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I am going to be installing eradispeeds in a week or two. I need to know the torque specs on the caliper bolts and what kind of lock tight to buy? Should I order new bolts? Does anyone have detailed installation instructions for these parts? I am also going to get new pads. I am undecided on the type. I want the ones with high kevlar and low dust, but wonder if they are any good? Anyone have them? Any recomendations?
The best place to look for detailed info on the swap is the shop manual. Caliper bridge to spindle bracket torque is 125 ft/lbs. Caliper to bridge support bracket bolt torque is 23 ft/lbs. If no manual is available process is very easy.
1) Raise car & use jack stands !!
2) Remove wheel
3) Remove two bolts holding caliper to bridge bracket, and lift caliper off rotor. Place on A arm to support. Do not let caliper hang from hose.
4) Slide out brake pads from caliper bridge, being careful not to lose any of the anti-rattle springs. They cost $37.00 a set from GM.
5) Remove caliper bridge bolts. They will be very tight, you will need a breaker bar or impact gun to get them loose.
6) Remove spring clips on lug studs and slide rotor off. For rear rotors be sure parking brake is OFF. If rotors stick gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet will break them loose.
7) Clean old lok-tite off bolts and reassemble in reverse order. Use loktite sparingly a little goes a long way.
8) Follow MFGRS instructions on rotor/pad breakin.
9) ENJOY!!
Been there done this. This is one messy job. Once you get the wheels off. Bleed the brakes first. if you are changing pads. If you don't have a vacuum pump or speed bleeders you will need two people to bleed the brakes. Use a turkey baster to get as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder then put new fluid in. Start with the right rear. Loosen the bleeder first then have someone in the car have them push down and then you open the bleeder when the pedal is down close the bleeder and repeat until you get nice new fluid. Then do the left rear, right front then do the left front. The reason you do this is because when you change the pads you must push the pistons back into the caliper this can cause junk and old fluid to flush back up the system. Oh yea make sure you keep the master cylinder full you don,t want to run it dry. You will have a problem if you pump air into the system. Secondly when you change the pads make sure the master cylinder is not completely full as you will be pushing fluid back up and it could overflow and cause a big mess. DON'T GET BRAKE FLUID ON THE PAINT. IT WILL REMOVE IT IMMEDIATELY.
Now for the brakes. You need to get the car on jack stands and as high as you can get it. The bolts for the caliper bracket are a major :boxing to get off. You will need a long breaker bar. Do not use an impact wrench. I broke two sockets using an impact wrench trying to remove those bastards. The fronts are easier than the rears as you can turn the wheel to get better access. You will need a long torque wrench preferably a double click to get the torque upto 125lbs. I weigh 215 and it was not easy. The higher the car the easier. Overall it took me and another forum memvber about 8 hours to do all of the following:
1. Bleed brakes
2. Replace Bias Spring with DRM Unit
3. Replace Rubber hoses with SS lines
4. Remove and Replace all four rotors
5. Remove and Replace brake pads
You dont have to bleed the brakes.. the job takes about an hour and a half tops.. the caliper brackets are hard to break from the top.. if you have a lift and can get under the car the caliper brakets are easier to break ... it takes 130 140 ft pounds to brake them.. leverage is at a minimum from the top..the pads are simple.. the caliper bolts require a 15mm and a 16 mm wrench..