yeah i thought the reason you ajusted the shift points was to make it shift at the new rev limiter (or closer to the new rev limiter).

 

The rev limiter is just a safety so that you wont over rev your motor. If I set the rev limiter at 6200 the trans would never shift into 2 nd gear.. Sometimes it bounces around at 6300. So I put the limiter at 6400. There is no sense in running a mostly stock engine over 6200 rpm.. Maximum horsepower is achieved at 5600 rpm and torque peak is at 4400 rpm. No sense getting to far out of the power band

 

Thats absolutley incorrect. You always want the shift well before the rev limiter. The stock rev limiter from the factory is set at 6200 rpm and the shift points are between 5900-6000 rpm. Go ahead and try to set the shift points and the rev limiter at the same rpm.. You will quickly see my point. The engine will actually bounce off the rev limiter for a second or two berfore it shifts to the next gear. This is enough time to lose a race against a Mustang GT.. The rev limiter is just a safety so you don't over rev or blow up your engine. That is its sole purpose. Even if you set the shift points at around 6200 rpm and the rev limiter at 6300 rpm you will still see the bouncing off the rev limiter every so often.. Make sense? You need a good 200 rpm margin between shift points and rev limiter.. Always.. Like I said. Try setting the limiter and the shift points at the same rpm and see what happens just for grins.. You will initially think your trans is fried because it won't shift. You will be back in your drive way changing your limiter settings so fast it will make your head spin

 

To explain a rev limiter further...rev limit rpm = flame out. The computer takes over and won't let the motor run again until you get below a certain rpm. My car is an M12 6speed manual transmission and it has the same rev limiter setting as your A4. ZO6 motors have a slightly higher rev limit from the factory.

 

Yes i know this, i didnt mean make it shift at the rev limiter. I just thought you could get closer to it. If you set the rev limiter at 6500, i figured you would want it to shift at 6400. you set yours at 6400 buy it was shifting before 6200.

 

Leave yourself a 200-300 rpm gap between shift point and rev limiter to avoid problems 100 rpms will not work. Trust me,, been there, done that

 

My '98 has shorty headers, Corsa cat back and Blackwing induction. I use Hypertech to firm up the shifts.
I spoke with a local tuner who is nationally known and he told me that as long as there isn't a carbon build up on the exhaust tips (there isn't) then the car is running good on it's own and a professional tune is a waste of money.
Start adding long tubes or heads, etc. then it's a different story. But for a semi- stock street car be careful what people suggest.

 

these hand helds are not worth the $$

 

Whats the max you can set the rev limiter too? If it is 6600, and i set the shift points to 6300, will that be a good set up?

 

Brandnew, i agree. But im getting mine fore $65 shipped. Thats just worth the fan setting alone to me.

 

6600 is the max for the rev limiter. With the mods you have now you will do better with around a 6200 rpm shift point and the rev limiter set at 6400 rpm. My time slips were best with this set up. With the power peak at 5600 rpm there is no sense what so ever on over reving your engine outside of the power band. The stock springs just won't take the pounding above 6300 anyway for any amount of time either.You are better off not messing with shift points at all if you are going over 6200 rpm, not with the set up you have at this point. I've tried it myself and my time slips went from 13.2 to 13.6 Wait until you get a camshaft kit with heavy duty springs and retainers and headers before you start increasing your shift points. At that point a hand held programmer is worthless anyhow.. You need a dyno tune

 

So what did your time slip go to after the programmer? I run a 13.2 with my set up now. Im hoping that after the programmer i can get a 12.9, is that possible? Im going to the track friday, what do yall think about setting the fuel to the NON-RFG fuel setting, and putting 110 octane in my car also?

 

Anti-Ford... You will just have to tinker with the programmer just like I did. The settings I mentioned at the very begining of this post worked best for me. I tried them all... I did a lot of Searches on this Forum and the LS-1 Forum on what worked best for other people with simular set ups. I Found different answers along the way. One guy mentioned his stock settings ( shifts at 5900 rpm) resulted in his best time slips. I found this hard to believe, but then again, horsepower falls off at 5600-5700 rpms... but the damn motor still pulls strong even past 6000 rpms. Go tinker and burn up about $300 worth of tires. A dyno tune really is the best, but I would not do it until you get the camshaft/Header package. I bought my Hypertech for $100 on this Forum.. The Fan settings alone were worth that to me... Everything else is just a Bonus!!! Good Luck... And even though lots of people will say these programmers are crap... I totally disagree as my car runs cooler and faster. Just make sure you are not getting any pinging or knocking, sometimes you can't hear it over the sound of the engine and exhaust. Proper fuel and/or Torco will eliminate this, especially in the hot summer months..

 

Thanks for all the info man, im hoping that it will come in tomorrow, because im going to the dragstrip and i can see the best results. What is the best fan setting for a stock temo???

 

A lot of guys set it at the 160* thermostst setting and it keeps it pretty cool in a nice range!

Thanks,Matt

 

You will have to change out your themostat to really get the most out of changing fan settings.. I have the 180 degree hypertech thermostat and have the fan settings at 180.. Down south in hotter climates 160 degree settings and a 160 thermostat would be a better choice, at least in the summer. Up north in colder climates the 160 would probably be to low of a setting . Your engine would never get warmed up on cold days, not a good thing

 

Will it hurt the car if i set the fans to 160, but still have the stock termo?

 

set it on the desk as a paper weight. thats the best it will do.
Then go get a tune from a reputable tuner. If not nearby, do a mail order tune.

 

OK like i said before, a good tune is like $500, and i got my programmer for under $100. Im not going to get a tune with just intake and exhaust.

 

bone stock 60 2.33, 1/8 9.1@ 81.0 1/4 13.95 @102, engine temp 205, outside temp 80, with 100% humidity.Modifications,ZO6 catback, lid and K&N, HypertechIII program, stat. 60 2.27, 1/8 8.6@85 1/4 13.17@106.8 engine temp 178, outside temp 74, 60% humidity. Have since run a 8.5 1/8 @89.2 mph with a 2.08 60. I removed the program when I had the column lock recall done, and my car turned back into a slug.FWIW running lowest fan settings, 25% shift firmness, 6400 limiter, +3mph 1-2, +4mph 2-3, no change 3-4. I love mine!