Help! No Communication






Let us know what happens so if anyone else has this problem it can be fixed or avoided!
Thanks,Matt





You say you were cleaning under the hood ... could you have gotten water or some other fluid in a connector? When you replaced the battery could you have hit any of the wiring to the PCM as it is located below the battery?
I'd look for a loose or shorted (water in it) connector. Especially if the Instrumentt Panel computer can't communicate with the PCM and cannot display DYC codes.
If it does dispaly codes, especially a P0602, then the PCM may need re-programming.
Good luck
PCM No Comm.
TCS U1000 H C
BCM U1255 H
SDM U1000 H C
BO-RFA U1000 H C
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
PCM No Comm.
TCS U1000 H C
BCM U1255 H
SDM U1000 H C
BO-RFA U1000 H C
The U in front shows that these are communication problems between the various computers (BCM, SDM, TCS, etc.) ... and the C means these are "Current" (right now) problems.
I am totally guessing here ... but I'd look at two possible issues ...
1) A ground wire has come loose. The computers (such as the PCM) can't get power because they can't get ground. Check under the hood in all the places you were working in and see if you might have knocked something loose.
2) somewhere in the wiring harness wires have gotten exposed and are grounding when they should not. Again look around where you were working and see if possibly there are exposed (bare) wires.
Beyond that, I'm outta ideas ... maybe someone else has other ideas ??
Good luck,
Exactly what did you do when the battery was dead? Did you jump start the car or charge the battery with a charger? I'm betting that somewhere in that process electrical system was hit with reverse polarity, either with jumper cables hooked up backwards or a charger hooked up backwards.
I appears you may have a serious problem with the PCM and possibly the IPC. Nothing on a C5 should need reprogramming just because the battery went dead. They may forget their learned fuel settings and my not run the best for the first little bit until they relearn the mixtures and stuff but nothing should keep the car from starting.
Check FUSES .... on my car Fuse #16 and #23 in the engine compartment fuse block controls power to the PCM ... check your Owner's Manual and see if a fuse has blown ... maybe it is as simple as that ?? Let's hope so ...
Near the end of post #4 he states the engine does fire for just a second, which sounds like it is firing on the enrichment fuel the PCM will spray pre start. So it sounds like the PCM is working somewhat, enough to drive the ignition and pre enrich the engine, but is sounds like it may have logical problems which is keeping it from running the engine.
Since all this started right after a dead battery, it is likely the electrical system was hit with reverse polarity by either jumper cables or battery charger.
The fuse idea is very good.




Exactly what did you do when the battery was dead? Did you jump start the car or charge the battery with a charger? I'm betting that somewhere in that process electrical system was hit with reverse polarity, either with jumper cables hooked up backwards or a charger hooked up backwards.
I appears you may have a serious problem with the PCM and possibly the IPC. Nothing on a C5 should need reprogramming just because the battery went dead. They may forget their learned fuel settings and my not run the best for the first little bit until they relearn the mixtures and stuff but nothing should keep the car from starting.
one more thing, is the "security" light flashing or is it on steady when the key is turned on?
U1016
U1255
U1000
B2482
B2723
C1233
I get the Reduced Engine Power after the Corvette Display
And my PCM says NO COMM
I also get a SERVICE ENGINE SOON light and the Check Engine Light keeps clicking, along with the Fuel Pump Relay and I can hear the same type of clicking in both fuel pumps.
You posted the following codes:
U1016 - Communication (Comm) problem with PCM
U1255 - Comm problem - missing parameter or sending module ID
U1000 - same as U1255
B2482 - Problem with back-up light circuit
B2723 - PASS-Key resistance incorrect (wrong key or bad key)
C1233 - RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
These codes will have either an H or a C after them ... H are History codes and the problem does not exist right now ... C are Current codes.
If the B2723 is Current, the key you are using to try and start the car has the wrong resistance accross the pellet compared to the resistance the correct pellet has.
If you have a spare key, try using that, especially if the B2723 is a Current code. At least 3 minutes must elapse after you inserted the bad key, ignition OFF (no key in it) before you try the other key (the delay is to make it painfully slow for a thief to try combinations of keys with different pellets in them).
If all the above are H codes (the Uxxx codes will undoubtedly be C's), I'd clear them from the system, and like I and SpeedyZ are recommending, check all fuses.
But, (and hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will step in here .... LOL) a bad key will definately disable the car. I don't know if the NO COMM with the PCM is because of the bad key, or another issue, but if you clear the codes and are still getting a B2723 when trying to start it, then the key is definately an issue.
I don't know how familiar you are with PASS-Key .. so skip this if you already understand it ...
Look at your key. There is a black "pellet" imbedded in the metal part of the key. It has a contact area (little metal strips) on each side of it. When you insert the key and try to turn the key to the START position, two things happen:
1) The cuts in the metal key have to match the lock itself. Just like your front door key to your home, this is a "mechanical" way of insuring that the key matches the lock.
2) The BCM runs an electric current through the pellet ... the pellet is basically just a resistor. If the resistance level matches what the BCM expects, then the car will start. If the resistance level is incorrect, the car will not only not start, but the BCM will now "lock out" any more attempts to start for 3 minutes. The BCM is "smart" enough that while it is running the 3 minute timer, and you disconnect the battery hoping to reset the timer ... well it won't, the BCM will pick up the 3 minute clock once power is returned.
You might try taking something like a pencil eraser and "cleaning" the pellet contacts on both sides of the key. Possibly some dirt or other "gunk" is causing the resistance to be far enough out of range that the BCM doesn't recognize the key as valid.
If you've cleaned the pellet contacts, checked all the fuses, and looked over your wiring (you never mentioned if you'd done any work on the car prior to this problem ... check carefully around anywhere you worked for a loose ground cable or exposed/shorted wires) ... then I'm outta ideas ..... Anyone else wanna jump in here ???






