SS3200 Stall - hesitation / sputtering on launch
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 1
From: Rugby North Dakota
SS3200 Stall - hesitation / sputtering on launch
I've got a 2001 coupe w/ Dynatech Suppermaxx LT headers, Yank SS3200 stall converter and an ECS 3.73 rear end - I HAVE had my computer BENCH tuned, but not yet dynoed - After the bench tune, I'm not getting any codes other than an OCCASSIONAL P1133 and P1153 which are rich/lean codes.
It is my understanding that w/ my SS3200 stall converter that I SHOULD be able to apply the brake, rev the engine to 3200 RPM, let off the brake and launch the car
However, when I put on the brake and rev the engine, I can ONLY get the engine to rev to about 1800 RPM - when the engine hits about 1800 RPM, it starts to sputter and seems to loose power
My car seems to run excellent otherwise, and this seems to only be a problem when I try and lauch the car - getting the RPM's past 1800 is NOT a problem during normal driving - I can put my foot into it and it pulls hard when normal driving
Do I simply need a dyno tune to eliminate this launch problem? Or should I be looking for something else?
Thanks for your input.
It is my understanding that w/ my SS3200 stall converter that I SHOULD be able to apply the brake, rev the engine to 3200 RPM, let off the brake and launch the car
However, when I put on the brake and rev the engine, I can ONLY get the engine to rev to about 1800 RPM - when the engine hits about 1800 RPM, it starts to sputter and seems to loose power
My car seems to run excellent otherwise, and this seems to only be a problem when I try and lauch the car - getting the RPM's past 1800 is NOT a problem during normal driving - I can put my foot into it and it pulls hard when normal driving
Do I simply need a dyno tune to eliminate this launch problem? Or should I be looking for something else?
Thanks for your input.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 1
From: Kingsport TN
You are sputtering because your traction control is on. Turn it off and do the same and it should be fine. I have the same problem at the track even w/ a stock converter. Also, I've been told that u don't need to brake stall, but just mash the pedal and it will flash the converter to 3200 and launch! Hold on and point it in the right direction if u can get traction.
Let me know how this works out for u.
Let me know how this works out for u.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,577
Likes: 3
From: Southern Maryland Maryland
Originally Posted by 94legaleagle
I've got a 2001 coupe w/ Dynatech Suppermaxx LT headers, Yank SS3200 stall converter and an ECS 3.73 rear end - I HAVE had my computer BENCH tuned, but not yet dynoed - After the bench tune, I'm not getting any codes other than an OCCASSIONAL P1133 and P1153 which are rich/lean codes.
It is my understanding that w/ my SS3200 stall converter that I SHOULD be able to apply the brake, rev the engine to 3200 RPM, let off the brake and launch the car
However, when I put on the brake and rev the engine, I can ONLY get the engine to rev to about 1800 RPM - when the engine hits about 1800 RPM, it starts to sputter and seems to loose power
My car seems to run excellent otherwise, and this seems to only be a problem when I try and lauch the car - getting the RPM's past 1800 is NOT a problem during normal driving - I can put my foot into it and it pulls hard when normal driving
Do I simply need a dyno tune to eliminate this launch problem? Or should I be looking for something else?
Thanks for your input.
It is my understanding that w/ my SS3200 stall converter that I SHOULD be able to apply the brake, rev the engine to 3200 RPM, let off the brake and launch the car
However, when I put on the brake and rev the engine, I can ONLY get the engine to rev to about 1800 RPM - when the engine hits about 1800 RPM, it starts to sputter and seems to loose power
My car seems to run excellent otherwise, and this seems to only be a problem when I try and lauch the car - getting the RPM's past 1800 is NOT a problem during normal driving - I can put my foot into it and it pulls hard when normal driving
Do I simply need a dyno tune to eliminate this launch problem? Or should I be looking for something else?
Thanks for your input.
Phil
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 1
From: Rugby North Dakota
THANKS, both Berry & Phil (and welcome back Phil, I was pullin' for ya )
I'll try what both of you said, and I'll post here to let you know the results - I'm getting close to my 500 miles on my rear gears, so very soon I can mash the pedal and hold it there -
Actually, it was a used rear end that I installed, so I'm assuming that I really don't need to put 500 miles on it, but I'm trying to error on the caution side for just a little
) I'll try what both of you said, and I'll post here to let you know the results - I'm getting close to my 500 miles on my rear gears, so very soon I can mash the pedal and hold it there -
Actually, it was a used rear end that I installed, so I'm assuming that I really don't need to put 500 miles on it, but I'm trying to error on the caution side for just a little
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,294
Likes: 2
From: Suffolk, Long Island NY
Originally Posted by Phil97SVT
Don't foot brake it. Let the car idle at the light and stab the gas on the 3rd yellow, you will always get better 60's and RTs that way.
Phil
Phil
