Codes and cures?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 156
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From: Ruskin Fl
Codes and cures?
I was told that my A/C compressor is shot, and of course, a fortune to replace. The pressures coming in and out are (supposedly) wholly out of whack. Considering how little I use it, even living in Florida, I am not happy. 33K miles
My DIC codes for this are 99 HVAC B0 361 H (left actuator feedback short to ground), and B0 441 H (left actuator out of range). I don't know what an actuator is to demonstrate my level of ignorance but I have faith that this L actuator is BLOOEY.
If the technically savvy could tell me if this pair of glitches have caused or contributed to this type of compressor failure, could cause it again or would be MASKING/SIMULATING a compressor failure I would be happy for that input.
My ABS, T/C and avoid that curb feature has also gone south. I have A DIC of 28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open). I have checked the fuses (thanks to those folks who helped me with that). Is this a resolvable issue for a shade tree guy? It took it's time in competely collapsing coming and going for a couple of weeks.
I am now going to also pay for my curb dust up on one real Mag.
I am somewhat adept at these things but am an apartment dweller who no longer has all the paraphanelia that would make anythng easy.
My saga with this vehicle has led me to the Chevrolet complaint department and they will chip in 70% of the cost of repair for the A/C. Thank you GM.
(This was after replacing the motor and cooling system due to an oil galley leak. Moy money at 22K. Two Column locks in 10K.)
Am I just being whiney? Consider this. I have checked the udders on the driver's side fire wall and they are clear. I still have my leak into the footwell on that side. One member suggests that it's where the wiring harness emerges from the passenger compartment. Does anyone know how to access this without disassembling the ....well, whatever?
I feel set upon. Help me with my burden. This has been a 3200 lb slug eating my wallet. I need relief or a small fiberglass fire.
It's pretty but reminds me of women I once could afford.
My DIC codes for this are 99 HVAC B0 361 H (left actuator feedback short to ground), and B0 441 H (left actuator out of range). I don't know what an actuator is to demonstrate my level of ignorance but I have faith that this L actuator is BLOOEY.
If the technically savvy could tell me if this pair of glitches have caused or contributed to this type of compressor failure, could cause it again or would be MASKING/SIMULATING a compressor failure I would be happy for that input.
My ABS, T/C and avoid that curb feature has also gone south. I have A DIC of 28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open). I have checked the fuses (thanks to those folks who helped me with that). Is this a resolvable issue for a shade tree guy? It took it's time in competely collapsing coming and going for a couple of weeks.
I am now going to also pay for my curb dust up on one real Mag.
I am somewhat adept at these things but am an apartment dweller who no longer has all the paraphanelia that would make anythng easy.
My saga with this vehicle has led me to the Chevrolet complaint department and they will chip in 70% of the cost of repair for the A/C. Thank you GM.
(This was after replacing the motor and cooling system due to an oil galley leak. Moy money at 22K. Two Column locks in 10K.)
Am I just being whiney? Consider this. I have checked the udders on the driver's side fire wall and they are clear. I still have my leak into the footwell on that side. One member suggests that it's where the wiring harness emerges from the passenger compartment. Does anyone know how to access this without disassembling the ....well, whatever?
I feel set upon. Help me with my burden. This has been a 3200 lb slug eating my wallet. I need relief or a small fiberglass fire.
It's pretty but reminds me of women I once could afford.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Dennis
I really feel bad for you!! So,,I will do my best to provide some relief!
The very first thing that yo need to do is clear ALL the codes. Then put your car and AC system through a nice ride and when your through, recheck all the codes and then repost them for troubleshooting!
I will respond to your post below each paragraph so that I can answer each problem:
Please let me know if this helps or if I can explain anything else better.
Bill Curlee
I really feel bad for you!! So,,I will do my best to provide some relief!
The very first thing that yo need to do is clear ALL the codes. Then put your car and AC system through a nice ride and when your through, recheck all the codes and then repost them for troubleshooting!
I will respond to your post below each paragraph so that I can answer each problem:
Originally Posted by DEciiBel
I was told that my A/C compressor is shot, and of course, a fortune to replace. The pressures coming in and out are (supposedly) wholly out of whack. Considering how little I use it, even living in Florida, I am not happy. 33K miles
Who's diagnosis is this?
I would get a second opinion. Does the compressor run??? What is consideded out of whack??? The pressure should be around 27 PSI on the suction side and 150 on the high pressure side at 80 degrees temp, 70% humidity and 1000 rpm.
Reliative humidity and outside temperature have an effect on the pressures.
My DIC codes for this are 99 HVAC B0 361 H (left actuator feedback short to ground), and B0 441 H (left actuator out of range). I don't know what an actuator is to demonstrate my level of ignorance but I have faith that this L actuator is BLOOEY.
The left actuator is under the dash and is mounted on the HVAC air box. They control the temperature doors. The actuators are known problems. They are easily replaceable (getting to them requires that you to be good at the game twister
and Limbo as you will need to lay in the drivers seat with your head under the dash. The actuators ar not too expensive and should solve that problem.
If the technically savvy could tell me if this pair of glitches have caused or contributed to this type of compressor failure, could cause it again or would be MASKING/SIMULATING a compressor failure I would be happy for that input.
Im not positive that you have a compressor failure!! I would have an independant shop trouble shoot the compressor issue. DO NOT tell them that you think the compressor is bad! You own a vette, so you have LOTs of money! They will instinctly agree with you and replace it !!
My ABS, T/C and avoid that curb feature has also gone south. I have A DIC of 28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open). I have checked the fuses (thanks to those folks who helped me with that). Is this a resolvable issue for a shade tree guy? It took it's time in competely collapsing coming and going for a couple of weeks.
I am now going to also pay for my curb dust up on one real Mag.
If you truley have "28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open)" your best bet is to see if GM Custermor assistance will help cover the repaire on that on too. There have been lots of C5 owners that have had good success with this. I for one have also had success with this plan! Thanks GM!! Its a safety issue and should NOT be defective with that little amount of miles! If your not anle to get GM to help, I would purchase one of the remanufactured units that have up-graded relays and componets and have a warranty!
The module is easily replaceable and only requires simple hand tools and about one hour of your time start to finish!
I am somewhat adept at these things but am an apartment dweller who no longer has all the paraphanelia that would make anythng easy.
My saga with this vehicle has led me to the Chevrolet complaint department and they will chip in 70% of the cost of repair for the A/C. Thank you GM.
(This was after replacing the motor and cooling system due to an oil galley leak. Moy money at 22K. Two Column locks in 10K.)
Am I just being whiney? Consider this. I have checked the udders on the driver's side fire wall and they are clear. I still have my leak into the footwell on that side. One member suggests that it's where the wiring harness emerges from the passenger compartment. Does anyone know how to access this without disassembling the ....well, whatever?
Drivers side foot well leaks are easily fixed!! Remove the drivers side wheel and look in the wheel well. The rear of the wheel well will be an access panel.
You can examine the uders, wiring harness and fire wall through that access. Run water on the car and see where it is going. I would also remove the carpet and jute to properly dry it. While its out, you will be better able to see where the water is entering the foot well. My guess is its coming in through the door hinge area. (Been there done that.!!)
Here are some pictures of what Im talking about:
Drivers side upper door hinge sealed with body putty:
Here is a picture of the passengers side with out the putty:
If the door hinge leaks you will see water leaking from the door sill area directly below the hinge area. With the carpets out, you will be able to track the leak down.
I feel set upon. Help me with my burden. This has been a 3200 lb slug eating my wallet. I need relief or a small fiberglass fire.
It's pretty but reminds me of women I once could afford.
Who's diagnosis is this?
I would get a second opinion. Does the compressor run??? What is consideded out of whack??? The pressure should be around 27 PSI on the suction side and 150 on the high pressure side at 80 degrees temp, 70% humidity and 1000 rpm. Reliative humidity and outside temperature have an effect on the pressures.
My DIC codes for this are 99 HVAC B0 361 H (left actuator feedback short to ground), and B0 441 H (left actuator out of range). I don't know what an actuator is to demonstrate my level of ignorance but I have faith that this L actuator is BLOOEY.
The left actuator is under the dash and is mounted on the HVAC air box. They control the temperature doors. The actuators are known problems. They are easily replaceable (getting to them requires that you to be good at the game twister
and Limbo as you will need to lay in the drivers seat with your head under the dash. The actuators ar not too expensive and should solve that problem.If the technically savvy could tell me if this pair of glitches have caused or contributed to this type of compressor failure, could cause it again or would be MASKING/SIMULATING a compressor failure I would be happy for that input.
Im not positive that you have a compressor failure!! I would have an independant shop trouble shoot the compressor issue. DO NOT tell them that you think the compressor is bad! You own a vette, so you have LOTs of money! They will instinctly agree with you and replace it
!!My ABS, T/C and avoid that curb feature has also gone south. I have A DIC of 28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open). I have checked the fuses (thanks to those folks who helped me with that). Is this a resolvable issue for a shade tree guy? It took it's time in competely collapsing coming and going for a couple of weeks.
I am now going to also pay for my curb dust up on one real Mag.
If you truley have "28 TCS c 1214 H C (sol valve relay contact or coil ckt open)" your best bet is to see if GM Custermor assistance will help cover the repaire on that on too. There have been lots of C5 owners that have had good success with this. I for one have also had success with this plan! Thanks GM!! Its a safety issue and should NOT be defective with that little amount of miles! If your not anle to get GM to help, I would purchase one of the remanufactured units that have up-graded relays and componets and have a warranty!
The module is easily replaceable and only requires simple hand tools and about one hour of your time start to finish!
I am somewhat adept at these things but am an apartment dweller who no longer has all the paraphanelia that would make anythng easy.
My saga with this vehicle has led me to the Chevrolet complaint department and they will chip in 70% of the cost of repair for the A/C. Thank you GM.
(This was after replacing the motor and cooling system due to an oil galley leak. Moy money at 22K. Two Column locks in 10K.)
Am I just being whiney? Consider this. I have checked the udders on the driver's side fire wall and they are clear. I still have my leak into the footwell on that side. One member suggests that it's where the wiring harness emerges from the passenger compartment. Does anyone know how to access this without disassembling the ....well, whatever?
Drivers side foot well leaks are easily fixed!! Remove the drivers side wheel and look in the wheel well. The rear of the wheel well will be an access panel.
You can examine the uders, wiring harness and fire wall through that access. Run water on the car and see where it is going. I would also remove the carpet and jute to properly dry it. While its out, you will be better able to see where the water is entering the foot well. My guess is its coming in through the door hinge area. (Been there done that.!!)
Here are some pictures of what Im talking about:
Drivers side upper door hinge sealed with body putty:
Here is a picture of the passengers side with out the putty:
If the door hinge leaks you will see water leaking from the door sill area directly below the hinge area. With the carpets out, you will be able to track the leak down.
I feel set upon. Help me with my burden. This has been a 3200 lb slug eating my wallet. I need relief or a small fiberglass fire.
It's pretty but reminds me of women I once could afford.
Bill Curlee
