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Hope somebody has an answer for this one. My 2000 MN6 makes a clicking noise from the left rear wheel when you get on and off the gas. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Hope somebody has an answer for this one. My 2000 MN6 makes a clicking noise from the left rear wheel when you get on and off the gas. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Is it a clicking noise, or more like a stick/release pop when you load and unload the drivetrain?
Try this link:
I had a popping noise that showed up when I went from first to reverse, or vise-versa, and also sometimes when I let off the gas in second. I solved the problem by backing off the axle nut with the wheel off, pushing the axle in about 1/4" to expose the CV joint to bearing hub and spline on the inside of the hub, and swabbing some light oil on the surface where the CV hub pulls into the back of the wheel hub bearing. Some people just back off the axle nut and try to spray lube on the spline, but the lube has to work its way to the other end of the spline to do any good. See comments by "3rd Childhood" on the link for additional information.
Only does it when I get on and off the gas. Its not a clunk it almost sounds like the seat but it's def in the left rear wheel.
When you mentioned the seat, sometimes I hear a click when I change directions that I think comes from the seat belt latching mechanism. If you can definitely tell it is from the wheel, then my first post is a good place to start, and it only costs a little time to check.
I had a popping noise that showed up when I went from first to reverse, or vise-versa, and also sometimes when I let off the gas in second. I solved the problem by backing off the axle nut with the wheel off, pushing the axle in about 1/4" to expose the CV joint to bearing hub and spline on the inside of the hub, and swabbing some light oil on the surface where the CV hub pulls into the back of the wheel hub bearing. Some people just back off the axle nut and try to spray lube on the spline, but the lube has to work its way to the other end of the spline to do any good. See comments by "3rd Childhood" on the link for additional information.
I tried this to but I kept hearing the clicking/creaking noise after lubing the splines. I then traced the clicking to the rear sway bar bushings. After loosing the bolts and lubing the bushings on both sides I haven't had any more of the clicking/creaking. I used Valvoline synthetic grease I bought from a local auto parts store. Very easy fix.
Hope somebody has an answer for this one. My 2000 MN6 makes a clicking noise from the left rear wheel when you get on and off the gas. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
My car did this, it sounded like a rock stuck in the tire kind of click. Dis it at accel and decel. It turned out to be loose axle nuts, just behind the rim. Chevy re torqued them and that was that. You can check it your self pretty easily.
My car did this, it sounded like a rock stuck in the tire kind of click. Dis it at accel and decel. It turned out to be loose axle nuts, just behind the rim. Chevy re torqued them and that was that. You can check it your self pretty easily.
That's exactly what it sounds like. I'm going to pull the wheel on Monday when I'm off. I let you guys know how it turns out.
That's exactly what it sounds like. I'm going to pull the wheel on Monday when I'm off. I let you guys know how it turns out.
Thanks again for the help
So you will be prepared, the axle nut takes a 33mm socket and is torqued to 118 ft-lbs.
The only place I found a metric socket that big was at an auto parts store (o'Reilley's). They had large sockets just for drive axles.
My car did this, it sounded like a rock stuck in the tire kind of click. Dis it at accel and decel. It turned out to be loose axle nuts, just behind the rim. Chevy re torqued them and that was that. You can check it your self pretty easily.
Retorqued the axle nut on drivers side no more clicking!
Hardest part was finding a 33 mm socket. Thanks guys for all your help!
Retorqued the axle nut on drivers side no more clicking!
Hardest part was finding a 33 mm socket. Thanks guys for all your help!
I am surprised that just retorquing the nut got rid of the noise.
I had my axle nut loose a couple of times to try to get the splines cleaned up, and retorqued each time, and it was not until I got the inner hub/bearing surface cleaned and lubed that I got rid of the noise.
Just curious if you backed the axle nut off before you retorqued, or if you just tightened the nut down from where it was and found it to be loose?
I am surprised that just retorquing the nut got rid of the noise.
I had my axle nut loose a couple of times to try to get the splines cleaned up, and retorqued each time, and it was not until I got the inner hub/bearing surface cleaned and lubed that I got rid of the noise.
Just curious if you backed the axle nut off before you retorqued, or if you just tightened the nut down from where it was and found it to be loose?
I just torqued it from where it was..I was suprised because it only moved a very little bit.
I went to the local shop and told them to grab the Snap On guy the next time he swung by and get me one. I am sure you can find a cheaper solution though, cause it cost me $50.
To bring this back from the dead. Where the heck can I find a 33 MM socket..I found one but it is a spline drive and can't find and adapter.
THANKS!
I also have a 2000 and had the clinking sound from the drivers side rear tire area. I read this string of posts, printed it out, drove over to Brake Master, had them loosen the axle nut and squirt some penetrant oil behind it, gave the guy $5 and no more clinking.
David in Glendale AZ
Last edited by pdgourno; Sep 25, 2006 at 10:22 PM.
I went to the local shop and told them to grab the Snap On guy the next time he swung by and get me one. I am sure you can find a cheaper solution though, cause it cost me $50.
I got one at O'Reillys Auto Parts for about $10. They had several large 1/2" drive sockets that fit most cars with front wheel drive axles.
I got one at O'Reillys Auto Parts for about $10. They had several large 1/2" drive sockets that fit most cars with front wheel drive axles.
It seems I am in too "rich" (realistically it's stuck-up) of an area for a real parts/tools/gear head shop to exist. I spent half a day looking for the socket and didn't have any luck. I even hit multiple schmucks, napa, and autozone stores where their counter lackeys couldn't even find what I was looking for in their catalogs. Thank god for a friendly local shop and snap-on representative.
Interesting thread and, I thought I had the
same potential prob: driver side rear wheel
was "clicking" very loudly and was wheel rotation
speed dependent.
I squeezed myself under the left rear and noticed
that the two "cables" that run along the underbody,
and connect into the left rear wheel hub, were both
rubbing slightly against the stock wheel as it rotated.
Those two encased cables are the mech. parking brake
cable and the wheel sensor for the OBC, but I could
be wrong with that id...
The black plastic "cable carriers" that allow the "spread"
of those two cables and their parallel return path to the
rotor hub/brake assembly, were out of place it appears.
This caused those cables to rub against the rotating
wheel and the oem/orig wheel weight would catch and
cause that clicking noise...
I had a left rear axle drip/leak repaired under the GMPP
ext warr. a monthish ago, and I suspect the "tech" did
not reroute those cables properly; thus the noise.
I simply tied them off and away from the rear wheel
and will do a better fix or, have a local shop do it
when I get coolant/brake fluid and oil changed, soon.
Thanks for your patient read...glad I found the "reason"
for that clicking; it was driving me crazy.
Best Regards,
David