Carpetman, can you take some temp readings from the center and passenger side vents? I'm curious if they are blowing the same temp or if they are different but cold enough.

 

Looking forward to what they do to fix you Joel.

 

I had a weird AC situation on my 8000 mile 2000 coupe! The previous owner put in a new red top optima a little while prior to my purchase and I noticed the AC was not as cold on the drivers side...I also noted the two codes mentioned in this thread marked with an "H" which I assume meant "History" no other codes present. So, reading all of this I did the 18, 27 fuse pull and then restarted the car...I noticed right after the fuse pull (car running) I got a crap load of chimes on the DIC...service vehicle soon, and some others...one I restarted all things seemed fine except the AC was blowing HOT! talk about pucker factor!!! so I shut down and scrolled thru the codes and found the same two HVAC codes and a few others (all lost comm with xxx) I figure a result of the fuse pull. I reset all the codes and turned her back on...to my dismay, the AC was blowing cold on both sides...and is currently still working...though there is no codes anymore...I wonder if the left actuator is bad, or going bad...or if it really was the battery install that took it out of range...

I will have to see as time goes on...

 

I had the same problem today after changing my battery. To bad I didnt read this first. I pulled half of my dash apart only to search for help here 3hrs later. Try removing the batt cables for 1hr. It work'd for me
Thanks Guys

 

I had a dead battery and afterward found the same problem, I first refilled the system with 24oz of 134a which did not help I then pulled the battery cable for 2 min. After reconnecting the battery the system is putting out 38 deg air on the driver side again.

 

Turns out the controller panel (center console near the radio controls)was defective. The Last Detail in ATL figured it out, replaced the unit, charged me a fair price for part and labor. AC now runs ice cold on both sides.
Thanks for all the replies to this thread. Hope it helps anybody else with this problem.

 

Just had mine replaced the other day....now the AC works, blows cold air on boths sides and does not throw the B0361 and B0441 codes anymore

 

this is weird. So neither of you had the acutator codes but I guess the HVAC controller was failing to send the command to the actuator to move. I have looked and I know my actuator is moving and that it is moving to the far cold side of the flap movement so I'm still stumped on mine.

 

After lots of checking mine turned out to be a small vacuum relay on the passenger side fender. I was getting the code by the way. Check ALL your vacuum lines to the A/C controller including behind the intake and in the Right fender well (passenger side).

 

FYI ALL :

I have been seeing a very similar problem on my 1999 for about a year now. Unlike 5 Liter Eater, I am getting codes. Long story short, whenever I reprogram my PCM (via EFILive), it forces a reboot of the PCM, thus forcing a recalibration of the HVAC doors. About 50% of the time, the doors didn't calibrate correctly, and gave me 2 Codes : B0361 and B0441. I would then disconnect the battery for a few minutes, and about half the time when I reconnected it, everything was fine until next time I disconnected the battery, or reprogrammed the PCM.

So, I spent this afternoon doing the reindexing of the teeth on the drivers side actuator. I am 99% sure everything is working correctly now as I cannot make the codes come back, which as stated above was pretty easy to do.

I took a ton of pictures, and tried to document everything best I could. Before I post anything, I want to make 100% sure my car is working the way it's supposed to. I'm not sure this is going to help 5 Liter Eater as his problem sounds slightly different, but for those encountering the common B0441 and B0361, it might be beneficial.

I have to put kudos out to YO-EL since he was where I first heard the tip about reindexing the teeth. So far, he seems to have the 'real' solution to the B0441 and B0361 codes. For those adding freon to 'fix' those codes, you are wasting money, and potentially damaging your cooling system. It has NOTHING to do with freon! 5 Liter Eater, you however might have a freon problem or something else.

Oh, and those who replaced the HVAC head unit, this also is a fix (albeit an expensive one). From what I understand, the 2001+ head units have some sort of additional logic (or something?) built in to compensate for a slightly out of calibration HVAC actuator.

 

I just bought a 2001, and it has the same problem. I read all of the threads here and thought I would take the easiest way out first, so I disconnected the battery for one hour. The drivers side now blows somewhat colder than it did before, but still not as cold as the passenger side. I am going to disconnect the battery overnight and see if it gets any better before I take my dash apart. I know it has the right amount of freon because I carried it to a shop and they told me it had plenty, but they did not know how to fix my problem. I will let you know what happens in a couple of days.

 

Did you check to see if you had any codes?

 

I checked my codes...I do not have any HVAC codes, but have several others, none of which I have a clue what they are or know how to find out, except to carry it to the local Chevy dealer and let them check it out. I did disconnect the battery cables overnight, and after reconnecting, the drivers side still is blowing warm air. The previous owner of this car had an aftermarket alarm system installed and there is absolutely no telling what has been removed or disconected under the dash. I have already found out there were two tubes that directed air were removed. They have since been replaced. Wish me luck...I'm going to the Chevy dealer. Anyone want to loan me any money???

 

Well I finally got around to replacing the gaskets in the rear of the compressor and installing a new orifice tube. The old orifice tube was pretty dirty and the gaskets were deformed but not crispy and deteriorated like I expected. After buttoning things up I pulled a vacuum for ~10 minutes and put in two 12 oz cans or freon and a 4 oz PAG/134 charge. Guess what?

Both sides are blowing cold now. So I guess the rule of thumb is:

B0441 and B0361 codes and temp differential = Actuator problem

No HVAC codes and temp differential = Freon/performance problem

 

BTW: Since I evacuated it I knew exactly how much 134 to put in (1.625# = 26 oz). The result is my high side pressure is sightly higher than the tables call for. So had I put in some more freon a while ago it would have solved the problem (until it leaked out again) but there would have been no way to tell this other than to keep adding freon and seeing what it did to the vent temperatures while making sure to stay under ~300 PSI on the high side.

 

For anyone having the problem and no codes I would suggest the following tools:

AC manifold set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92649

R134 vacuum machine: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92475

These (along with an air compressor) will allow you to evacuate and refill the system. This ~$50 investment allows you to recharge your own A/C on any R134 car by yourself.

 

BILL!!!! DUDE!!!! THis writeup ROCKS!!!! Harbor Freight is right down the street from me too..

I was going to use my mighty vac to do it.. BUt that vac is 1/2 the price.

Where did you get the Orifice tube? Also.. Where is it located? What other parts do I need? How many cans of freon? do I add oil? or not?

Where did you get the o

 

I donno if it qualifies as a write up but thanks!

A Mitivac will not work to evacuate the HVAC system. You need a constant vacuum. The one above is a venturi type that is constantly pulling vacuum (you need an air compressor to run it BTW) and it has the proper hookups.

The orifice tube is <$5 from NAPA, they stock it. AC Delco part#15-2722. It resides in the joint in the line going from the firewall to the condensor on the passenger side of the engine bay. you can see the two straight pipe lengths joined halfway down. It just slips in the side closer to the firewall.

The system takes 1.63# or freon or 26 oz. I used two 12 oz cans of R134 and a 4 oz can of R134/PAG oil. Technically evacuating the system should not remove any of the oil in the system. Really I just added the 4 oz can because I had it laying around and I needed 2 more oz of freon. I figured I probably lost some oil from the leak at the back of the compressor that I've had for some time.

The system has been working stellar for a few days now. I'm going to evacuate and refill my other two cars. Really evacuating and filling to weight, not pressure is much better and with the above tools is really very inexpensive to know that you have the right amount of freon in the system.

 

Ok so I will need a compressor... Not a bad tool to have in the garage..

Will this one do? Seems that it meets the CFM spec for the Vacuum

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38898

So

Compressor - $100
Guages - $30
Vacuum - $17
Orifice - $5
Freon/Oil - $20

I am looking at $172. Plus I end up with a Compressor that I can use for other stuff.. I am certain if I took it to the dealer or A/C shop this is about what I'd be charged anyway.. Correct?

 

I got my A/C fixed today. Disconnected the battery for at least an hour, then pulled a vaccuum on the system and recharged it. Now I have cold air on both sides. Actually, I did not do it myself, but took it to an a/c shop. Cost me $58.00 for the recharge. Thanks to everyone for the help.