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You can do the same amount of damage with a 50 shot as you can with a 200 shot.. if the fuel is not right...
That's not correct actually. With a 200hp system, no fuel means extremely lean a/f ratios. whereas with a 50hp no fuel means slightly lean a/f ratios. The engine can handle the slightly lean condition for a short period of time before you burn a valve or crack a ring land. With a 200 shot it takes only a second or two to do that or worse. The higher the nitrous, the more critical the need for adequate fuel.
This is beauty of the dry nitrous system. You do not have to rely on a fuel solenoid to supply the extra fuel. Solenoids usually fail in the off position, so if that happens on the fuel side you will get no fuel while the nitrous is flowing. Bad scenario. With the dry system, you can be sure that if the nitrous solenoid is open, you will additional fuel to support it from the injectors.
Actually if the motor goes pop with a 50 shot or a 200 shot.. it will do the same amount of damage.. ie n20 backfire... (been there done that) I have the pistons to prove it.. as far as what you stated. you are correct that if you dont have the correct fuel the 200 will do damage faster than the 50 shot..
A dry system: good point - n2o is more evenly distributed throughout the intake.. bad point - shouldnt rely on injectors or increased fuel pressure to give you the fuel needed.. unless you have a lean/rich monitor. tapped into your header..
Wet system: good point - you have the extra fuel set-up. safer (if installed correctly correct air-fuel ratio) bad point - unless you go with a direct port system your back cylinders sometimes run alittle lean.
Education.. its not always the jets that make the determination what HP you are getting from your n2o kit. Each car needs to be looked at differently, depending on the fuel supply.
ex. jets for a 100 shot can make 100hp with bottle pressure at 1200 psi.
jets for a 100 shot can make 50 hp with a bottle pressure at 750 psi.
Same jets just different psi ratings.. as you spray your bottle pressure drops (unless you tune it for around 750-800 psi..)
I see people heating there bottles with torches in order to get the bottle pressure up.. problem with this is that the n2o will out run the fuel to the motor, creating a lean situation..
Wet system: good point - you have the extra fuel set-up. safer (if installed correctly correct air-fuel ratio) bad point - unless you go with a direct port system your back cylinders sometimes run alittle lean.
Without a doubt, direct port is the way to go. Although it costs twice as much. The bad point with the wet system is fuel distribution to the rear cyclinders as mentioned above. This lean condition is what causes nitrous backfires. Combine that backfire with a manifold full of fuel and the results are ugly.
That is why I like the NOS dry kit for power levels under 150. Each cyclinder receives the same amount of fuel, and nitrous distribution is more even as well because fuel is not interferring with it.
All I'm hearing is a bunch of bull. Only the scared guys are responding. Nitrous is very safe on a computer controlled car. The computer compensates for the lean condition. Our Vettes don't need additional fuel, the stock fuel pump provides ample fuel. I probably ran 100 bottles through my last LS1 150 hp shot at a time and I never had a single problem. The LS1 can handle a 150 shot easily. John Stewart of Nitrous Warehouse recommends a 200 shot for a stock Vette. You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on it either. A basic kit is pretty cheap. You don't need a window switch unless you have an M6 and a fuel pressure cutoff switch is like $20. Filter $20-30. Colder spark plugs-$12. The stuff that gets expensive is the opener and warmer. Those are cool, but not really necessary. I paid $500 for my kit in the for sale section and it has every add on you can get. Don't fool yourself, nitrous is awesome. :cuss
Except when it puts a hole in the side of your engine :lol: