Took apart my car to check the bolts to the camshaft and they were tight!!!

Guess the cam position sensor may be shot?

 

Here is what the service manual says.
The camshaft position (CMP) sensor works in conjunction with a 1X reluctor wheel on the camshaft. The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 12-volt reference, a low reference, and a signal circuit to the CMP sensor.

The CMP sensor determines whether a cylinder is on a firing stroke or on an exhaust stroke. A magnet within the sensor produces a magnetic field. The reluctor wheel of the rotating camshaft interrupts this magnetic field. The sensor's internal circuitry detects this field, and produces a signal which the PCM reads. The PCM uses this 1X signal in combination with the 24X signal of the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. The PCM uses this information in order to determine the crankshaft position and the stroke. The PCM monitors for a loss of the CMP sensor signal.

As long as the PCM receives the CKP sensor 24X signal, the engine will start. The PCM can determine the top dead center for all of the cylinders just by using the CKP sensor 24X signal. The PCM uses the CMP sensor 1X signal in order to determine which stroke the cylinder at the top dead center is on. The PCM determines if the cylinder is on the firing stroke or on the exhaust stroke. The system attempts synchronization, and looks for an increase in the engine speed, indicating that the engine started. If the PCM does not detect an increase in the engine speed, the PCM assumes the PCM is incorrectly synchronized to the exhaust stroke. The PCM synchronizes to the opposite cam position. A slightly longer cranking time may be a symptom of this condition.

This step is an important aid for locating a condition without extensive testing. Perform a visual/physical inspection of the following items:

The wiring harness for damage or cuts
A misrouted harness that is too close to high voltage/high current devices such as secondary ignition components, motors and generators--These components may induce electrical noise on a circuit that may interfere with normal circuit operation.
The vacuum hoses for proper routing, connections, splits, or kinks
Air leaks at the throttle body mounting area, mass air flow sensor (MAF), and the intake manifold sealing surfaces
The MAF sensor installation--The arrows on the plastic portion of the sensor must point towards the engine.
The powertrain control module (PCM) and body grounds for being clean and tight
The battery connections for being clean and tight
Good luck.

 

After I finish swapping in a new cam, I'll have to start hunting.
You don't think its a faulty sensor?
If it is it doesn't look easy to get to though, would the intake manifold have to come off?

Thanks for the info!!!!

 

yes, rem the intake and you are there; never seen one go bad....yet

 

Are you saying that you've never seen a bad sensor?

Are you saying I should check my intake?

Anything else?

 

Has the intake ever been off? Possible the wires could have been damaged if it has.

 

The intake has never been off.

 

1. When I start the car sometimes it stumbles and sometimes it don't.
2. If it stumbles, I can clear the code and it starts fine.
3. I do not get the code under any driving conditions only when I start the car.

Done:
I've checked the front two grounding points and have found them fine.
The bolts to the camshaft are tight.