I see bunches of people talking about nitrous and the power, etc.. but do I have to do anything else to the engine??? Most of the people have a bunch of other mods already. Are they necessary???

How much life will it take out of my engine??? Somebody please give me the lowdown. I have a bone stock 99 vert (and 99 hardtop, but the wife would freak if I put nitrous on her car) :D :smash:

 

ttt :yesnod:

 

If used properly, nitrous is very safe. The idiots that abuse it have problems.

 

what is using it properly?

is it like a theoretical "turbo button" that you press it and your car will go faster for the time you have the button pressed? how much do bottles usually last on every now and then sprays?

im woried about the bottle blowing up :( thats my own fear.

 

Good question, Willa.

I'd like to know this too, since I am basically uninformed about how you use Nitrous. Isn't the danger that if you use it the wrong way, you'll cause your engine to over-rev and thus cause damage? Please correct me as I have no idea what I'm talking about. :confused:

 

Please define properly!!! Does that mean staying anywhere from 75HP to 150HP shot for a stock C5? Within 10sec or less each time?

Thanks
-Tuan

 

I don't have nitrous but I think abusing it means running a 150 HP or above shot, no nitrous filter, rpm cutoff switch etc. You need to have all the safety goodies in order to run it safely. Sure the base kit is $600 or so but then you'll blow 85% of that on safety and convenience accessories. Anyway you slice it though the candle that burns brightest burns the shortest............

Joe

 

ok ok you got me.

NOS
Properly used, meaning understanding what your engine does. Is the car running lean or rich, etc?When using NOS you MUST know what your car is doing and what it all means. You can just go out and buy some NOS and have it installed and be done with it. But if your car is running lean or you are still running stock plugs, sooner or later your motor will be toast.
NOS does not work alone, you must add more fuel to keep it from leaning the car out. when the car gets to lean it gets hot and detonates. When that happens, you get out yer checkbook or visa.
NOS and fuel are mixed together and as the NOS expands it gets extremely cold. As it does this the oxygen gets denser, this super cool dense air combined with the fuel allows it to burn much faster and in greater amounts. The more fuel and air you can cram in a combustion chamber the more power you will make (to a point). Blowers do the same thing, force more air into the engine.

Before you think about running NOS go out and get an ATAP and learn what KR, timing and the O2's are doing. Then start with a small 75 and then watch your data. Then take out the plugs and inspect them for abnormal wear.

IMHO NOS is not as hard on your engine as a turbo because a turbo increases the cylinder pressures all the time for the most part whereas NOS does not.
A 100 shot NOS should not be a problem if you know how to read your engine and can adjust it.
:cheers:

 

Yeah the saftery add ons help out alot now. A rpm switch and TPS switch both help you from mechanically or otherwise overrevving the engine. Hitting that rev limiter on NOS is a HUGE NO-NO hahahh, but if you don't understand the air/fuel mixutre in your car all the safety gear won't help you. :cheers:

 

No hurting the engine here....100 shot working / a great ride... I love it
dyno shows results> with and without NOS....





Contact



OK.....Goooooooooooo

:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:
:crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:



[Modified by bruce1, 5:06 PM 9/3/2001]

 

Unless your motor is built to use power adders such as Nitrous, don't expect it to live long. The head gaskets, main & con rod bearings (Crank) were never intended to be subjected to the instant-on power that nitrous delivers. Be careful of who the real idiots are! I have seen two cars at a local dealership and the owner has sat around saying, "I don't know why its gettin hot and there is water coming out of the tail pipe". Be careful if you ever decide to buy a car from somebody who has Nitrous on it. It is like when I went to buy my GSXR 750 and the guy said, "Oh its never been raced" right. People don't put Nitrous on their cars because they are satisfied with stock hp, they put it on because it is cheap power for a stock motor, or they have specifically built a motor for use with Nitrous. Just my 2 cents. :cool: :cheers:

 

Bruce, kick foot install, man! Where did you get the WOT switch? Can you list all the accessories that are in your kit? Also, can we get some more pics of the install, i.e., close up of wiring, nos line, and solenoids? Thanks man! :cheers:

 

If someone can show me how to post the pics on here, or do them for me, I can take lots of pics of my install. I have custom made switches for the ashtray.

Chan

 

Mounted my solenoids a little bit different than most. Used stock air cleaner bolt holes to mount solenoid brackets on.
I would also recommend using electronic N20 activation switch. If traction controls for some reason kicks in, your throttle body will start closing. You donot want throttle body closing, while N20 is spraying.

 

thanks for the info guys. i will probably skip it for now and go with intake and exhaust. :cheers:

 

All I'm hearing is a bunch of bull. Only the scared guys are responding. Nitrous is very safe on a computer controlled car. The computer compensates for the lean condition. Our Vettes don't need additional fuel, the stock fuel pump provides ample fuel. I probably ran 100 bottles through my last LS1 150 hp shot at a time and I never had a single problem. The LS1 can handle a 150 shot easily. John Stewart of Nitrous Warehouse recommends a 200 shot for a stock Vette. You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on it either. A basic kit is pretty cheap. You don't need a window switch unless you have an M6 and a fuel pressure cutoff switch is like $20. Filter $20-30. Colder spark plugs-$12. The stuff that gets expensive is the opener and warmer. Those are cool, but not really necessary. I paid $500 for my kit in the for sale section and it has every add on you can get. Don't fool yourself, nitrous is awesome. :cuss

 

whip383, send me your pics and I can upload them for you! My E-mail is in my sig!

 

In regard to Shinobi's97, he does have a point about the stress induced on our stock pistons and bottom end by the instantaneous surge in compression that nitrous provides us. However, if you really wanted to lighten this effect so that there isn't that tremendous surge but still get the power you want, I'd suggest the Maximizer that bruce1 has on his setup. This allows you to dial in the percentage of nitrous sprayed at WOT. For instance, you can set it to spray 30-40% for a few seconds then gradually increase to 100%. This way you don't have 100% surge at the WOT but rather a nice initial burst which is elevated to a max shot at a higher RPM range (this is good because the higher the load already present, the less stress the nitrous will have on the motor). When I do my kit, TNT wet, with NX Bottle Opener, NX warmer, Maximizer, Walbro Fuel Pump, NX switch panel, BPP WOT switch, etc, I'll be sure to "dial-in" my 150 shot .

 

I think the simple fact is any power adder improperly installed and/or used "can" hurt your engine.

My .02 is have it installed professionally, gradually increase the shot while monitoring your air/fuel on the dyno (contrary to public belief, the computer will NOT guarantee you won't run lean, I've seen it on my car when the fuel solenoid quit working and was only spraying N2O). Fortunately, I WAS on the dyno when the solenoid quit and we immediately shut the engine down with a AF of nearly 16:1 (12.8-13.0 is optimal NA on my car, I shoot for 11.5-12.0) on the hose. Even with an A4, I still use a window switch to delay the spray until 3200rpm (can't hook up the tires otherwise) and limit it to 6400rpm (shift points at 6200rpm). Also, you need to watch you bottle pressures carefully. If I remember correctly, N2O vaporizes at pressures above 1163 psi, so bottle pressures of @1100psi are just about right. Having a purge system let's you assure your spraying a clean mix of fuel and nitrous. In my opinion, avoid the dry systems on the LS1 at all costs.

Also, one other note. Once you become adicted to nitrous, you will also find you will probably get kicked off the track when you crack 11's unless you have a 5pt rollcage and are wearing a fire jacket (NHRA rules). The C5 can fairly easily break into the 11's with a 150 shot of nitrous. So while you might only pay 5-700 for the nitrous, figure on adding a couple of grand for the cage and fire jacket if you plan on racing on the track. Just a word to the wise.

Bill

 

You can have a "Proper" install done by someone "smart" and "experienced" and still get a failure/blown motor. A hardware failure in the fuel system or the NOS delievery system will cause big problems.

Joel