Thanks JR,

I have the dash out now and it sure looks like the passenger side actuator and the driver side actuator are inter-changeable. They have different part numbers on the labels but that just means the labels are different.

Besides the two actuators currently in the car, I happen to have two replacement actuators but both have the driver side part numbers. I am thinking I can put one on the driver side and one on the passenger side.

Any bets on this move?

Thanks, David

 

Well that didn't work....
Installed an 03 control head and I still get codes.

 

Maybe you did this already but if not..... Get the car running and turn on the a/c, pull up the codes with the a/c running, go to the HVAC codes and "reset" them. The a/c will stop running for 15 seconds or so and then will recalibrate itself and should end up back blowing cold air on you on the drivers side. The question is will it stay recalibrated. Hope this will help.

David

 

At this point I'm afraid I'm going to wear out the reset button... Last time it took 4 resets in a row to get the drivers side to blow sort of cool.
I always get the 2 codes and I have figured out that it blows cooler air when it's on re-circulate instead if fresh air.

I'm doing a rear end swap tomorrow so the AC has been put on hold for a week or so, then I'm going to order a new actuator and try it stock, and re-clock it if necessary.

 

Keep us posted; I'm chasing the same thing.

 

We just got done replacing the actuators in my son's '98 with dual-zone HVAC. We used the information found here in an attempt to re-index the driver's side actuator. Unfortunately, we found that the main plastic gear (the one that drives the door) was broken in several places and was beyond repair.
When we purchased the new actuator ($240.00 w/tax from the dealer) I noticed that it had been re-engineered. In the spirit of learning, I opened up the actuator and looked inside. What I found was the following:

1. The main drive gear is now 100% plastic with no metal hub.
2. The stops are now molded into the case cover.
3. The gear stop is now molded directly onto the gear inside the case.
4. The gear teeth now only go about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way around the outside of the gear.
5. The gear is now reinforced better due to the lack of extra teeth.

This is the same actuator that is now used in the late-model GM trucks.

This will sound like a complaint and I assure you that it is NOT!!

If you use the procedure shown in this thread for pulling the driver's side actuator and then find (as we did) that the passenger side actuator is also bad (another $240.00), you will have to pull the dash anyway. If you just start out by pulling the dash, it will save you about 3 or 4 hours depending on how agile you are under a dash. When you pull the dash, it gives you complete access to both actuators from above. This is important for a 56 year-old guy like me.

My recommendation would be to just pull the dash if you live in a hot climate (like Phoenix, AZ). There is a good chance that both actuators are fried from the heat.

The bottom line is: If you need to pull just the driver's side actuator, I would recommend this procedure. If you have any idea that you may have a problem (DIC Codes set for BOTH actuators) with both sides, swallow hard and pull the dash. Once it is off, it only takes an additional 5 to 10 minutes to remove the other actuator. This would have saved us about 4 hours.

 

lurk

 

lurk

 

 

I never did get around to ordering a new actuator, but I did go get the freon checked on Sat. and it was half a pound low. So we filled it with the proper amount and it seemed to be working fine....

Until Sunday morning when I found a puddle of oil under the compressor, yep it puked out all the good stuff. I'm going in Thursday to get it fixed.

 

I ended up buying a new actuator after trying to re-index the suspect one and it not resolving the issue. Put it in and the problem cleared.

 

I'm new to ownership of C5 and my 01 Z06 has the dual zone air. Now the problem is that I do not get any heat on the passenger side which has the wife a bit upset. Does this fit under this topic or another new one?

Thanks
Joel

Tampa FL

 

It most likely fits. Have you pulled the codes?

 

~Edit: I fixed the link, it should work now.~

Thats the same problem I had. Below is a link to the writeup I did on how to get to the passenger side actuator.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1561772

Best of luck and let us know if you have questions/problems.

Trevor

 

had the same problem... bought a new actuator and installed it. the new one doesn't do ANYTHING! i let it hang with just the electrical connector hooked to it... nothing. I just left it uninstalled and manually moved the door to "cold" ... i'll move it to "hot" this winter.

 

GreyGT-C,
You may have to do like I did, replace the AC control module (the climate controller) Rockauto has them for a real good price.
Be sure to order one for a 2001 or newer, they are supposed to have better electronics over the 98 you have in there now!

 

unfortunately the electonic gremlins still live in a lot of our beasts.....at least they are fun to drive...!

 

Hi all....I have had the exact same issue. Hot air on drivers side....cold air on passenger. Had my shop run their diagnostics...they said it was the actuator...just like this thread. So I took apart the car today...opened the actuator....all gears are perfect. Hooked it up to a power source and tested it...everything worked perfect. Proceeded to hook it back up...each step testing it with the HVAC control from hot to cold to hot....actuator works...door opens.

Basically...everything checks out....there are NO CODES.

Yet...still....the problem persists.

Stumped at this point....anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks

 

I just want to give a big thanks to JR_Vette. I was able to read his directions and diagnose my A/C problem. I had the codes, reset them it helped but it was still warmer on the driver side. I bought a kit to check and add freon and found it was low added and now all is good



Well so much for my fix the problem is back. I replaced the actuator and still have the problem and codes....any ideas of what to do now?