Reindexing HVAC actuators....
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Orange County California
ughhhh i've been waiting forever and today i finally did this (my prob was hot on drivers cool on passenger) and ended up buying and replacing the actuator...180 bucks Blah....but its still blowing hot on the drivers side and cool on the passengers!!!!!
I guess i just have ****ty luck...its gonna go into the dealership now...and probably cost a grand to fix (that seems to be what everything costs there)
I guess i just have ****ty luck...its gonna go into the dealership now...and probably cost a grand to fix (that seems to be what everything costs there)
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 8
From: Baton Rouge Louisiana
ughhhh i've been waiting forever and today i finally did this (my prob was hot on drivers cool on passenger) and ended up buying and replacing the actuator...180 bucks Blah....but its still blowing hot on the drivers side and cool on the passengers!!!!!
I guess i just have ****ty luck...its gonna go into the dealership now...and probably cost a grand to fix (that seems to be what everything costs there)
I guess i just have ****ty luck...its gonna go into the dealership now...and probably cost a grand to fix (that seems to be what everything costs there)
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Try this:
Check the HVAC module for DTCs. If you have any, turn the HVAC OFF, clear he DTCs. When you clear the DTCs the actuators should cycle. When here done cycling, turn he HVAC ON and check fo DTCs again. I had to do this three times and after that,,mine has been great for over a year.
If you don have any DTCs, have the R-134 level checked. If it is LOW, it can cause this issue.
BC
BC
Check the HVAC module for DTCs. If you have any, turn the HVAC OFF, clear he DTCs. When you clear the DTCs the actuators should cycle. When here done cycling, turn he HVAC ON and check fo DTCs again. I had to do this three times and after that,,mine has been great for over a year.
If you don have any DTCs, have the R-134 level checked. If it is LOW, it can cause this issue.
BC
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Yep,,,,,thats the one giving you heart burn!!! (B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND) Was that
the one you replaced???
Do that procedure and see if it resolves the issue. Like I said,,,,it may take a few trys to ge it to work correctly.
If it fails to reset, check the wiring and connector for damage.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Orange County California
Yep thats the one i changed yesterday...took me all day and 180 bucks and still blows hot air
Im gonna go run outside and verify the code, for some reason i remember being depressed yesterday because it showed a right side code after the fix...
and still blows hot air Im gonna go run outside and verify the code, for some reason i remember being depressed yesterday because it showed a right side code after the fix...
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Orange County California
ok my mistake, it was doing B0361 and blowing hot on the driver side and cold on the passenger side, so i changed the driver side actuator yesterday and now its showing B0367!!
...and still blowing warm on drivers side and cool on passenger's
...and still blowing warm on drivers side and cool on passenger's
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 162
Likes: 8
From: Gardner KS
If I do a reset of the codes; it blows Ice Cold air immediately (so I know it's some damper somewhere) Goes hot and then goes warm again. All this with the actuator removed and damper manually opened by hand... ARGH!
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Lewisville Texas
I just did this whole procedure and nothing is fixed. If I do a reset of the codes; it blows Ice Cold air immediately then Goes hot and then goes warm again. Now what? Do i replace the HVAC with the 2001+ unit?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Orange County California
Just to followup for anyone reading, i did most of this stuff, nothing worked, car still throws codes and whatnot...and recharging the system actually fixed the problem
So, i cant explain it, but i am a believer now...even if it throws codes, it is possible that the problem can be fixed with a recharge...be smart and try that FIRST regardless of what you read on here, its cheap and if it works you'll save a headache and craploads of money...
<no offense to the great contributors who put this thread and others together, just wanted to share my experience...sometimes the simplest solution is the best solution>
So, i cant explain it, but i am a believer now...even if it throws codes, it is possible that the problem can be fixed with a recharge...be smart and try that FIRST regardless of what you read on here, its cheap and if it works you'll save a headache and craploads of money...
<no offense to the great contributors who put this thread and others together, just wanted to share my experience...sometimes the simplest solution is the best solution>
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 66
Likes: 8
From: Jacksonville Florida
Just went through this also. Cold on pass, warm on drivers. I removed the drivers actuator altogether and manually turned the door to cold. Not much better. Turns out I had a bad compressor. AC systems rebuild was done. The snowballs flew outta the drivers side. I put the actuator back and wham! It all works like it should. I still get a HVAC code, but both sides work cold to hot and back again.
Bottom line, the AC system properly charged and working must be confirmed before you replace the actuator for no reason.
Bottom line, the AC system properly charged and working must be confirmed before you replace the actuator for no reason.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Lewisville Texas
[QUOTE=chate;1570476144]Just to followup for anyone reading, i did most of this stuff, nothing worked, car still throws codes and whatnot...and recharging the system actually fixed the problem
So, i cant explain it, but i am a believer now...even if it throws codes, it is possible that the problem can be fixed with a recharge...be smart and try that FIRST regardless of what you read on here, its cheap and if it works you'll save a headache and craploads of money...
This was the first thing i tried and it didnt help. So then looked on here and found this post. My left actuator gear was broke so i guess ill get a new one anyway. If that dont work im screwed! LOL
So, i cant explain it, but i am a believer now...even if it throws codes, it is possible that the problem can be fixed with a recharge...be smart and try that FIRST regardless of what you read on here, its cheap and if it works you'll save a headache and craploads of money...
This was the first thing i tried and it didnt help. So then looked on here and found this post. My left actuator gear was broke so i guess ill get a new one anyway. If that dont work im screwed! LOL
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: Westport CT
My $.02 on why there was very little airflow exiting my driver's side floor vent, right side only...
The careless dealer tech messed up when re-installing the console's center stack (a service repair unrelated to HVAC), and consequently, upon closer inspection, I noticed the moron left carpeting blocking the floor vent. Doh!
Also, if your ac isn't blowing that cold, the radiator and condenser core fins might be clossged up with debris, leaves, sand etc.
As someone said above, sometimes, it's the simplist, cheapest fix that could be the solution to the issue.
The careless dealer tech messed up when re-installing the console's center stack (a service repair unrelated to HVAC), and consequently, upon closer inspection, I noticed the moron left carpeting blocking the floor vent. Doh!
Also, if your ac isn't blowing that cold, the radiator and condenser core fins might be clossged up with debris, leaves, sand etc.
As someone said above, sometimes, it's the simplist, cheapest fix that could be the solution to the issue.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia pa
I'm having the same problem warm to HOT air coming out the drivers side. I have not gotten any codes. I have heard what sounds like something blowing in side the vent from time to time but it's gone away and the air has been cold. I had the car in the shop having some work done today and they disconnected the battery and when I went to pick it up thats when this started. Should I try the freon first?
Thanks
Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: South Sweden
I'm having the same problem warm to HOT air coming out the drivers side. I have not gotten any codes. I have heard what sounds like something blowing in side the vent from time to time but it's gone away and the air has been cold. I had the car in the shop having some work done today and they disconnected the battery and when I went to pick it up thats when this started. Should I try the freon first?
Thanks
Thanks
If it's doesn't do the trick it' the "dash out procedure".....
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 5
***** TRY THIS EASY FIX BEFORE TAKING ANYTHING APART -IT WORKED FOR ME ****
Ok, I had hot air on the drivers side today when I should have A/C, then read some of this post, and the went out to check the DIC. I found the code "B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range". I reset the code, and still had hot air blowing, so I did it again, after turning the control **** all the way to the hottest direction and now I have nice cold a/c again. I hope this helps someone. So, my immediate conclusion is that it does self calibrate, but that it is important to have the control **** in the right spot, and I figure by moving it more towards the hot side, I am calibrating it onto some more fresh teeth within the actuator. Thank you for all of your hard work and great posts! It made fixing my dual zone HVAC take less than 20 minutes!!!
Also, I don't know it it matters, but when I reset the actuator code the second time with the temp control **** on full hot, I did it with the motor running and the A/C on.... Thanks again everyone!
I referenced this site to reset the code in the DIC: http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
Ok, I had hot air on the drivers side today when I should have A/C, then read some of this post, and the went out to check the DIC. I found the code "B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range". I reset the code, and still had hot air blowing, so I did it again, after turning the control **** all the way to the hottest direction and now I have nice cold a/c again. I hope this helps someone. So, my immediate conclusion is that it does self calibrate, but that it is important to have the control **** in the right spot, and I figure by moving it more towards the hot side, I am calibrating it onto some more fresh teeth within the actuator. Thank you for all of your hard work and great posts! It made fixing my dual zone HVAC take less than 20 minutes!!!
Also, I don't know it it matters, but when I reset the actuator code the second time with the temp control **** on full hot, I did it with the motor running and the A/C on.... Thanks again everyone!
I referenced this site to reset the code in the DIC: http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
Last edited by c7pilot; Sep 1, 2009 at 12:56 AM.