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Crank sensor experts, inside, please....

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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 05:17 PM
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Default Crank sensor experts, inside, please....

I think I may have a bad crank sensor. The other day while pulling into an auto parts store (How ironic!) and with the car running great, as I slowed to less than 5 miles an hour to park, my 2000 C5 suddenly started chugging black smoke out the rear and missing very badly. I didn't get an SES light at that point and all guages were reading fine, so I put it in park and revved it up a little. It started REALLY smoking and backfiring awful! I shut it down and went inside. I re-started it when I came out and no change, except I now had a SES light! Having 45 miles to drive home from work, I kept going and made it, at one point using $8.00 worth of gas in 17 miles!!!! I have a Diablosport handheld tuner/diagnostic scan tool, and the scan says it is the crank position sensor. I licked my fingertip so I could touch the individual header tubes without burning them, to check for dead cylinders, and I had at least 3 of them. Anyone know how much these sensors are and if they fail very often? Thanks.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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I am surprised that so few even viewed this thread, much less not even one response. I have an update: My car overheated the exhaust system and nearly caught fire. It did melt some of the fascia in the rear by the mufflers. I had no idea this was such an engine/ car ruining sensor!! I guess it must have severely retarded the timing, making the exhaust overheat severely, as well. I may have some internal engine damage (exhaust valves/seats) as well. In truth, I may not have view this thread if someone else had started it either, only because I was not aware how serious this malfunction was/is. Hopefully, this thread will help someone out there.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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what fault do you have exactly? usually a bad crank sensor would case a no start condition.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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it may fail safe to cam sensor . ya need a lab scope or scanner [snapon] to view wave form. i believe its by timing cover look for a build up of dirt or metal "dust" on sensor . the reluctor may be on harmonic bal. look for broken teeth. 360 x some thing . hey i have to dig out my books,scope man. or scanner books. i gave some hints to look for good luck. if ya get realy jammed i look up all the stuff but ya need test equiptment. let me know
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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Are you still running without cats? If so then it must have been running way retarded the on timing. Check your codes using your DIC and list everything you got, list the entire line that is displayed. Clear all the codes and run the car a little and see what codes re-appear. Also you will want to check to be sure that the crank sensor wires have not gotten into the headers. The crank sensor and wire are located right there near the starter and not too far from the headers. If you still have dead cylinders pull the plugs and see if they are fouled, it sounds like it is running very rich. Also check the coils on any dead cylinders to be sure they have spark. Another thing that may help diagnose a crank sensor is to clamp a timing light on each plug wire and point it at the balancer and watch for erratic timing.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Default crank position sensor

Not an expert but the crank sensor is on the passenger side
of the engine behind starter.

the first thing to check is the connector on the sensor for
proper tension/clean after that, remove sensor and check for
damage.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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You can check the crank senser by using a digital ohm meter set on 200 milli volts, turn the engine over and it should read between 1.5-2.5 milli volts.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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my bad .they are right its by starter. think a test by a dvm may lead him to think its ok. it makes a square wave. i can be read by a scanner. all have givin good advise mainly wires near headers
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dpd
what fault do you have exactly? usually a bad crank sensor would case a no start condition.
I believe the scanner (Predator) said it was a P0336. Thanks for the response.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by patton
it may fail safe to cam sensor . ya need a lab scope or scanner [snapon] to view wave form. i believe its by timing cover look for a build up of dirt or metal "dust" on sensor . the reluctor may be on harmonic bal. look for broken teeth. 360 x some thing . hey i have to dig out my books,scope man. or scanner books. i gave some hints to look for good luck. if ya get realy jammed i look up all the stuff but ya need test equiptment. let me know
I really appreciate your offers to help and your knowledge. The sensor is located at the rear of the motor on rhe passenger side, behind the starter motor, I believe. Thanks, again.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedyZ
Are you still running without cats? If so then it must have been running way retarded the on timing. Check your codes using your DIC and list everything you got, list the entire line that is displayed. Clear all the codes and run the car a little and see what codes re-appear. Also you will want to check to be sure that the crank sensor wires have not gotten into the headers. The crank sensor and wire are located right there near the starter and not too far from the headers. If you still have dead cylinders pull the plugs and see if they are fouled, it sounds like it is running very rich. Also check the coils on any dead cylinders to be sure they have spark. Another thing that may help diagnose a crank sensor is to clamp a timing light on each plug wire and point it at the balancer and watch for erratic timing.
You are correct- No cats, it smells really rich, and you got a damn good idea on the timing light check. I originally got the P0336 code AND some other code, can't remember the #, but I believe the code was about a sort of weird transmission failure or something. I cleared all codes and the only one that comes up now is always the same- P0336-Crank sensor failure. The tach is reading very erratic, however, lending credibility to your erratic timing theory. Or should I say WAS. I think the motor cooked the exhaust valves, at least. Too late to start it- it won't fire at all, and the intense heat cooked the fuel line somewhere under the car, as when I crank it over now, fuel is coming out somewhere, and the motor spins over like the plugs are out!!
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by patton
my bad .they are right its by starter. think a test by a dvm may lead him to think its ok. it makes a square wave. i can be read by a scanner. all have givin good advise mainly wires near headers
Thank you all for trying to help me. I am just reeling at all that has happened this week. Check my "one in a million" Blackwing posts earlier this week! I fear the sensor and/or any related wiring woes are the least of my problems at this point in time, as I think I have at least 3-4 Grand in cosmetic damages and at least another 3Grand in motor work ahead. Man, and I thought my first wife and the subsequent divorce was a PITA!! At least here in the north, I would have been parking it for winter storage in about 6 or 7 weeks anyway. Tryin' ta see any positive I can at this point. But it's kinda like findin' the wife in bed with another man, and sayin' that "at least she didn't get pregnant!!
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