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Thinking About Lowering My C5

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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 09:34 PM
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Default Thinking About Lowering My C5

Somewhere I remember hearing that if your C5 has MSRC, F55 option, that it should not be lowered. I was considering dropping it about 1 inch on all four corners without the use of any adapters, but am now wondering if this would be adviseable. Thanks in advance for any comments.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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I've never heard that.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 01:22 AM
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I am wondering about the same thing, from what i have read the shocks bottom out and you cant lower it
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 02:30 AM
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Here -- read all about it:

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm

For your purposes F45/F55, same difference.

I checked with automotive author and C5 guru Hib Halverson who said: "Both Delphi and the Corvette Team people told me that F45 has a problem with lowered cars and increased damping, i.e.: the car rides more stiffly." and "I think you can use the spring jack screws to lower the car as much as that will allow. Then road test the car, if you don't like the ride, simply crank up the adjustment again." Followed by: "There won't be damage to the shocks. What I was told is that the F45 system "sees" the decrease in ride height and sometimes increases damping during normal driving where ordinarily there would be no increase." Keep in mind that F45 cars have base springs. Softly sprung cars may have more of a problem with lowering than will Z51s.
Hib Halverson is pretty knowledgeable.

Cheerio!
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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My rubber piece under my front bumper already scrapes everything! I wouldn't want to even know what It would be like lowering It any more....It would probably scrape going over a pot hole LoL...I see your point though...There's like a 3-4" gap between the top of the wheel and the fender, so It would look better lowered an Inch or 2.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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My F55 is down as low as it will go on stock bolts. No difference in ride quality. Be sure to get the car aligned though, after dropping it. The alignment will change and that will effect handling and ride. Getting the alignment done after dropping it will restore the ride and handling.

yes, the air dam underneath scrapes more, but yes, it is hinged so other than some noise it's no biggy. If it bugs you enough take the two bolts out, run it across a table saw, and put it back on.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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I have some thoughts from the great article @ http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm

1. It is easier to work with the wheels off. I did one wheel at a time and still got the same results.

2. The clockwise rotation in the back is to *loosen* and lower the threads through the leaf spring. A good hint is to "drop" the rear suspension away from the leaf spring and to "tighten" the front suspension into the leaf spring.

3. Make sure you use a floor jack or something to support the lower A-arm when you try to remove the lower shock bolts and move the front shocks.

4. It looks like the front end "toes out" when complete and lowered so get your front end alignment done. I got 1/2 inch out of the front and about 1 inch out of the rear.

Thanks, Mike
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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My biggest regret about lowering is that I didn't get rocker rails and front end rollers before lowering!

Other than that it's great! I did end up taking the air dam corner pieces and trimming them about an inch. I figure the middle will scrape down to where it needs to be eventually

-Rich
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