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The great brake mod will soon begin..

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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 08:04 AM
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Default The great brake mod will soon begin.. COMPLETED!

I am still waiting on a few parts to come in today. But I plan to start the brake mods this week. Powder coated calipers, new rotors, pads, and braided brake lines. I have read a few of the threads and think I have a good plan. Are there any pearls of wisdom out there before I start. Some 'things not to do" anyone can share. I do have one concern, and that is with the steel braided brake lines, and the possibility of throwing codes. I might beat that out of the box, and put some liquid electical tape on, prior to install.

Thoughts??


Last edited by hp_therapy; Jul 23, 2006 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 08:42 AM
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find someone local to help if this is your first brake swap, you'll need a big breaker bar/21mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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Don't put the calipers on upside down

Don't let any young children, and maybe even your wife around when you are undoing the 21mm caliper bracket bolts. No children should hear that kind of language (they're a PITA)
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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SS lines dont though any codes if installed properly.

I use Goodridge and Earls Performance Plumbing.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Go buy a small 3/8's impact gun.

Takes my caliper bracket bolts off in a few seconds.

The smaller ones will fit easily on the upper bracket bolt no problem and you'll need a swivel for the lower.

I bought my 3/8's specifically for this task.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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All good tips....

I will have my son wear his ear muffs during the work.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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On the front wheels, you can get good leverage on a breaker bar by turning the front wheels so that the caliper swings to the outside. Since the rear wheels do not swing, the only way to get good leverage on a long breaker bar is from the bottom, like when the car is on a lift, which is typically beyond the means of the average C5 owner. You have to use a shorter breaker bar, and unless you're built like Swartzenegger used to be, you won't be able to generate enough torque to break the caliper braket bolts loose. What worked good for me was using a standard home propane torch and putting the flame on the knuckles that the caliper bracket bolts to. Slowly count to 60, and you should have heated up the bolt enough to melt the Loctite, letting the bolt break free with a lot less torque. Watch the flame as the whole area is surrounded by plastic panels and a rubber brake hose.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
Go buy a small 3/8's impact gun.

Takes my caliper bracket bolts off in a few seconds.

The smaller ones will fit easily on the upper bracket bolt no problem and you'll need a swivel for the lower.

I bought my 3/8's specifically for this task.
The only decent 3/8" impact gun is the composite Ingersoll rand, snap on or mac, and they are about $300 or more, this is not sensible unless you do brakes/mechanics often(like me....I use the IR BTW). I would not do this myself if am not familar with brakes and today's ABS systems, take it to a proffesional!
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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Default brakes

I have had SS lines on my vert for some time now and no codes. I would recommend a good box socket wrench and a 3-5 lb hand held sledge hammer for the caliper bolts. They are really on there and with a couple of good whacks against the side of the wrench they loosen up enough to be taken out easily, and you skip the skinned knuckles.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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Luckly I will have the help from a guy that knows a little more about the brake system than I do. This project is a great excuse for more tools.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette_47E
All good tips....

I will have my son wear his ear muffs during the work.

"ear muffs" thats awsome!
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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I'm far from Arnold's size/strength being 22yrs old 5'10" and a buck fifty i simply placed my car on regular jack stands and got a regular breaker bar... which was about 18" long... the torque wrench i used to reinstall them was about 22" long which made things even more difficult - so PITA is right... but completely possible on jackstands... You may have to put yourself in some weird positions alongside the car to get enough weight on the bar... (and i will admit my shoulder was a little sore the next day from removing and tightening all these bolts at or over 100 lb-ft of torque..)

GL i just did mine last weekend and I LOVE how the Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors w/ Red calipers look now!!!


Dan
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:26 AM
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The last of the parts came in last night. The Brown Santa, because it's like Christmas everytime the UPS truck pulls up, delivered the ceramic pads and Mag red paint. Now all I have to do to finish the prep work is paint the hats of the rotors mag red, hit them with some high temp clear coat....and game on.

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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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Nuts,

My $79 Harbor Freight 3/8's takes them off no problem after being torqued to 125ft lbs with loctite.

I do it often.

Brakes are easy, not sure what the voodo behind them is. Fluid pushes the pads. If you learn a bit about how the system works you should avoid any problems and make sure you TEST the car before driving it, keep it slow enough that you can either use the park brake or put it in a gear and shut the car off.

Once you learn to do it its a 5 minute job for pads, 10-15 for rotors.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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I was reading a few other posts too...whats this i hear about having a tougher time getting the rear rotors off due to the e brake???
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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OK, finally finished the job. But I think they turned out looking pretty good. A little impact engineering here and there...and they are on. I also painted the rotor hats with color matching paint, after a few coats of silver heat paint.








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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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looking good
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LF97C5Vette
I'm far from Arnold's size/strength being 22yrs old 5'10" and a buck fifty i simply placed my car on regular jack stands and got a regular breaker bar... which was about 18" long... the torque wrench i used to reinstall them was about 22" long which made things even more difficult - so PITA is right... but completely possible on jackstands... You may have to put yourself in some weird positions alongside the car to get enough weight on the bar... (and i will admit my shoulder was a little sore the next day from removing and tightening all these bolts at or over 100 lb-ft of torque..)

GL i just did mine last weekend and I LOVE how the Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors w/ Red calipers look now!!!


Dan
When I did my rotors, I had the car up on stands and pushed against the breaker bar with my feet......rotors and calipers look GREAT BTW!!!!!
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