OK... Nitrous ... and ... hmm...

nope... I give up... H/C ? :o

 

Bob, I'd love to hear your initial impressions of your changes...please give me an update after you have your work done!

 

Ok read read read before you go and spend a few thousand... Trust me you will be a lot happier with the results.


h/c stands for heads and cam. Generally someone gets a cam first, then heads. You can find a small cam that gives you over 400hp (not at the wheels, but the same rating that they give you when you buy a new car). The car will still sound close to the same and have very good manners. Now you can get a much larger cam and gain a lot more, but then it will sound 'sinister' and I doubt you want to deal with the gremlins that can occur with huge cams.

A fairly safe first step is headers. There are a lot of vendors that sell them here. You will pickup probably 20-30hp from them.

Honestly, if you have around 4k I'd follow something similar to what phils c5 vette said. Then you won't be keeping up with c6's, you'll be passing them

Good luck with your modding, and start reading. It took me a few weeks to pick up most the terms and learn exactly what did what.

 

As stated in previous posts, brake horse power is available at the flywheel, and rear wheel horsepower (measured on dyno) is available at the rear wheels. Factory cars (like the C6) are rated with brake horse power. A rough calculation for rear wheel horsepower is about 20% less that it's brake horse power rating. I guess the bottom line is, how much do you have to spend? That will determine how much more power you can achieve.

 

[QUOTE=even with all the saftey devices under a g wiz. but johnny fast try to go slow here for a while.[/QUOTE]

^ Good example of what happens after many years of sniffing glue.

 

JohnnyFast here are the numbers from the Patriot 243 ported heads and a Thunder Racing CheatR Cam and tuning. No Headers stock exhaust with Z06 Titanium mufflers. 372RWHP and 358 RWTQ. It really pulls up in the 4000 rpm range and up.

 

i stomped on a c6 6 speed with my frc by half a car twice and i just had a b&b catback so i don't think there is much to envy,they're not much faster.

 

The things that are a great place to start and build off of if you want to go fast and are pretty much mandatory. (Bolt-ons)

Cold air Intake, pushrods, headers, exhaust, underdrive pulley, clutch(man.) convertor(auto).

The next step would be some internal mods.

Cams- You can get a mild cam mid 220's to maybe higer 220's on duration and <.600 lift or larger cams 230's+ and lifts <.600. The bigger you go the less street manners if will have but there will be more HP. You need to do research on what you are willing to sacrifice for what you want to gain. One thing to think of though is you can go mild and still have great torque, which makes your cam more fun to drive even if it isn't the fastest out there.

Heads- Depends on what your budget is and if you want every little HP you can get. There are a ton of CNC ported LS6 heads out there that will net good gains for <$1000. You can get really high though if you have to have the best.

Forced Induction- Turbos or superchargers.....Do your homework.

If you decide to go into the motor and want big gains there are some things you need to upgrade to make reliable HP.

Springs- You need to get springs that will handle the lift of your cam.
Pushrods- I think people need to change these if they even think about modding since the stock ones are crap.
Timing chain- Some change them some don't, kinda like a cheap insurance policy.
Tuneing- I would find a well known company to get tuneing from it will let you get the most out of your new mods.
Lower temp thermostat- Some don't do it, but I like the lower operating temps, and it can help with detonation.
Lifters- Some will say optional, but if you do heads I would go ahead and get some even if you go back to the latest stock design LS7.
High volume/high pressure oil pump- Some don't do this, but better oiling is just better IMHO.
Injectors- Depending on your setup you might need new injectors to feed all that power, but if you keep it mild you won't.

Of course if you go into the motor you will need some hardware. Make sure you take these into consideration when you plan out a budget. The little things add up quickly.

Head bolts
Balancer bolt
gaskets
fluids

Some optional things:

Ported throttle body or 90mm
better intake ie. Fast 90, harrop
Rocker arms
Electric water pump
Bigger Mass air meter
Gears/built differential
Nitous Oxide


This should put you on sort of a track. I would still read all you can, you will find out MUCH MUCH more doing searches and reading than just asking for people's opinions on how to go fast, their setup is almost ALWAYS the best.

 

no one wanted to add anything? I must not have forgotten much then...

 

I think you pretty much nailed blue