My Fuel Filter developed a gushing leak at the end going toward the engine. I replaced it and have some suggestions.
This applies to Automatic transmissions.
Manual transmissions should have more room and you might not have to remove the muffler bolts.
Use a FRAM G7740 or an AC DELCO GF822 not a NAPA ore a WIX.
The Fram is an exact replacement for the Delco filter on the car.
The NAPA or WIX has a METAL ROUND CONNECTOR not the plastic one which has a place to put a screwdriver in when trying to remove the plastic ratainer clips. I don't know HOW you would get the one with the metal collar OFF as it has 4 grabber metal spring clips and it is almost impossible to get your hand up there let alone some removal tool.
I tried removing the filter without taking off the bolts from the left muffler to the intermediate H pipe. Got the nut off but THATS IT.
If you are a Munchkin you might be able to use your hands to get the nylon clips to go in enough to remove the filter from the gas line.
Otherwise... Remove the two muffler bolts. Don't remove the muffler just let the pipe go down to give you some room to get your hands in there. Compress the nylon retainers and remove the filter GENTLY.
DO NOT DAMAGE THE FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL HAVE A MULTIHOUR EXPENSIVE JOB AHEAD OF YOU.
USE NEW NYLON RETAINERS. They Should come WITH the filter.
put one on the male pipe side of the filter going back to the gas tank.
Remove the old one from the line going to the engine and replace it with a NEW ONE.
My Filter appears to have leaked due to the PLASTIC CLIPS LOSING THEIR SHAPE AND INTEGRITY. A box of 5 of these clips is only about $3.50 so DON'T REUSE the OLD ONES.
GM says put a drop of motor oil onto both ends beforee reassembly.
Due to o-rings swelling after use. On a new filter don't know if it is necessary. GM Manual says remove stabilizer bar. WHY? Do you need more things to PLAY WITH. Not Necessary.
Put filter FRONT END going toward ENGINE FIRST.
Push until both sides if the clips engage onto the filter. PULL BACK to make sure it won't seperate. Remember there's about 80 PSI when the pump starts. Then put on the rear gas line. ONCE AGAIN pull apart.
MINE WASN'T CLICKED IN and SEPERATED. Find out NOW not on the interstate highway. Ease filter onto retaining bolt and replace 10mm nut. Replace muffler and HAND TIGHTEN BOLTS. Don't cross thread them. Tighten muffler bolts with a wrench.
Have a helper turn on IGNITION several times and check for LEAKS.

If OK IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE I Just posted.\

Have FUN

BIGHANK

 

The things I learned from replacing the fuel filter.
1. To gain enough clearance in moving the left muffler, I removed the endlinks of the Hotchkis sway bar allowing the sway bar to rotate down and toward the frame. This 'granted' the muffler a little more distance in dropping it (no need to remove the left muffler, just unbolt it to gain some reasonable space for removing the fuel filter). I didn't want to remove the sway bar, just gain some extra space in pulling back and rotating the left muffler. One doesn't want to play with any bolt attached to the aluminum frame since it is real easy to strip the threads. That is why I just unbolted the end links. I suspect that the above applies to the OEM sway bar. It sure looked to me that fully removing the left muffler would require removing the sway bar.
2. I also removed the left muffler hanger (rubber isolator, very accessible) rather than fight moving the muffler which could easily bang up against the automatic transmission connectors and inflict some damage.
3. Removing the driver side heat shield just in front of the tire (just the ‘futherest’ back section - two bolts a 10 mm on the outside and a 13 mm near the center line of the car that can be easily stripped if not carefully reinserted – I noticed my dealer had been able to do it so I fixed another dealer inflicted professional repair time saver).
4. The rear quick disconnect fittings were easy to remove by hand (needle nose pliers actually). The fuel line on the front requires a fuel line disconnect tool. See what needs to be done by looking at the new filter you are about to install. It did take some effort to pull the filter from the front fuel line. You should feel the disconnect tool making full contact with the clips (push in until it bottoms; again play with the new filter to see how far it must be inserted.
5. Putting some oil on the fuel lines to facilitate inserting the fuel lines onto the new filter is mandatory.
6. Replacing the exhaust muffler gasket (after cleaning both flanges, GM Part # 10276792) is the correct way to do this job.
7. It is a messy and dirty job (I can never move my head fast enough to miss getting nailed with gasoline as it pours out of the filter; should put some rages around the filter as you pull it out). I saw no evidence that the filter was 'dirty' after 35K miles. Inspecting the filter's drained gas in a glass showed no particles or dirt. But after 10 years, what doesn't really need replacing on my 2000 C5? Especially my body after working under the car for a week!!
7. Final suggestion - check for gas leaks. The muffler pipe is right below the fuel filter connections.
8. Thinking about it, replacing the two nylon collets on the inlet fuel lines/tubing connections is a cheap means of problem avoidance.