Hopefully someone can help me with a problem I've been having with my headlights on my 2000 Coupe. Both headlights work on low and high beam. They'll open using the stalk switch but they will not close. There's no grinding or anything so I'm pretty sure its not the motor. Also the car makes a dinging noise when the driver door is opened as if the key has been left in the ignition, even though it hasn't. I know that the dinging noise is related to the headlight problem since when I remove the fuses for the headlight motors, the dinging goes away. I've replaced the headlight control module and that didn't solve the problem. Totally lost now. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jon

 

Check to see if you have voltage to the motor when you turn your headlights off. A simple multimeter should do fine. My guess is that you have no voltage to the motor. Do you have an BCM codes on the DIC?

This is the GM procedure. If you need help understanding it let me know..

Headlamp Doors Do Not Close
Headlight Doors Do Not Close Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Were you sent here from the Lighting Systems Diagnostic System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems

2
Turn the ignition switch off.
Turn the parking lamp switch on.
Do the parking lamps illuminate?
--
Go to Step 3
Go to Park, Tail and Side Marker Lamps Inoperative

3
Install a scan tool and go to the BCM input display.
Monitor the headlamp off switch status.
Turn the headlamps on and off.
Does the scan tool indicate the headlamp off switch inactive and active?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 6

4
Disconnect the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1.
Connect a DMM from connector C1 terminal D to ground.
Measure resistance to ground of circuit 150.
Is resistance within the specified values?
0-2 ohms
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 9

5
Connect a test light from the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1 terminal C to ground.
Turn the headlamp switch off.
Does the test light illuminate?
--
Go to Headlamp Doors Inoperative - One Door
Go to Step 10

6
Disconnect the headlamp switch connector C209.
Connect a DMM from the switch side connector C209 terminals Z to T.
Turn the headlamp switch to the off position.
Measure resistance through the headlamp off switch.
Is the resistance within specified values?
0-2 ohms
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

7
Repair the open or high resistance in circuit 306, between connector C209 and the underhood electrical center.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 11
--

8
Replace the headlamp switch. Refer to Multifunction Turn Signal Lever Replacement - On Vehicle .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 11
--

9
Repair the open or high resistance in circuit 150.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 11
--

10
Repair the open or high resistance in circuit 306, between the underhood electrical center and the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 11
--

11
Clear any DTCs which may have set. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Clearing .
Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
--
System OK
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

Thanks. I'll try that. Any other ideas?

 

My suspicion is the headlight switch is not making proper contact to close the lights.

Internal to the switch, there is a separate contact to PARK the lights up in the parking light position, then to close the doors when the switch is moved to OFF. That OFF position sends a ground signal to the headlight control module and I believe the BCM but it sounds like that's not happening (that's why you're hearing the chime when you open the door).

 

I'm having the same problem!

I'll keep yall posted.

D Moss

 

I have had the same problem for over a month. I have two other threads in the general section that might help. I currently have my whole dash apart and have removed the (light,turn signal, cruise ctrl. switch assembly). Is this the part you replaced and it didn't fix the problem. Or did you replace the part under the hood by the lights. thanks

 

this is the assembly I removed. As I was taking it apart the lights kept popping up and interior dinging and such. I hope this is the problem. I'm going to call my dealership and price one too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

 

I hate the f**king stock headlight motors .. assemblies .. accuation, but I have yet to find a fixed light option that I like the look of .... I have a hanger on the driver side yet again in mine ... will be messing with those when I get home for the 15th time in ohhh .. say 6 months ... did I mention I hate the stock headlights

As for the topic at hand .. I agree with the lack of signal being sent to trigger the "down" when the headlights go off .. could be the stalk/switch itself as the ding sound is to remind you that you pulled the key and left the headlights on ... so the car thinks they are on even if they are not.

Fej

 

I bought the part that I posted above from local parts house this afternoon. Came home and plugged it in. Everything is just fine. I paid $165 for it and took about 2 hrs. to take everything apart and back together. Make sure you have a set of torqx and you need a female torqx to remove the top half of the steering column cover. I used one of the bolts I toook out and but it in the end of a drill extension to make a female torqx. Good luck!

 

I ordered this part from Jason Cromer from Sam Taylor Buick Cadilliac, down in Florida for $146, and got it in earlier this week. This is my project for this weekend!

I'll try to post some pics and results later!

D Moss

 

I had a PM about the air bag and stuff. I did see some air bag wires but I was careful not to touch them.

I started by taking off the console arm rest. Inside there are bolts to remove that. Then the piece around radio/ac panel. Then the piece under the steering column. One screw behind the fog light/hatch switch. Then I carefully took off the plastic covering the steering column. They snap together in the back lick a hinge. I popped that apart and there is a female torqx holding the top piece into place and a regular torqx holding on the bottom. I'm just doing this by memory so forgive me if I leave something out. I followed the turn signal stalk wires down under the dash. One big black wire harness and then a smaller two or four wire harness. I didn't have to take anything else apart. Then on mine there were screws (2 or 3) holding on the signal stalk that were painted yellow. I removed these and the whole thing came off. Then plugged in my new stalk to the wire harnesses and tested all functions. Everything was fine so I reveresed the process and put it all back together. Hope this helps. Let me know if you run into problems and maybe I can help. Good luck!

 

I just replaced mine Saturday, and I did it as the post above, the only difference for me was, I caught hell getting to the torx screw that screws straight forward from the drivers seat.

I didn't take the steering wheel off, and it made it nearly impossible to get to the screw. I just broke the black plastic off of the stock stalk (I was replacing it anyway) where the bolt was, then got some vice grips and grabbed the outside of the bolt, and broke it free. From there, I just used an allen wrench with a 90* turn on it, and finished taking the bolt out.

When I put the new stalk in, I just used the allen wrench to put the bolt back in. I didn't try to torque the **** out of it, due to the fact that I'd tear up the torx points inside of the bolt head.

I couldn't find a torx bit or torx screwdriver that had a 90* turn on it like the allen wrenches.

You don't have to take the air bag or steering wheel off to do this fix, but I would dissable the SIR system (air bags)

Moss

 

Sounds like it fixed your problem.

 

Oh yeah, this is definatley the fix if this is the problem that you are experencing.

Hell, I was so happy that I even washed the ol girl afterwards!