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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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Default A new CLB question

The car is in the garage ('98 A4) with a service lock message. I coudn't get rod to release from the lock plate. I took the dash apart and took the column lock apart and removed the lock pin. I still get the 'Service Column Lock" message and the car will only move about a foot. Will installing the CLB take car of the problem? The car had been taken back to the dealer twice in 98 and early 99 but the dealer just replaced the locking actuator, I think this was the fix before the other "fixes" cam out. So, can I install the bypass to get the car to work?

Oh, the column lock motor stopped making the noise it makes when it engages or retracts.

Last edited by Xlr8tnC5; Oct 9, 2006 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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I called COH and asked them the same question. They told me no, I had to have it taken to the dealer and fixed and than put on the CLB. It's now $600 later, but the car seems fine.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by seawolf
I called COH and asked them the same question. They told me no, I had to have it taken to the dealer and fixed and than put on the CLB. It's now $600 later, but the car seems fine.

What did they charge you $600 bucks for? Was it not covered under the recall?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8tnC5
What did they charge you $600 bucks for? Was it not covered under the recall?

They like eff you even though it is their fault.


To answer the question - the Message cannot be present for the CLB to work. You will need to try everything you can to get the message to go away and then install the CLB otherwise it is back to the dealer.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Well, the thing that caused all of this was apparently the fact that a cell went in the battery which caused the computers to get messed. According to the Chevy tech the C-5 is very sensitive to voltage flux. Replaced battery and than did all upgrades to recall (they were done under warrenty) and than the accuator was found to be toasted and had to buy that and have it installed. The next day the right door stopped comm with the rest of the car and that module had to be replaced. Now I am trying to find out what I have to do to install the CLB. I am fighting with Chevy over this, but don't have too much hope.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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At this point, there are no NEW column lock questions.

The actuator does not have to work for the CLB or the GM Harness K relay to satisfy the BCM and keep the fuel from being shut off. '97 and '98 models are more sensitive to the type of relay used, but you should be able to get one to work. If you install one of the bypasses and you still get the message, you may need to check what relays you have in the BCM. Cscokd can send you a document with details on how to check that.
A quote from John,
"This extra relay we've all been talking about located near the BCM was installed on MN6 cars only (I think). It appears to be a feeble attempt by GM to prevent the column lock motor from receiving a LOCK command while driving. While the column lock motor was connected and working, it's response is so slow (seconds) that it would never see these timing glitches on the UNLOCK or LOCK signals. Then GM installed the K Harness and removed the lock plate. I'm coming to the conclusion that they left the column lock motor connected because it acted as a filter of sorts to dampen out any relay switching glitches which allowed the K Harness to operate more reliably. Unfortunately they chose a cheap relay and their efforts have been in vain. The problem is that the K Harness AND the CLB switch in milliseconds compared the column lock motor. So any switching glitches on the LOCK or UNLOCK signals may cause the CLB or K Harness to unintentionally change states. This is why many have observed that their CLB switches as expected but then immediately switches back again. When this happens, the BCM becomes confused, displays error messages and commands the PCM to shut off the fuel. I also know many of the later model MN6 cars came from the factory with the extra relay already installed. I'm not sure what year it was added to factory built cars. So my advice to this point has been to remove it and bypass it. In nearly every case removing this extra relay has solved any CLB operational problems. Why do some cars with the extra relay work with the CLB and some don't? My thinking is variations in relay sensitivity, switching speed, temperature, etc. Get rid of this relay. Use the KISS technique - "Keep It Simple Stupid". I hope this helps explain things a bit better. As always, I'm glad to help if you get stuck...just email or PM me.
Cheers,
John"
mailto:john_neese@msn.com

Some dealers have been telling customers that the actuators have to be replaced, which is not covered under the recall, and is probably what cost seawolf $600.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Oct 9, 2006 at 01:59 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Tex, PM sent
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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What TEXHAWKO says is true except it wasn't what the dealer told me, it was what Chevy told him. The tech did all the updates and it still wouldn't run. He called Chevy tech service ( I was there while he called)to get them to tell what to do and they said to look at the actuator and tell them either its color or serial number (I don't remember which) and then they told him that was the "wrong" one, but not covered, and it had to be replaced. He just followed Chevy directions. As to what it does, according to the tech, is tell the computer that it is there and working. Without it working he said it will always code. I am just telling what I was told. This dealer has always been great with me and I think they are just as confused as most of us. As I said, I would love to just take out what I don't need and put in the CLB, but I can't find out, with all that has been written, exactly how to do that. By the way mine is a '02 MN6.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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It's to bad you are having this problem but as many have said here you need to get the CLB and get it installed before it becomes an issue. I admit I ordered the CLB and left it in the garage for 6 months because I figured "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but that does not apply since the C5's column lock comes broke when we get it from the factory. So after reading a lot of threads like yours I installed it. So you guys out there reading this get the CLB and be done with it. I know this doesn't help you but maybe it will help others.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8tnC5
I took the dash apart and took the column lock apart and removed the lock pin.
Oh, the column lock motor stopped making the noise it makes when it engages or retracts.
How did you remove the lockpin? DId you just cut the pin off, or did you remove the whole actuator?
The dealer might still do the recall on the automatics, which was to remove the lockplate and install the GM Harness K between the actuator and the main wiring harness. I have read where some forum member installed the GM harness on a 98 model, left the actuator disconnected and it still worked, so you should not need a working actuator to keep the fuel from being cut off.
Check this out....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=column+lock
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by seawolf
What TEXHAWKO says is true except it wasn't what the dealer told me, it was what Chevy told him. The tech did all the updates and it still wouldn't run. He called Chevy tech service ( I was there while he called)to get them to tell what to do and they said to look at the actuator and tell them either its color or serial number (I don't remember which) and then they told him that was the "wrong" one, but not covered, and it had to be replaced. He just followed Chevy directions. As to what it does, according to the tech, is tell the computer that it is there and working. Without it working he said it will always code. I am just telling what I was told. This dealer has always been great with me and I think they are just as confused as most of us. As I said, I would love to just take out what I don't need and put in the CLB, but I can't find out, with all that has been written, exactly how to do that. By the way mine is a '02 MN6.
Are you sure the tech did not replace the relay harness and not the actuator? GM had some early problems with premature failure on the relay harnesses. The original black relays were good, then GM changed part numbers and the new kits had white relays. The white relays were prone to failure. I installed one of the original kits with the black relays on my 04 Z06 a couple of years ago, before GM decided to use the same fix on all C5s, not just the automatics, and have not had any problems.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Right on the job order the tech has "called TAC case #9193925. Inspect date codes on lock motor. Date code was prior to 1-03. Order new lock motor. Install new motor, inspect grounds, had to pull fuses to clear the BCM from lockup. System now operating as designed" Working great right now, don't know if I am brave enough to start messing around again. Am trying to get Chevy to at least pay for some of it.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by seawolf
Right on the job order the tech has "called TAC case #9193925. Inspect date codes on lock motor. Date code was prior to 1-03. Order new lock motor. Install new motor, inspect grounds, had to pull fuses to clear the BCM from lockup. System now operating as designed" Working great right now, don't know if I am brave enough to start messing around again. Am trying to get Chevy to at least pay for some of it.
So your lock motor stopped working?
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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I guess. Apparently those before 1-03 had quite a few problems. I still think the bad battery caused all of this, but no proof yet.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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So, what do you think about this, I get a CLB, remove the positive cable to the battery. Then, install the CLB and hook the battery back up. Then, remove the fuses to sync up the BCM and the CLB. Do you think that will work? Keep in mind the car thinks the column lock pin is extended and I can't get it to retract because the lock motor is not working.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8tnC5
So, what do you think about this, I get a CLB, remove the positive cable to the battery. Then, install the CLB and hook the battery back up. Then, remove the fuses to sync up the BCM and the CLB. Do you think that will work? Keep in mind the car thinks the column lock pin is extended and I can't get it to retract because the lock motor is not working.
The actuator will be disconnected after you install the CLB, and it is likely that the BCM will sync up by itself after a couple of ignition cycles and receiving a signal from the CLB relay.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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*UPDATE*

I installed the CLB from COH, pulled the 2 fuses and waited a few minutes. Turn the key on and the "SERVICE COLUMN" and "PULL KEY" messages were gone! Pulling the fuses sync'd the BCM to the CLB. Drove the car and no fuel shut-off. Long story short it looks like you can install the CLB and it will work with messages being displayed and the lock motor does not have to be functioning for the CLB to work as long as the BCM and CLB are on the same page. You DO have to have the lock pin disengaged from the steering wheel but you can do that by taking the steering wheel cover off and removing the torx bolt from the column lock and letting the rod fall out of the back. TEXHAWK0, thanks for all the PM's!!
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