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I just got my NX express system together and now ready to install. I've put systems in older cars but I just need some advice on the C5's. First, which is better...run the nitrous line from the back to the front all underneath the car or run the line underneath the trim panels inside the car on the passenger side. I assume that the inside trim panels have retainer clips underneath that you have to pop out in order to remove the panels seeing how there isn't any screws on the outside of the panels. I just didn't want to go prying on the plastic without knowing. Second, it looks like the logical place for the solenoids is on the radiator shroud (might as well poke more holes in it since I already have one BIG one for the Vortex breather :D ). Is this where most of you are mounting them :confused: And lastly, I was thinking of having a momentary switch that I manually push for the nitrous shot. I know most are using a WOT switch located either under the accelerator pedal or up on the engine top side but my thinkin is that if I nail it from a dead stop, I'm going to sit there and burn up my runcraps while the 1/4 mile ticker just keeps ticking away. It makes more since to me to punch it (without nitrous), let it shift into second, then hit the gas(nitrous). (A4 tranny :rolleyes: ) You can't do that if you have a WOT switch rigged. I like the idea of having everything concealed as I am designing my own switch panel for the ashtray compartment. Obviously, my idea with the trigger switch is not going to be too concealing though. Any suggestions??? Thanks for any replys :cheers:
I was going to run it through the frame rail and then up under the battery. But I decided on drilling a hole in the firewall and running it through it and then right next to the passenger seat and then back into the bottle. You can concel it, but I have not done so yet.
My solenoids are mounted on a special bracket that TNT makes that screws into the two bolt holes on the intake pass. side right behind the TB. If I did have the bracket then I would probably mount them on the shroud or fornt frame.
IMO I would not use a push button switch. If you get slippery and the PCM starts closing the throttle when you have it floored you are screwed. Or if you leave traction control on and you floor it, but the computer closes it you are screwed.
I use a RPM window switch and a TPS switch. You have to splice the wire from the TPS switch into the TPS wires on the side of the TB. Not hard at all just a lil blue wire I believe. The RPM switch goes into your PCM. It was #35 slot or the whie wire on the "blue" PCM, the one right in front of you when you take off the panel. This is on a '98 cannot say for certain what another year it is, but probably the same. My RPM switch comes on at 3000 rpm and off at 5600. So for my NOS to activate it has to be above 3000 rpm and below 5600 and the TP must be 90% or greater (I turned the screw down a lil). I took off the FPSS as I have heard to many problems were asscoiated with them.
I just wouldn't want push switch. I mean what if you get a lil sidways and then throw down the switch and it catches on something and stays open, you will be toast. :eek: :eek:
I think the TPS switch is the best because it will only let you go when you and the computer agree. With a floor mounted switch if you leave the traction control on accidently and floor the PCM will close that throttle, but you won't know and again (my word for the day I guess) will be toast :eek:
As far as running the lines, I found a great spot today to run the lines. I took off the rear tire, (driver side), and removed fenderwell( about 6 screws), ran the line inside the body panel down at the bottom of the car. The line goes over the fenderwell, then there are some vent holes under the carpet to get to the rear side light, i ran the line through there. (100 % No drilling). Then under carpet to middle compartment, which houses bottle. The line comes out under the hood near the windshield washer fluid container (Below). I havent installed the solenoid or the RPM switch or the nozzle, just got the lines ran and bottle installed. Prolly will hook up the rest tomorrow. The solenoid and the nozzle is the hard part tho
Thanks for the advice. Do you have trouble with spinouts from a dead stop? I still think you would lose a lot of time there at the start from spinning with the N20 kicking on. If you try to ease into it at the beginning and then floor it from say a 30 mph roll to kick the N20 in, you would still have a spin problem going into second I would think. This is in an automatic so I'm sure there are different launching techniques compared to a standard. BTW, is the PCM you're talking abou that the window switch splices into located in the footwell area on the passenger side or is it the one located underneath the battery?