Clutch swap tips
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Clutch swap tips
I have my motor out of the car, installing a new clutch and flywheel assembly (one of the new OZ dual disk clutches from ECS 
). I have the flywheel torqued on according to the service manual right now, and have a new pilot bearing in hand. Might as well replace it while I'm in there, right?
First, the service manual indicates use of a special bearing removal tool that looks like a hodgepodge of coat hangers. Are there any tried/true methods of removing the pilot for DIY guys without this tool?
Second, other than bolting everything up according to the service manual instructions, are there any tips on how to make sure this is done once and done right? For example, the back side of the crank where the pilot goes appears to be covered in an old layer of grease. I'm not sure if this is accumulated clutch material or if this area should be intentionally (lightly) lubricated with something. Just looking for tips like that.
Also, I'm adding remote bleeder hoses to the master, so I can bleed after install -- but I am assuming a lot of you bleed all the fluid during a clutch swap, right? Anything special involved there? Sounds like a simple two man bleeding job according to the service manual.
). I have the flywheel torqued on according to the service manual right now, and have a new pilot bearing in hand. Might as well replace it while I'm in there, right?First, the service manual indicates use of a special bearing removal tool that looks like a hodgepodge of coat hangers. Are there any tried/true methods of removing the pilot for DIY guys without this tool?
Second, other than bolting everything up according to the service manual instructions, are there any tips on how to make sure this is done once and done right? For example, the back side of the crank where the pilot goes appears to be covered in an old layer of grease. I'm not sure if this is accumulated clutch material or if this area should be intentionally (lightly) lubricated with something. Just looking for tips like that.
Also, I'm adding remote bleeder hoses to the master, so I can bleed after install -- but I am assuming a lot of you bleed all the fluid during a clutch swap, right? Anything special involved there? Sounds like a simple two man bleeding job according to the service manual.
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From: Fort Wayne IN
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Originally Posted by diynoob
First, the service manual indicates use of a special bearing removal tool that looks like a hodgepodge of coat hangers. Are there any tried/true methods of removing the pilot for DIY guys without this tool?
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Vancouver Washington
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
Pack the hollow area behind the area with grease (take a grease gun with a straight fitting, stick it in there, fill until grease comes out around the end of the hose), take a wood dowel just small enough to fit into the hole in the center of the pilot bearing and place the tip just inside the hole (get your mind out of the gutter). Take a hammer and drive that puppy home. Once all the way in, remove, and repeat as necessary until the grease had forced the pilot bearing forward and out.
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From: Fort Wayne IN
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Originally Posted by Last C5
OH, GOOD GRIEF! You can't do this. This is way too professional and entirely too easy. First you have to buy six or seven new pulling tools, none of which will work, then resort to easy outs and chisels and slowly work your way down to homemade tools until the damn bearing just falls out in pieces. Tradition must be maintained!!
Sounds like you've been there before too.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 3
From: Lakemoor IL
I have been told not to do that grease method explained above because there is a seal that can be blown out on LSx motors.
I rented a blind hole puller set from Autozone and I had mine out in less than 2 minutes...not a big hassle at all. Heres a pic of the tool.
I rented a blind hole puller set from Autozone and I had mine out in less than 2 minutes...not a big hassle at all. Heres a pic of the tool.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Ellicott City MD
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
Sounds like you've been there before too.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
I have been told not to do that grease method explained above because there is a seal that can be blown out on LSx motors.
I rented a blind hole puller set from Autozone and I had mine out in less than 2 minutes...not a big hassle at all. Heres a pic of the tool.
I rented a blind hole puller set from Autozone and I had mine out in less than 2 minutes...not a big hassle at all. Heres a pic of the tool.
The manual specifically warns againts using the grease method for this reason. We borrowed the same type of puller for free from Pep Boys when we did our last clutch.
The left illustration shows the plug/seal.
Last edited by Patches; Sep 28, 2006 at 07:47 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 2
From: Bardstown Kentucky
Originally Posted by diynoob
I have my motor out of the car, installing a new clutch and flywheel assembly (one of the new OZ dual disk clutches from ECS ). I have the flywheel torqued on according to the service manual right now, and have a new pilot bearing in hand. Might as well replace it while I'm in there, right?
First, the service manual indicates use of a special bearing removal tool that looks like a hodgepodge of coat hangers. Are there any tried/true methods of removing the pilot for DIY guys without this tool?
Second, other than bolting everything up according to the service manual instructions, are there any tips on how to make sure this is done once and done right? For example, the back side of the crank where the pilot goes appears to be covered in an old layer of grease. I'm not sure if this is accumulated clutch material or if this area should be intentionally (lightly) lubricated with something. Just looking for tips like that.
Also, I'm adding remote bleeder hoses to the master, so I can bleed after install -- but I am assuming a lot of you bleed all the fluid during a clutch swap, right? Anything special involved there? Sounds like a simple two man bleeding job according to the service manual.
). I have the flywheel torqued on according to the service manual right now, and have a new pilot bearing in hand. Might as well replace it while I'm in there, right?First, the service manual indicates use of a special bearing removal tool that looks like a hodgepodge of coat hangers. Are there any tried/true methods of removing the pilot for DIY guys without this tool?
Second, other than bolting everything up according to the service manual instructions, are there any tips on how to make sure this is done once and done right? For example, the back side of the crank where the pilot goes appears to be covered in an old layer of grease. I'm not sure if this is accumulated clutch material or if this area should be intentionally (lightly) lubricated with something. Just looking for tips like that.
Also, I'm adding remote bleeder hoses to the master, so I can bleed after install -- but I am assuming a lot of you bleed all the fluid during a clutch swap, right? Anything special involved there? Sounds like a simple two man bleeding job according to the service manual.
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From: Fort Wayne IN
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Interesting. I wasn't aware of a seal that could be blown out on the LS1 from using the great method. Learn something every day!! 
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio TX
been there done that and have the scars to prove it. go to the auto parts store and rent the proper tool (some stores will loan you the tool with a refundable deposit) just not worth it on our gun drilled cranks.
More Than Zero
More Than Zero
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,586
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From: Bardstown Kentucky
Originally Posted by M_T_0
been there done that and have the scars to prove it. go to the auto parts store and rent the proper tool (some stores will loan you the tool with a refundable deposit) just not worth it on our gun drilled cranks.
More Than Zero
More Than Zero
It has to be the most cost effective easiest way to do it. I have removed one from my 99 with the bread and one from my brothers 2000 with the tool. I actually prefer the bread method. FWIW I used a metal dow rod, 2 pieces of bread, a medium sized hammer, and some patience 
It will push right out. The tool method kind of scared me because you dont know whats happening on the other side of the bearing. But anyways there it is and yes it works especially in a pinch.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
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From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Don't use grease, bread or *anything* else to "push" the bearing out; this isn't an old-school SB (damn, now I'm starting to sound like E.T., SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!
)
Anyway, please use a pilot bearing puller; don’t create an issue when there currently is none.
It's ironic that you mentioned "because you dont know whats happening on the other side of the bearing"; that's precisely why you DON'T want to use this method!.
)Anyway, please use a pilot bearing puller; don’t create an issue when there currently is none.
It's ironic that you mentioned "because you dont know whats happening on the other side of the bearing"; that's precisely why you DON'T want to use this method!.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Sep 29, 2006 at 09:55 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 766
Likes: 0
From: Mooresville NC
Yikes!! No! No grease/wet paper towel on an LS1. That is simply a thin aluminum 'plug' behind the pilot bearing. You can push it right back through the crankshaft and then you're making it a much larger job! 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 2
From: Bardstown Kentucky
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
Don't use grease, bread or *anything* else to "push" the bearing out; this isn't an old-school SB (damn, now I'm starting to sound like E.T., SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!! )
Anyway, please use a pilot bearing puller; don’t create an issue when there currently is none.
It's ironic that you mentioned "because you dont know whats happening on the other side of the bearing"; that's precisely why you DON'T want to use this method!.
)Anyway, please use a pilot bearing puller; don’t create an issue when there currently is none.
It's ironic that you mentioned "because you dont know whats happening on the other side of the bearing"; that's precisely why you DON'T want to use this method!.
I guess opinions are like a$$holes, everybody has one. But I have done this on many cars and it works like a charm. And I havent had to buy an expensive puller from the MAC man. But I guess thats what this forum is for... to take a stab at everybody elses opinions and criticize them. Oh wait! No its not, maybe you should acknowledge that it could be done that way but you recommend the puller.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Originally Posted by 95BlueBomber
By that I meant what the other side of the bearing puller is doing... Spreading out and catching the sides of the crankshaft.
I guess opinions are like a$$holes, everybody has one. But I have done this on many cars and it works like a charm. And I havent had to buy an expensive puller from the MAC man. But I guess thats what this forum is for... to take a stab at everybody elses opinions and criticize them. Oh wait! No its not, maybe you should acknowledge that it could be done that way but you recommend the puller.
I guess opinions are like a$$holes, everybody has one. But I have done this on many cars and it works like a charm. And I havent had to buy an expensive puller from the MAC man. But I guess thats what this forum is for... to take a stab at everybody elses opinions and criticize them. Oh wait! No its not, maybe you should acknowledge that it could be done that way but you recommend the puller.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Sep 29, 2006 at 05:53 PM.
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Yeah, so getting this bearing out has turned out to be a saga. I picked up a pilot bearing removal tool from Discount Auto last night which was worthless. I spent an hour trying to use it to get the bearing out and all I ended up doing was breaking the tool. It just wasn't strong enough to pull the bearing out from its interference fit.
I did manage to locate an Auto Zone within 30 minutes of me and they have the blind hole puller. Nobody else around here even knows what one of those are. You should see the expression on their faces when I ask for one, they think it's some kind of prank.
The tool is $140 to rent, so it better work and better not break
Amazing that I am looking at a simple, small bearing, and thinking that my motor drop and turbo install so far has been easier than just getting this one piece out.
It's all about having the right tool...
I did manage to locate an Auto Zone within 30 minutes of me and they have the blind hole puller. Nobody else around here even knows what one of those are. You should see the expression on their faces when I ask for one, they think it's some kind of prank.
The tool is $140 to rent, so it better work and better not break
Amazing that I am looking at a simple, small bearing, and thinking that my motor drop and turbo install so far has been easier than just getting this one piece out.It's all about having the right tool...
Thread Starter
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by keliente
Yikes!! No! No grease/wet paper towel on an LS1. That is simply a thin aluminum 'plug' behind the pilot bearing. You can push it right back through the crankshaft and then you're making it a much larger job!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I only had to put a deposit on the tool with my credit card in case I didn't bring it back. I got a complete refund - and thus free loan of the tool - when I brought it back. A lot of parts stores have free loaner policies for specialty tools like this. Hopefully, you can find one near you for future similar situations.
Thread Starter
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From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Yes, sorry, the tool cost me a $140 deposit, fully refunded when I return the tool. I just picked it up 15 minutes ago and had the pilot bearing out in roughly 2-3 minutes.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is the way to do it. I am sure that the bread/grease method will work, but it's like playing Russian Roulette IMHO. If you can find a local shop that will rent you one for free like Autozone, might as well do it.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is the way to do it. I am sure that the bread/grease method will work, but it's like playing Russian Roulette IMHO. If you can find a local shop that will rent you one for free like Autozone, might as well do it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,226
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From: Lakemoor IL
Originally Posted by diynoob
Yes, sorry, the tool cost me a $140 deposit, fully refunded when I return the tool. I just picked it up 15 minutes ago and had the pilot bearing out in roughly 2-3 minutes.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is the way to do it. I am sure that the bread/grease method will work, but it's like playing Russian Roulette IMHO. If you can find a local shop that will rent you one for free like Autozone, might as well do it.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is the way to do it. I am sure that the bread/grease method will work, but it's like playing Russian Roulette IMHO. If you can find a local shop that will rent you one for free like Autozone, might as well do it.
