SUPERCRUZ

Lowered my 03 coupe on the stock bolts about 1 month ago. I took it to my dealer today for its annual service check and requested they do a 4 wheel alignment on the car. Got these results back

LF
0.04 - Camber
7.42 - Caster
0.00 - Toe

RF
-0.52 - Camber
7.51 - Caster
0.04 - Toe

0.57 Cross Camber
-0.09 Cross Caster
0.03 Total Toe

LR
0.18 - Camber
0.00 - Toe

RR
-0.29 - Camber
0.01 - Toe

0.01 Total Toe
-0.01 Thrust Angle

From reading other posts, I am not sure my setting are optimal. Most if not all appear to be within tolerance but it would seem you want similar numbers from left to right if possible. Seems to be a big difference in Camber on the front. Do I need to take it back to the dealer and have them do it over of are these readings okay. Thanks for your help

jbauch357

I hope those are the specs before the alignment not after!

Even if all they did was a toe set they have a lazy mechanic that can't set the toe even from side to side. With specs like that you will have loads of grip turning left and far less when turning right. It looks like the car might be lowered more on one side than the other, I assume that you checked ride height when done with the lowering?

Take it back and let them know you want a four way alignment for caster, camber, and toe - and that everything should be as close to perfect as possible. Make sure to get what the specs are before they start and what they are when done.

It's amazing the low quality of work that comes out of some shops, I had the exact same problem with my Firebird. Even after $800 in front end work the mechanic didn't check caster, and set the toe to the outside on both fronts causing the car to dart. But that is a totally different rant...

SUPERCRUZ

jbauch357 - Thanks for the reply. These are the specs after the alignment. I lowered the car myself and checked several measurements after about 200 mi of driving. Measured bolt threads, ground to frame, and ground to fender lip. Ground to frame measurements were close to even all the way around the car. Within a millimeter or two.

So the toe should be close to even on both front wheels? What are there optimal settings I should be looking for? Thanks.

jbauch357

For a 2003 coupe the specified stock measurements are (assuming 2002 and 2003 coupe had the same spec, Z06 models have more aggressive alignment specs):

Front-
Toe: Preferred + 0.04
Tolerance +/- 0.10

Caster: Preferred + 7.40
Tolerance +/- 0.50

Camber: Preferred - 0.20
Tolerance +/- 0.50

Rear-

Toe: Preferred - 0.01
Tolerance +/- 0.10

Caster: No Spec

Camber: Preferred - 0.18
Tolerance +/- 0.50

Keep in mind the tolerances are the maximum that any angle should be out before service is needed. If a measurement is off of preferred spec it should be VERY minimal, and the opposite side should reflect the same amount of off-preferred measurement.

You can play with these numbers depending on what kind of driving you prefer, but making sure they match factory and seeing how the car handles is a perfect place to start.

If you think the alignment shop that you went to can mend their ways go back and tell them to do it right this time, or better yet do some looking around for a competant alignment shop that can do things right the first time around. Funny thing is the place that did such crap work on my F-body was the dealer too, so much for the manufacturer having the most qualified technicians for the job.

briann510

By the look of those specs id be finding another alignment shop rather quickly. Were you looking for stocxk specs to run after lowering it or a little more aggresive?

Id go back and ask them why they couldnt get damn close to same camber readings for each side for front and each side for rear. My guy had everything spot on side to side after lowering.

They key is more camber lowered and it should have gone to about .8 front and .7 rear just by lowering as it did on my 03 before my guy even touched it.

SUPERCRUZ

Thanks guys. I am taking it back to the dealer this morning. If the guy is not capalbe of doing it right or cannot take the time, I am going to ask for my money back and take it to another shop.

Oh, by the way, the guy managed to put a small gouge in the face of one of the wheels. Just a small mark less than quarter inch on one of the spokes but through the clear. I worked on it for 30 min with some scratch remover and it looks better but not perfect. This kind of incidental damage burns me to no end. The car should come out looking just like it came in. This is a reputable dealer I have used before, but their Vette Tech does not do the alignments. No problems with his work. Debating on whether to ask or demand a new wheel.

AU N EGL

Depedending on you driving style and what you are using the car for.

also do not allow them to use +/- Tolerances, each side must equal.

Rember to have running tire air pressure before alignment. Also when you put the car on the rack, push it up and down a few times on each fender. This will help the car settle.

Front

camber -0.5 to -1.0 equal on both sides
caster =>6* is good but must be equal on both siedes
toe out 1/8" (.125) to 1/16" ( .06) again equal on both sides

Rear
camber -.25 to -1.0 again eqaul on both sides.
( rear camber should be 1/2 of front camber)
toe in 1/8" (.125) to 1/16" ( .06) again equal on both sides
same toe as front


Note: if you do a lot of turning then 1/8 toe if you do a lot of high way driving then 1/16 toe

jbauch357

Not suprised that there was wheel damage considering how poorly they set the specs on your car. Unfortunately this is due to laziness again, there are many options for alignment heads that cause no damage to painted or chromed wheels.

Their alignment tech needs to reach WAY up his a** grab a fist full fo hair and pull his head out before touching any more vehicles.

SUPERCRUZ

Guys - Just got back from the dealer after having spent 3 hrs there. I explained that the alignment in my opinion and others was not to spec. Talked to the shop forman and he said they are using a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system and they align to Hunters specs taking into account road crown and ranges etc. If numbers in green, okay. I said, does it not make sense that the number should be nearly the same from side to side or within at least a few hundreds of a degree. He saw that the camber was not to spec and agreed to go over the car again with the alignment tech. I gave him the GM numbers I had as well as the bulletin number.

After 3 hrs, he came back with the new aligment. Printout was incomplete since they did not take before readings. I was pissed but tried to not show it. I spoke to the tech as he dropped my car off and asked about the numbers. He said, "I forgot to take the before numbers." He set the toe to 0.00 on both sides and got the camber in the front as equal as he could within tolerances. Kept saying "I set specs based on my experience." I said, do you know more than the engineers at GM to which he replied, "NO".

Forman printed the bulletin for me with specs which I already know. He admited they screwed up but thinks the car is set okay now. Kept trying to tell me it would be nearly impossible to get the alignment spot on without spending too much time and that is why GM has ranges. Also said stuff about road crown etc. I say BS.

In any event, the numbers are now.

LF
-0.02 Camber
7.27 Caster
0.00 Toe

RF
-0.03 Camber
7.32 Caster
0.00 Toe

0.01 Cross Camber
-0.04 Cross Caster
0.00 Total Toe

Rear specs were not changed

LR
0.18 - Camber
0.00 - Toe

RR
-0.29 - Camber
0.01 - Toe

0.01 Total Toe
-0.01 Thrust Angle

Can I live with these or do I just need to find another shop. Thanks.

AU N EGL

YOur numebrs look great.


Ahhh this expalines a lot:
That is the poblem with the Hunter machines. You do not want alignemts taking into account road crown and ranges. Not at all if your doing any kind of track events HPDEs or racing.

For my track car any Hunter alignment suck rocks and I went to doing the alignments completly by hand , tape measure, string, camber plates, ect.

and getting numbrs spot in takes no time, just a little skill.


If your primpary use is street, highway and a little spirited driving the Hunter is great. For racing or track days, maybe not.

jbauch357

Those look way better!!!

Why didn't they adjust the rear camber? I don't know for sure, but the rear should be adjustable right (at work and don't have my uber service manual sitting in front of me)?

I would find another shop that you can go to and tell them what you are using the car for so they can adjust the alignment accordingly. Quoting road crown for alignment being out from spec is bullcrap and a cop out from somebody that doesn't want to spend the time to do an alignment right.

frank dupuy

On the RR you have a -0.29 ( OK) on the LR you have a +0.18. The +0.18 would be unacceptable to me. I like -1.20 front -0.20 rear for moderate/aggressive driving. JMHO

MGorman

AU N EGL:

Thanks very much for the alignment specs. I was just getting ready to align my car when I read this post. I did -.08 camber and .06 toe out in the front. In the rear I went with -.04 camber and .06 toe in as you recommend. The car feels awesome!

To all:

I have a Hunter alignment machine where I work. We very rarely use it. The tech that helped me align my car today had never seen the bottom side of a Corvette. He set the car up on the machine and I told him which nuts and bolts to turn. The alignment came out spot on with very little effort. If anyone tells you it’s impossible or even difficult to align your Vette exactly the way you want it, they are just lazy and full of crap!

TEXHAWK0

These readings look good.

Almost all shops align with more negative camber on the right side and/or more positive caster, to get the car to track straight on the highway. Most people just want the steering wheel to be pointed straight and the car to go straight on the highway. There is some truth to that part.
Even though Z06 specs are more aggressive, my experience has been for street driving and good tire wear, the camber and toe-in needs to be as close to zero as possible. With wide tires, even -1/2 deg. camber will result in noticeable inside tire wear. (Z06s can have up to -1.2 deg camber and still be within factory specs.) I have backed mine off to about -1/8 deg. on each side. My car does have about 1/2 deg. more positive caster on the right to help the car track straight on the highway. (The car will tend to go toward the side with less positive caster). Caster does not affect tire wear.
The rear alignment is not as critical since the wheels are not turning like fronts. I would say if the tires are wearing evenly, leave them alone.

SUPERCRUZ

Thanks for all your input guys. I took my paperwork by another shop I was told had a good alignment tech and he confirmed that he also thought the new numbers looked good. Piece of mind for me.

Dealership agreed to note the small scratch on the front wheel and agreed to replace if I wanted in the future if I had any problems with clear coat etc. I think it would be more hassle than it is worth right now to replace the wheel. The mark is barely noticable.

When I got back to work, I put in my leave slip for 5 hours leave today and I got to thinking the dealership cost me money with this ordeal. I called their Customer Relations and asked them to comp the alignment and credit my card back for the alignment work which they agreed to do. Good to know they stand behind their customers. Glad this all ended on a postive note.

AU N EGL

Hey Your welcome

I have spend countless hours learning and doing alignement by hand then taking the car out for a drive. Can feel the differnce between 1/8 and 1/16 toe now.

I run on track

front
-3.2* camber
6.5* caster( right side can get more but left cant so I made them equal)
0 toe

rear
-2 camber
1/16 toe in

I also use T1 Camber plates too hold them in place.

Tact

I have a '04 Z06 which I lowered on stock bolts about two months ago and I'm getting ready to have the alignment checked and adjusted if need be. I also changed the wheels to 19's on the fronts and 20's on the rear. I do not track my car, mainly street driving. Does anyone know the specs I should run for the alignment? Also any adjustments better suited than the stock specs?

MGorman

Check out post #7.

I aligned my car (see post #13) according to AU N EGL’s advice and it feels and performs great!

Tact

I read those but the Z06 specs are a little different.
Plus, I mainly street drive.

MGorman

Those are conservative settings that will work well on the street for a coupe or a Z06.