Ok I am not sure if this is a repost or not, there are so many posts on the column lock I cant dig through them all without my eyes crossing. But I had my column lock up the other day and absolutely would not come unlocked. After not driving my car for a few weeks I was going crazy! After doing a little research I found that most people bang around on the column until it breaks loose. Well in my case this didnt work. So after calling the dealer and finding out that it was under the recall still, I had to find a way to haul it. Its lowered very far and I hate to put it on a roll-back, so I tackled the column lock. I basically reversed the polarity on the actuator and zip it retracted. It was as simple as that.... Heres how I did it.


Using a little flathead screwdriver pop off the hatch release/foglight panel on the left side of the steeringwheel. Then on the right side of the steering wheel repeat the procedure on the Interior Air Temp. Sensor cover.

Using a 15 torx remove the screws that are behind the two panels you removed. Now remove the 2 screws in the bottom of the knee panel.

Carefully pull the knee panel down and away from the dash.

Now you will see 4 wires going up into the left side (facing the steering wheel) the colors are Black, Green, Orange, and Purple.

Trace these wires to their connector towards the dash. Now unplug the connector and pull the side going to the steering wheel to you, not hard just take up the slack.

Now you should be able to see the wires and connector end very well. Simply run a wire from the positive side of the battery and push it up inside of the connector for the purple wire. Now take another wire and hold it to the metal surround under the steering wheel, connect the other side to the orange wire.

I just took two wires, rolled the ends and jammed them into the connectors on both the orange and purple ends. Then I connected the one from the purple to the + side. Then touched the other wire going to the orange to the metal surround.

You should hear the column unlock. Now you will still have a service column lock problem. But you can at least drive your car to the stealership.

Hope this has helped somebody!

 

Good info...do the CLB!

 

good info for people stuck and not wanting to tow their cars

 

I have one recall done and now have to get the second one done. Do I still need the CLB after this? I think the second recall is removal of the column lock plate.

 

I just got a harness installed yesterday under warranty at the stealership after about 2 weeks of on and off column lock issues. I would wait for the "10 second" message, turn the car off, wait the 10, get the "service column lock" message and with the key on bang the wheel twice in each direction, then with the key off bang the wheel twice in each direction, and the next time I was clear and ready to go without "messages". Helped me make a trip to tahoe and back and forth to work for two weeks before I could get her in to have it handled.

Thanks for the info and hope this helps others.
Fej

 

This is what the power adapter that comes with the CLB does. It plugs into the cigarette lighter socket, and gives you a way to retract the actuator to the unlocked position without the key being on so you can install the bypass.

When you were beating on the column, were you also turning the key to the on position? With the key on, the same circuit should have been energized to retract the actuator.

 

IMHO - DO NOT GET THE SECOND RECALL-. Several Forum members reports failures with GM's latest design to fix the problem. Their harness relays can fail, stranding you, again. Get a CLB from Corvettes of Houston or Thunder Racing. I have the one from Thunder Racing. 1 hour installation max, NO MORE WORRIES.

 

Will this rid me of the Service Column Lock message?

TexHawk
I beat on that thing every way I could think of... Key on, Key off, Running, I even turned the car upside down and tried it. But no luck