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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Default KNOW IT ALLS APPLY HERE!!! (Take the Quiz)

I have a 1998 ls1 c5 with ported and polished patriot heads with dual springs, hardened p-rods, and 62cc combustion chamber.

I just spun a rod and need to rebuild my bottom end.

My question is whether or not I should replace the bottom end with stock
LS1 parts, or should I go for a 383 stroker kit instead. With the stock bottom end I was running around 10:7:1 compression. If I go with the 383 stroker, I know my compression will increase but by how much. I live in Ca and all I can get is 91 octane on pump gas. I have heard of people with 11:1 CR or slightly higher running 91 octane and say, "it is all in the tune." IS THIS TRUE? I need some input. I do not want to have to put race gas in my car because it is my daily driver.

I need some input. Thanks

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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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I would go with the 383 if money is an issue. Otherwise I would build a 402. I dont know if the compression will change or not with a stroker, I guess it depends on the pistons you get.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackal
I would go with the 383 if money is an issue. Otherwise I would build a 402. I dont know if the compression will change or not with a stroker, I guess it depends on the pistons you get.
the 383($3.9k) will cost very close to the same as a 402 ($4k), if anyone disagrees please let me know I would love to find a low cost 383 (around $3k)

you can get forged 347 shortblocks (stock crank forged rods, pistons, no core) for less than $3k, it is going to cost you aroung 1500 for forged parts and about 1000 for machine work, you supply the core. to me if going 347 then just get a short block.

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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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Im by NO means a tuner but, yes,,,,its allllll in the tune. You can adjust the timing through out the RPM range to compenste for what grade fuel you have to work with! GM has options in the timing tables that allow the car to operate on lower octane fuel if you have to use it. So, build the engine that you want and get a GOOD TUNER to make it work for you!

BC
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by C5Stunner
I have a 1998 ls1 c5 with ported and polished patriot heads with dual springs, hardened p-rods, and 62cc combustion chamber.

I just spun a rod and need to rebuild my bottom end.

My question is whether or not I should replace the bottom end with stock
LS1 parts, or should I go for a 383 stroker kit instead. With the stock bottom end I was running around 10:7:1 compression. If I go with the 383 stroker, I know my compression will increase but by how much. I live in Ca and all I can get is 91 octane on pump gas. I have heard of people with 11:1 CR or slightly higher running 91 octane and say, "it is all in the tune." IS THIS TRUE?
Since you are obviously a performance enthusiast, I can't see replacing the bottom end with stock parts unless $$ is an issue.

I have an LS2-based 402 stroker (about the same order of magnitude cid difference as an LS1-based 382/383) w/ 11:1 cr, and it runs fine on California 91 octane. I believe that it IS all in the tune.

GL!
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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Stroker, enough said...
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by C5Stunner
I have a 1998 ls1 c5 with ported and polished patriot heads with dual springs, hardened p-rods, and 62cc combustion chamber.

I just spun a rod and need to rebuild my bottom end.

My question is whether or not I should replace the bottom end with stock
LS1 parts, or should I go for a 383 stroker kit instead. With the stock bottom end I was running around 10:7:1 compression. If I go with the 383 stroker, I know my compression will increase but by how much. I live in Ca and all I can get is 91 octane on pump gas. I have heard of people with 11:1 CR or slightly higher running 91 octane and say, "it is all in the tune." IS THIS TRUE? I need some input. I do not want to have to put race gas in my car because it is my daily driver.

I need some input. Thanks

What I dont understand is, why do you think your CR will go up by running with a 383?? Just because your gonna run a 4" crank??
You have to replace the pistons anyways to compensate for the longer stroke don't you?? If you didnt, you'de be crazy for rebuilding the motor with stock pistons and rods. It would be no better than an OEM motor.

I say (If your strapped for cash) go with a 4" crank, diamond pistons, and eagle rods. This will give you a nice and stout forged 383.

If you've got extra cash, then go with a 402. But dont expect to get away with only and extra grand. becuase there are quite a few extra parts needed when building a stronger motor.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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Put the 11 or 12 to 1 heads on it and run E85. It is equivalent to about 108 octane.

Charlie
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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Given the same induction and exhaust (heads, cam, intake, etc.) a 383 will make similar power compared to the 402 (but do it a little higher in the curve) and make less peak TQ. Depending on traction available and presumably a street tire that could be a good thing. I think while the LS2 based engines represent good value, they still do in fact cost a little more and the swap is more involved as well assuming you want to retain your knock sensors and other things. You have to buy a new front cover, extend some wiring and also purchase a new valley pan. These are the little hidden costs and extra labor thats involved with the LS2 based swap.

Either one is a winner, but if your on a budget and want a cake install, and LS1/LS6 based 383 stroker is still very effective....ask me how I know....LOL

Tony M.

Last edited by Tony Mamo; Aug 25, 2006 at 11:23 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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Im a know it all, but I dont understand how you can spin a rod?
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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He said it was a 98... could have been oil starvation issues or just oil issues in general...
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Default Compression

American HP
Since the compression ratio is the ratio between the cylinder volume at down stroke as opposed to the volume at top stroke and the volume is greater with a longer stroke crank at down stroke the compression ratio is greater unless you dish or fly cut the pistons. In a stroker kit you can usually order the pistons to give you the ratio you want.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kpforce1
He said it was a 98... could have been oil starvation issues or just oil issues in general...
Ferrets was refering to the post "I spun a rod" instead of I spun a rod bearing, I think, maybe.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tiojames
Ferrets was refering to the post "I spun a rod" instead of I spun a rod bearing, I think, maybe.
Yeah i spun a rod bearing. Engine was 2.5 quarts low on oil.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo
Given the same induction and exhaust (heads, cam, intake, etc.) a 383 will make similar power compared to the 402 (but do it a little higher in the curve) and make less peak TQ. Depending on traction available and presumably a street tire that could be a good thing. I think while the LS2 based engines represent good value, they still do in fact cost a little more and the swap is more involved as well assuming you want to retain your knock sensors and other things. You have to buy a new front cover, extend some wiring and also purchase a new valley pan. These are the little hidden costs and extra labor thats involved with the LS2 based swap.

Either one is a winner, but if your on a budget and want a cake install, and LS1/LS6 based 383 stroker is still very effective....ask me how I know....LOL

Tony M.
again some one please point me to all of these cheap/cost effective 383 ls1's. every shop that i find that lists one they are all in the 4500 and up range. while you can get a 402 with all the needed conversion parts for around 4300.

More Than Zero
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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Dude...go with the 402!!!
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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What kind of oil were you using?
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