I have a 1999 FRC that I need to take emissions with(Illinois). It has been rejected 4 times now because the computer has not gone through all of its test. These are the systems that the print-out says are NOT READY:

CODES: EVAP: Evaporative system status, AIR: Secondary air system status, OS2HEAT: Heated oxygen system status

How long and what type of driving is required to make these systems ready? I've put many hundred miles on the car since each test?

 

I believe that your looking at about 40 cycles (start, drive, off) before anything changes.

 

First off,, do you have any DTC codes set??? Do you have any SES Service engine soon lights or check engine lights???

Pull up all the DTC codes and see what one are listed. any that have a C sufix are causing the system to FAIL. Once you reset them the CLOCK starts over!!

This is the absolute best C5 Code web site!!!

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html

[www.corvettedoctor.com

Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.

There is a forced procedure that helps your PCM accelerate through the test. I have to look that one up tonight.

let us know what dtc codes you see and if any are Current!!

Bill



There

 

I don't have any DTC codes that come up, I have HPTuners and set it so my rear O2's, etc. don't trigger a Check Engine light. I do have message that comes up and says Service Vehicle Soon? I don't have my tire pressure sensors on right now, could that cause it? Is there any way to see what going on besides my DTC codes with HPTuners? Can I reset the ECU somehow?

 

I went through a similar experience recently when I had to have my '02 emissions-tested due to my recent move to IN.

I had the several tests in the Not Ready mode so I did one driving cycle as prescribed by GM and went straight to the testing station and passed. I didn't even have to go through the exact cycle to get the tests to register correctly. The reason my system readiness was in that condition is that I had to load a previous tune with EFI Live when I drove my car to Indiana when I moved here and hadn't had time to drive it to get the SRT in the correct form for the emissions test. Took all of 15 minutes of driving to get it to pass. Here's the driving cycle I did most of:

General Motors OBD-II driving cycle

• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start, the engine coolant temperature must be
below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not
leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear
defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater,
Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until
88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics
will be performed.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time
the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same
diagnostics as in step 3.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be
performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5
complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or
brakes or shift gears.

Also, from forum member fallen:
If you have HP tuners you can pass emissions ASAP. Also you can see if your car is ready for said emissions tests.
Set up a bin and set all DTEs to "no error reported." Leave SES on.
Immediately upon upload of the new bin, check with you scanner to see if you are ready in all areas. You should be.

 

Just for the hell of it,,,check your codes with the built in diagnostic code test and see if you have any codes. I you do, clear them and use patches driving cuycle test!!
BC

 

Besides duration, the following conditions must be met in order for the EVAP system tests to run:

• DTCs P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0420, P0430, P0500, P0502, P0503, P0562, P0563, P1120, P1220, P1221, and HO2S DTCs are not set.
• The barometric pressure is greater than 75 kPa.
• The fuel level is between 15% and 85% of full capacity.
• The engine coolant temperature is between 4°C (39°F) and 30°C (86°F).
• The intake air temperature is between 4°C (39°F) and 30°C (86°F).
• The start up engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature are within 9°C (16°F) of each other.
• The throttle position angle is less than 75% during the weak vacuum test.
• The vehicle speed is less than 113 km/h (70 mph) during the weak vacuum test.

HTH!

 

Thanks guys greatly appreciate the help! I will definitely give these methods a try.