Does your A/C work? Do you have any codes. The hoses go to A/C and Air Pump relay. You may be able to see but not reach with the passenger door open and looking from there.

 

Well, the A/C seems to work okay, and no related history or current codes on the DIC. If this is not related, I'm hoping the "12 white wires" mentioned in niskybrat's post might be the answer, but I have looked thouroughly an have not been able to locate that bundle. I am trying to avoid a 40 mph, 1 hour drive to the dealer to pay $500 for an easy fix. Man I miss driving this car... I appreciate all of everybody's input, we are definately starting to narrow this down. jwalton, any word on the APP sensor?

 

I apologize for not finding out what the service manager meant by the bundle of 12 white wires located near the right front wheel well but as it happens I've been at work longer than I want to be and have not gotten back to the dealer/service center yet. All my codes dealt with the APP system (pedal) and once the lose/disconnecting wire was found and re-connected the "Fast Bastard" stopped throwing codes and drives like it should, fast and beautiful. I'll call the manager back and see if he can be a little more specific. Update later.

 

Thanks!!!! I'm looking forward to find out where those 12 white wires are located exactly.

 

Hey niskybrat, any word yet? I really don't want to take this to the dealer if it something I can tackle on my own. Please let me know. Thanks for the extra effort!

 

Sorry to be a pest, but any word yet on the location of the 12 white wires. Thanks again!

 

Okay, just back from Carlisle Corvette weekend.....there had to be 10,000 of those babies all over the fairgrounds. Anyway, my problems were at the PCM (Power Control Module) where the wire harnesses plugged into it. RH wheel well, if you have the 2001 manuals it's book 2 of 3 page 6-601 for the diagram and pages 6-791, DTC P1275 that goes through the steps to diagnose.....and page 6-905, gives more info on repairs. But again my issue was that the connections behind the wire harness plug was lose and causing an intermittent failure signal to be sent which caused the "Reduce Engine Power" to show up and actually slowed me down so that I had to pull over and restart the Fast Bastard.....if this dosen't help I don't know what else to tell you, good luck.
nsikybrat

 

Thanks! I am attempting this fix tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed, otherwise, it's a trip to the dealer

 

Car is back up and running!!! And the fix was easier than I thought it would be. I checked those 12 white wires and they were connected properly, but as I was putting the battery back on to test the car again, I noticed that the negative battery terminal was corroded and the negative wire attachment barely contacted the battery once hooked up, so I cleaned it off, adjusted the negative wire connection and the car has been doing fine for a few days now, knock on wood. Thanks for all your help. It seems that the the common problem is a grounding issue, and everybody might have a different source, so if somebody has the same problem, CHECK EVERYTHING.

 

First of all, thanks to everyone who helped out with suggestions and things to look out for.

About a month ago, I involved my mechanic and good friend to help me troubleshoot the electrical system with knowledge and talent far beyond my own. As it turns out, the APP Sensor was the culprit. It took him a while, but the the throttle in just the right position, he could get his meters to register the goofy voltage spikes/dropouts that were triggering the ECU. One new accelerator pedal later and I'm all good.

Thanks again.

 

Glad to hear it is fixed !

 

I have the exact same problem with my 99 C5. Not sure if y'all experience the same thing but when I get the "reduced engine power" message, my stereo and CD player turn off as well

 

I had the same problem. It was saying reduced engine power and would turn over but not start. I was able to get it started by: removing fuses 16 and 23, disconnecting the battery cables then holding them together for 10-15 seconds, then reconnecting the battery cables, putting the fuses back in, then turning the key to on but not starting the engine, removing the wiring harness from the throttle body for 10 seconds then replacing it, then the engine started! However now it has a really rough idle and has stalled and now I'm back to square one where it says "reduced engine power". WTF!!! Does anyone know where I should go from here???

 

You should start your own thread and post your codes. Pull the codes using the dic. Here is the link that describes how it is done.
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

 

Hey, I almost forgot about this issue with my C5 Z06 but to follow up what we finally found out was the root of all my code issues was: There was a lose connection inside the wire harness to my Right side head lights. It took the tech off and on about 3 weeks to locate it...they made a deal with me that if they couldn't find the problem it was no cost to me but if they did they would call me and quote me a price to fix. As it turned out the bill came to $90.00 (2007 money..I think). So check out your wiring..the connection looked good with just a visual but when they did a closer inspection one wire was just a little short and kept popping in and out of it's male connector...now how would anyone know that? It's been 5 years and no problems ...still have the Z and drive it daily

 

Pita tag

 

I had the reduced power issue also. Was intermittent. Sometimes twice a day and sometimes twice a month. Kept putting off the repair, this went on for over a year. So two months ago I replaced the Accelerator pedal position sensor (that was the code that was with the reduced power) and that was it! Not only is the reduced engine power trouble gone but the motor runs smoother and has more power.

 

I had the issue with "Reduced Engine Power" and turns out it was 2 bad grounds. Here is the write up from the mechanic, "The engine cranks overbut wont start when turning the key to on position the reduced engine power message comes on. Checked system had no communication on class 2 data line. Installed break out tool to seperate modules could communicate with all modules except EMC. REM oved ECM checked system had all 3 power lines and all 3 grounds. Load test all 6 lines with high beam bulb all check fine. Tested communication line from star connector to ecm ok. Load tested fine. No reason ECM should communicate. Called tech they wanted me to run new communication line from aldl connector to ECM and try to communicate. Did so still no communication. Thought maybe something taking down ECM on the sensor side. Unplugged all ENG sensors, injectors, coils, front of vehicle and rear. Retested still no communication and was not able to talk to passenger door module or remote lock module. Removed all communication lines at both star connectors and retested was able to communicate again with all but ECM. Tested all 160 lines coming out of PCM for short to ground or battery all checked fine. Called tech again told no idea, I had done everything they suggested. Tried unplugging remote door lock and passenger door module to see if i could talk to ECM and still was unable to. Reassembled remote door lock and passenger door module and all communication. By luck found rear chasis ground and main engine grounds not making good enough contact. Removed and cleaned both rear chasis ground and main engine ground and could finally talk to all modules. Cleared codes and reassembled vehicle." I hope this helps someone because it took a while to type!

 

Is there any way to disable this program. It comes on at unexpected times and the results can be frightening.