I just got done adjusting the ride height on my 99 along with new wheels. I lowered the front ok, no issues there, it settled right now, obviously lower. The rear on the other hand.....I left only about 2-3 threads showing through on the stock bolts, but it looks like it RAISED the rear end up. So I actually crawled my 230lb frame into the hatch area an bounded around a little to get it to settle. Nope, still looks like I put a frame lift in there.

You back the bolt off on the rear right, I.E. make less threads show through the top retaining nut.

This is on an F45 suspension, and power has NOT been put back to the car yet if that matters.

 

I already drag the front end on even a small incline or ramp and wonder if you have a wholesaler who can provide replacement spoilers at a good price. If you do, post it here so if some of us decide to do the same as you did we'll have a low cost parts source.

Charlie

 

Where did that come from.

 

Did you check the height right after you lowered it back down? If you did then it's just not settled from being jacked up. You need to drive it for several weeks to let the suspension settle. Then have it realigned.

 

Brentwood TN.

Dude lowered the front end of his car, wonder how often he will have to replace the spoiler? If he has a good cheap source, I may drop my front end too.

Charlie

 

I figured it would take a little driving, but it just seemed abnormall high to me. I'm not a lightweight guy and had all of my weight in there and it dind't seem to make a difference. I posted pics in c5 Gen of the wheels and I guess it's starting to settle already because it's not as bad as it was. The fronts weren't an issue. Just a couple of shoves downward and they were obviously lower.

Yet somehow.........I think I'm going to end up seeing it even lower at some point.

 

Talk about a hi-jacking.

 

Wow the spoiler request was really random... but if you're talking about the air dam pieces, they're like $10 a piece. Even from the dealer.

In regards to lowering the back, if it doesn't settle, get longer bolts.

-Rich

 

Talk about no sense of humor. Read what I said and the context and manner in which I said it. As for the front spoiler or air dam or whatever one may choose to call it (many call it a spoiler), if I can get the pieces for $10 I'll drop the front end another inch or two. Here is something typical of what I have found. For $99 a pop, I'll leave the front end where it is.

97-04 C5 / Z06 Corvette GM Front Replacement Spoiler

These Urethane Spoilers give your Corvette a factory-fresh appearance and restore proper air flow through your radiator, solving many cooling problems.

GM factory replacement part.
PRICE: $99.99

 

It appears that there is more ‘lowering’ from the front than from the back when you lower on stock bolts. I left 1 or 2 threads on the rear bolts. And left only1/4 of turn on front. I see on picture that the front is lowered more than the rear. Maybe I should have not have left any thread on the rear.

Initially, after 200 miles, I found only a small change (5/8). But after a week, I settle down and I got 1 inch on my Z51.

You need to drive your car before you can see a difference.

High-jacking note: What I now like is when I brake and I hit a small bump I ear the front spoiler scraping. Ok, in my head, I really feel I drive a race car……

 

I've got a lowering kit for sale in the for sale section. $20 shipped.

 

Okay, so to lower the front end do you tighten the bolt or loosen the bolt? Cause I just did this and I don't think it changed the height.

 

It's a matter of perspective (since the bolt has a "normal" head down below where the bushing is, and a machined tip at the other end that can be turned with a 10mm wrench). If you are accessing it from the top (see image below), turn counter-clockwise to lower.

 

Lowering: OK I'm not 100% on the standard C5 suspension but I know from lowering my Z06 that the best way to get results is by getting the "lowering kit" from either a source on here or from "wcc". it consists of 2 lengthened bolts for the rear suspension that allow you to safely lower the rear down w/o possible running the nut off the end of the bolt. and for the front, if cranking down the adjuster bolt on the bushing mount dosn't do it enough for you, you may have to modify the bushing and or remove it. Problem with removing it is road vibration (more for show). I had the bushings reduced by 2/3 on mine and then the lowering bolts for the back. I got down 1 + 3/5" in the front & 1 + 2/3" in the back to level it out. the ride quality is almost the same unless you hit a BIG dip in the road then you can feel the stopers bottom out. but other then that it's perfect.
As far as the air dam in front goes yaa forget about it that thing is going to scrape on EVERYTHING as it's becomes less then an 1 1/2 off the ground at this point. but hey their cheap and EZ to replace so let it scrape. Now driveways are interesting and you'll need to learn a new approach angle but other then this with the bolts in the rear you can also adjsut your ride height as need be by simply screwing in or screwig out the rear bolts to change the pitch of the front to back of the car.

 

dont worry about the air dam, its flexible. its designed to do that. been lowered for 3 years and ive slammed it many times over an over and it still looks fine. You have to adjust your driving when it comes to speed bumps and steep inclines. go on an angle.

ps- lower the rear where 2 threads are exposed. so when your in it, the car sits level with the front.

 

The air dam is flexible and cheap to replace. Sounds bad when it scrapes, yes. If it bothers you that much take it off, run it across a table saw and take half an inch off of it. Problem solved.

As far as the O.P., when I dropped mine, yes, it did raise up some. Does every time I jack it up. Hopefully you took fender to tire measurements before you lowered it. Take it for a ride. Then measure again. Compare. Did it settle?

The biggest part of what I see in your post is that You mentioned that the car has not been powered, and is on an F45. The shocks are magnetic and need power to valve right, as I recall. The shocks are likely holding your car up. My F55 does the same.

Power it, drive it. Then look.

Also remember that it will settle in even more over time, in a week or so of driving it will be even lower as the suspension settles in.

 

Thanks, I was wrenching from the top so I was doing it counter-clockwise. I couldn't turn them both equally so the ride height is not even and the drop is not enough.

Unfortunately I forgot to measure before I started so all I know is the measurement now is 27" on R side front, 26.75" on L side front, 26,625" R side rear, 26.5 L Rear side rear. Can anybody tell me what the stock height is?

I have the bolt kit for the rear, but just used the stock bolts of the front. Where can I get a bold kit for the front?

 

For anyone that has lowered the front using the stock bolts and cutting the bushing; how much of the bushing did you cut and what was the drop?