Just installed new rotors, pads, calipers and hoses (GM/DuraStop Drilled & SLotted with the ceramic pads) on my 99 coupe. Could some refer me to a internet source of how to break these new pads & rotors in.
Thanks in advance.....

 

This is what Hawk recommends for race pads (and what I do) - I would say the same for street pads excluding the race condition break in part. Medium speed would be around 30-40 and high speed would be 60-70.

Q: Why should I perform a break-in procedure on new brake pads?

A: Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.

Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?

A: Brake pad break-in procedure.

After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.

At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.

Skip this part
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.

Important part
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.

If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.

 

Wicked Weasel......

Thanks for taking the time to assist another CF member....much appreciated!

Take care, be safe!
MikeR

 

ive done that the past 2 break jobs ive done and had no problems. Its harder finding somewhere to do this which is the hard part

 

np that is why the forum is great. I have learned a ton from here and without it my car would be stock - well maybe that is not a good thing

 

and think of us guys that need to go race speed

 

The only thing I'd add to WW's writeup is to just drive the car for 100 miles or so to let the pads and rotors get to know each other. You can go through the bedding/seasoning process right away, but the pads are "green" and could use a bit of use and heat (just normal braking) to get the curing process underway before whacking on them.

Also, I notice you're using ceramic pads. I know that those kind of pads aren't used in racing, so I'm not really sure if they need to be bedded in or not. Hopefully someone here will straighten me out (it's happened before! )

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

 

ok so I might be a senior citizen and only drive on the track once each year with our club. Brake "break in". I just drive normal with easy in town stops for a couple of days. Each stop is w/o holding the brake and I let the car creep so no hot spots stay on the rotors in any place. Been doing this since my 77 Olds bought new needed rotors. Never had an issue. When highway driving I tap the brakes let the car and use easy pressure to stop then release the brakes while rolling for cool down. After 100 miles or so driving is then "whatever you would call normal" vettdvr

PS on the track at over 100 mph I use what is necessary to make the double 45 left / right turns. vettdvr