35 hp Ram Air System
regarding your...
:smash:
[Modified by PoBoy Racer, 4:48 PM 8/27/2001]
26 dollars in materials and takes advanage of the entire fog lamp opening in the front feeding into a pressure box with a $39 K&N in it. Also making my own mAF ends. Just ranting because I don't have a digital camera to post it yet
Get intakes guys. Keep up the ideas.
Only time will tell if it holds up to the claims it's manufacturer is making. I think it will do very well.
Thanks
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
What I should have said was that wow that is great to get those kind of #'s with just an air filter mod (however well engineered it is). I guess that I was reacting without thinking. I've spent more than $40 on MTI's ram air kit, an under-drive pulley, t-stat and catback exhaust and have only got a tad more rwhp than you.
JWSchmidt3, I did have the last part right, didn't I...I never meant to insult anyone, but you are correct sir...I should have thought before I typed and I will again apologize to anyone that felt insulted or anyone that I PO'd.
BTW: do you have any theories on how Po Boy's "setup" is creating so much power? I noticed you have done similar mods to me but only have about 12 more ponies than Po Boy.
Po Boy, By chance did you take a baseline dyno before reengineering your air intake? I noticed the you made 10 pulls. I also noticed that your CF was .95 while other sheets I've seen from MTI have CF's of 1.01 or 1.02 what is this # correcting anyway?
Sorry for the late response...
[Modified by Gary2KC5, 10:09 PM 8/28/2001]
Apology accepted. I didn't have a baseline dyno, but on that day many others with vortex rammers, halltech trics, and cat-back exhaust sytems were pulling similiar numbers. It's all about how well the car can breath when it comes to these types of mods. That said, you can get even more power by removing the filter altogether. I heard of some who have done this (on the dyno only) and have seen considerable gains over those with the intake systems on (makes sense).
I made only 2 pulls that day (I was 5th in line on dyno day, that's why the pulls are numbered 9 and 10), and the correction factor is used to correct to standard temperature and pressure, i.e. the HP the engine would produce at a baseline temp and pressure. Below is aquote from dynorun.com
" Each dyno is subjected to different atmospheric conditions. To facilitate
comparison, there has to be a "standard" to which dyno results conform or are
"corrected." In the United States this is usually Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE) standard J1349 Rev JUN90. Correcting to SAE J1349 alters the data to
make it seem as if it was taken when the atmospheric pressure was 29.23 in/hg.,
the temperature 77°F and the humidity zero.
The degree to which temperature, pressure and humidity affect power output is
constant. If we accurately measure those parameters at the dyno location, we'll
know the difference between the atmospheric conditions at the time and location
of our test and those of SAE J1349. That difference is applied to the raw data and
the result is corrected power and torque which we can compare to other data
taken anywhere in the world that is also corrected to J1349"
The actual power measured on the dyno was 336 RWHP, but since the conditions were better than what is deemed standard, the corrected HP was 320.
[Modified by PoBoy Racer, 7:00 AM 8/29/2001]
Also thanks for the info on the dyno. I noticed on my dyno sheet that the correction factor is exactly 100. Now I'm wondering if the shop bothered to calculate the CF, or does the computer automatically do that.
It was 83 degrees out when I dyno'd and the coolant was way too hot, I should have rescheduled the pulls.
(1) 4 inch flexible Dryer Hose $7.00
(1) Roll of Duck Tape
$2.00(2) pieces of Sheet metal $3.00/each
(1) package of sheet metal screws $1.00
(1) tube of silcone Chalking $2.00
(1) package of Weatherstriping $3.00
(1) K&N filter Size based on Size of box you make with the Sheet metal $39
$60 total and alittle work
When I finish my MAF ends, I will take detailed pictures for anyone interested in making everything themselves instead of giving all your money to the vendors.
later guys,
Ralph
When I finish my MAF ends, I will take detailed pictures for anyone interested in making everything themselves instead of giving all your money to the vendors.
later guys,
Ralph
[Modified by PoBoy Racer, 7:00 AM 8/30/2001]
I like your setup. I tend to like to use sheet metal because it's so cheap, but man it's hard on the hands That poopie is sharp :smash: :lol: Well anyway, I should have this thing done and pictures taken in about 2 days, so maybe we can compare notes
. When I get my MAF ends done you will have to see them. I was running the car without the restrictive maf ends from the factory, and WOW it made a big difference. Just don't want to pay 250 for an intake and 100 for the ends when I can make them myself and put the money towards something else.
When I finish my MAF ends, I will take detailed pictures for anyone interested in making everything themselves instead of giving all your money to the vendors.
later guys,
Ralph
Hey Ralph, it looks like you and I think alot alike!! :jester Are you an engineer also??
[Modified by PoBoy Racer, 7:00 AM 8/30/2001]
here is the link in case someone might be wanting to play around with their C5 intake and not spend 300+
later guys. http://www.fbody.com/members/grimmy/intake.htm
Vortex = 225.00
4 " "Tubing" = 16.00
Not bad vs the rumored 500.00 eh?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=145113
[Modified by bparker, 5:12 PM 9/4/2001]














