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Install Tips For Dynatech Headers

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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #1  
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Default Install Tips For Dynatech Headers

I am getting ready to install a set of DYNATECH (SUPERMAXX) headers and was wondering if anyone had any advice, tips, install secrets to help this go smoothly.

Thanks,

Micah
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 12:08 AM
  #2  
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Follow the directions supplied w/ the headers - it is pretty straightforward - take your time

On my A4, I did NOT have to disconnect the steering shaft - passenger side was a little tight, then suddenly went into place like nothing was ever blocking it.

To re-install the oil dipstick on the pass side, I had a friend lay under the car and help guide it a little - I stood over the car, using a trouble light and a mechanics mirror to spot the dipstick hole in the engine block - then I took a piece of wire that I had fashioned a hook on the end of and I snagged the dipstick tube and pulled it into position. It took two of us, but it was fairly simple after 2 - 3 failed attempts.

remember to use anti-seeze compound on the header bolts.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 01:54 AM
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I have the same headers on my car and as much as I love them and as beautiful as they are.......if you can get a deal on someone to install them for you, do it.

After you beat the crap out of yourself by banging your knuckles into the engine, chassis, etc., scratching yourself under the low clearance of the car, drinking too many beers (well, that one wasn't that bad but expensive), and scaring the crap out of your neighbors from cursing at the top of your lungs....................sit down and do the math and figure out if it's not worth paying someone else to do it for you.

If you want to make your life easy, do what I did and spend the extra few hundred bucks for the x-pipe with the cats from Dynatech as well. Not only do they look really sweet but it's all custom stuff and it might end up being cheaper to get the whole setup installed then just the headers. I know it sounds like a rant but it's just my two cents.

I commend you on your fine choice of headers though!
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:12 AM
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What kinda HP gains are we talking about with the Dynatech Supermaxx headers (full system with hi flow cats & X pipe), on a A4 ?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Guro305
I have the same headers on my car and as much as I love them and as beautiful as they are.......if you can get a deal on someone to install them for you, do it.

After you beat the crap out of yourself by banging your knuckles into the engine, chassis, etc., scratching yourself under the low clearance of the car, drinking too many beers (well, that one wasn't that bad but expensive), and scaring the crap out of your neighbors from cursing at the top of your lungs....................sit down and do the math and figure out if it's not worth paying someone else to do it for you.

If you want to make your life easy, do what I did and spend the extra few hundred bucks for the x-pipe with the cats from Dynatech as well. Not only do they look really sweet but it's all custom stuff and it might end up being cheaper to get the whole setup installed then just the headers. I know it sounds like a rant but it's just my two cents.

I commend you on your fine choice of headers though!
I got the entire setup. I can't see any header install being worse than the SLP setup I installed. Those things were a straight PITA!

I am just going to take my time.

Gains...says around 35 rwhp. We will see.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:23 AM
  #6  
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if your doing this yourself and get stuck, give me a call; be sure to secure O2 wires and tighten starter prior to tightening the LT's up top
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 10:42 AM
  #7  
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I did it myself - it's not hard, but you must pay attention, go slow, and stay organized.

The Headers came in 2 little trays - i used one tray on each side of my car to keep bolts and items (O2 sensors) from driver or passenger side seperate so i wouldn't be confused putting things back together.

Also, I accidently damaged a clutch line that cost me $900 to repair... i'd suggest you don't do the same... heres a pic i made...



Any questions just post here, lots of people have done these and can help.


As for gains - i haven't had mine tuned/tested yet because i've got H/C package en route. But my tuner (who is a Dynatech Vendor also) says he normally sees about 25rwhp after tune on these.


Good Luck
Dan
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by LF97C5Vette
I did it myself - it's not hard, but you must pay attention, go slow, and stay organized.

The Headers came in 2 little trays - i used one tray on each side of my car to keep bolts and items (O2 sensors) from driver or passenger side seperate so i wouldn't be confused putting things back together.

Also, I accidently damaged a clutch line that cost me $900 to repair... i'd suggest you don't do the same... heres a pic i made...



Any questions just post here, lots of people have done these and can help.


As for gains - i haven't had mine tuned/tested yet because i've got H/C package en route. But my tuner (who is a Dynatech Vendor also) says he normally sees about 25rwhp after tune on these.


Good Luck
Dan

hit it right on the head, i broke the oil sensor there, by not removing it. oh well. i learned. it was cheap to replace but you dont want to damage the connector. also make sure you get the car high enough for the drivers side. oh and the air tubes are a pain. One is easy because you can just drill out the whole, but the passenger side doesnt come out so its harder to deal with.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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Probably the biggest screw up is hooking the O2 sensors up backwards....I've read too many posts with people throwing codes, rough running, etc. due to the sensor wiring being reversed. Take note of which pair of wires goes to which side of the car...protect them well. It's a really good time to add a tunnel reinforcement plate (while you're in there, ever heard that one before?). Also, if you plan to EVER use a wideband O2 sensor for tuning, add a bung to the header collector NOW, or you'll regret it later. My $.02....
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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pretty good advice here so far, I broke the oil sensor, and also had the the rear O2's reversed just be cautious and take your time, you should be good to go.
Just FYI also, you will probably throw a code and check engine light even if you do hook everything up right..this is due to your rear O2's not liking the hi-flow cats not getting hot enough, and reading different than your Front 02's.
Have fun This can be corrected by installing O2 sims, or having the Rear 02's turned off when tuning the car.
Good luck.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FrankTank
pretty good advice here so far, I broke the oil sensor, and also had the the rear O2's reversed just be cautious and take your time, you should be good to go.
Just FYI also, you will probably throw a code and check engine light even if you do hook everything up right..this is due to your rear O2's not liking the hi-flow cats not getting hot enough, and reading different than your Front 02's.
Have fun This can be corrected by installing O2 sims, or having the Rear 02's turned off when tuning the car.
Good luck.
Yeah - i saw P0153 (i think... or something close... lol) which was a HO2 Sensor slow response... but no check engine light, and no rough running. However it does seem to run a little rich now... needs tune.


Dan
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by frodo84
Probably the biggest screw up is hooking the O2 sensors up backwards....I've read too many posts with people throwing codes, rough running, etc. due to the sensor wiring being reversed. Take note of which pair of wires goes to which side of the car...protect them well. It's a really good time to add a tunnel reinforcement plate (while you're in there, ever heard that one before?). Also, if you plan to EVER use a wideband O2 sensor for tuning, add a bung to the header collector NOW, or you'll regret it later. My $.02....
Label the wires WELL before you disconnect them, and maybe make a few notes on a note pad - DO NOT try and simply remember where they go - you WILL forget or get confused.

Things get kind of confusing when you are underneath the car looking upside down, and I THINK???? the wires might cross, but I don't remember - be sure to label them well as to what sensor, they go to.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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Others may well disagree, but if you don't have access to a lift... fugetaboutit!.. You need at least 3 feet to get the driver's side in. Everything else is quite simple. Like all above, take your time, label everything, note how things come off, and ensure you get that insdie started bolt back on tight. Ask how I know.

Good Luck and enjoy the install.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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I did mine on jackstands in the garage....Not too bad.

You can get the drivers side in from the top if you don't have access to a lift.

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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by molson
I did mine on jackstands in the garage....Not too bad.

You can get the drivers side in from the top if you don't have access to a lift.

How did you do it? Did you loosen an engine mount and shift the motor over a bit? Installing my SLP LTs requied me to do this. I am already aware of making sure the sensors (I only have two, removed the rears and tuned it out) are in correctly. I am also fimiliar with the oil sensor and the negative grounds. I forgot one and that was a PITA to figure out, because it was hidden in some wiring.

Well, I appreciate all of the advice and responses.

Look forward to the new and neat look this headers will be providing.

Micah
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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install the dr side from bottom, it will take <1 minute
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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I undid the steering shaft , removed the drivers side valve cover and disconnected the fuel lines.

I didn't have to unbolt the motor....It was alot easier than lifting the car 30" in the air.

Watch out for the coolant temp sensor on the drivers side head if you try this.

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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 05:23 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by molson
I undid the steering shaft , removed the drivers side valve cover and disconnected the fuel lines.

I didn't have to unbolt the motor....It was alot easier than lifting the car 30" in the air.

Watch out for the coolant temp sensor on the drivers side head if you try this.

That is how I got the SLP LTs in. Cool, thanks, if that doesn't seem to work, I will go up from the bottom.
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