also have a connection that opens during a high G turn or when the suspension experiences vibration which would be intermittent.
Remove the connection from the EBTCM and read each wheel speed sensor from there, Have some one move wiggle or flex all of nthe harnesses and plugs and look for an open or high resistance.
Bill, after i spliced in new female connections, i am still getting 1225, but only when i really get on the hammer and the traction control wants to kick in...would it make sense that it really is my ebcm going bad. Everything seems to be fine at lower speeds
that is the same with my car...i was gettin with it and shifted to second and the speedo jumped from 45 to 60....later that night was when i got the code....
You could possibly have a bad EBTCM. Its difficult to say! There are a lot of things going on in side of that module! Mine had a lot of cold solder joints on the circuit boards when I took it apart.
I made this recommendation in one of the other forum post:
For everyone having the dreaded 1214 code, I may have a plan to see if the EBTCM is the true culprit. When I was in the Navy and we were experiencing intermittent electrical problems on a piece of equipment, every once in a while "MECHANICAL agitation" of the electrical equipment would solve the problem.
This is what I recommend. Using a small plastic hammer or something similar, lightly tap the front of the EBTCM on the lower right corner of the module The area will be on the right hand side of the lower electrical connection:
It's the area above the smaller plug at the bottom of the module. The reason your getting the 1214 code is that a relay in the module (System Relay) is not working properly.
If the electrical contacts inside the relay are dirty or burnt, the vibration from striking the module may change the symptoms or may clear them up for a while. This is by NO MEANS a fix or cure all!! In fact, it could make it worse or it may not do anything. Its just something to try!
If you beat the hell out of it,, your on your own brother!!! I would tap it just hard enough to vibrate the relays that are in that area :
If it changes the symptoms or clears up the problem, it will give you a better idea that the expensive EBTCM is the problem and you will feel a LOT better about purchasing a new one.
You dont have the 1214 code but tapping the module could help prove the module bad!
If you disconnect the main plug off the EBTCM, you can read each wheel sensor from there. As your reading the sensor resistance, wiggle the sensor pig tail, the extension harness and the connectors. Watch the meter ans see if there is any increase or decrease of the resistance of the sensor.
Bill, according to the IPC code list I have, C1225 indicates LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation, not RF (C1226). You might want to double check on this before you take anything apart.