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Engine cooling problems, need help

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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LS6 RX7
Most likely there is still air in the system. There is a specific process for removing air in the service manual.

Something like:

1. Leaving the overflow tank cap off, Start engine & bring the Coolant temp to 170*. Add coolant if necessary. NOTE when TStat opens if there is air in the system it will burp and overflow. BE CAREFUL. DO NOT HAVE YOUR HANDS OR FACE near the overflow tank filler neck.
2. Reinstall cap and pressurize system.
3. Rev engine to 3500 RPM for 1 minute
4. Rock the revs between 1000 - 3500 RPM repeadidly for 1 minute.
5 Temps should be up to 220*
6. Shut off engine and let cool slightly
7. After 2-3 minutes SLOWLY and CAREFULLY remove cap to depressurize system.
8. Note fluid level and add again if necessary.

REPEAT until no more fluid is necessary after cooling down.

NOTE adding 2 pints of RED LINE Water Wetter will help in removing air.

ALSO remember to cycle the heater and A/C during the last couple of hot runs.
There is no heater control valve thus the heater core has a constant flow of coolant going through it so you do not need to cycle the A/C system since all it does is redirect air through or around the heater core.

Bill
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 06:47 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by robertp
Today while stopped in traffic because of road construction, I noticed my temp going up to 230 and than back down to 220. It kept doing this and never got hotter than 230 degrees. Outside temp was 86 degrees at the time. Sould I also be suspect of a problem? When I got moving it went back down to about 180.
No your ok that is completely normal...
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 09:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LS6 RX7
Most likely there is still air in the system. There is a specific process for removing air in the service manual.
Correct, you got it close...

Phil

*start car w/ radiator tank cap off.
*let car idle for 1 minute
*install cap
*cycle car from idle to 3000 rpms in 30 second intervals until the coolant temp gets over 195 (for the t-stat to open)
*then turn off car
*slowly relieve pressure from radiator tank then remove cap
*start car
*let idle for 1 minute
.... then put the cap on and do it all over again... the manual says to do this 3 times then you're good.

I've swapped coolant 3 times now and never had a cooling problem.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 10:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Correct, you got it close...

Phil

*start car w/ radiator tank cap off.
*let car idle for 1 minute
*install cap
*cycle car from idle to 3000 rpms in 30 second intervals until the coolant temp gets over 195 (for the t-stat to open)
*then turn off car
*slowly relieve pressure from radiator tank then remove cap
*start car
*let idle for 1 minute
.... then put the cap on and do it all over again... the manual says to do this 3 times then you're good.

I've swapped coolant 3 times now and never had a cooling problem.
I had to burp the system a couple of months ago.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:39 AM
  #25  
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I loosened up the crossover tube and it took almost a gallon of coolant, temps were steady @ 175-180. Thanks again guys!
Phil
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:42 AM
  #26  
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^ Sweet... but what's the crossover tube?
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Phil97SVT
I loosened up the crossover tube and it took almost a gallon of coolant, temps were steady @ 175-180. Thanks again guys!
Phil
Trapped air.. I win, I win. Does that mean I get a few more bucks off of my 3.42 I want?

Glad it's fixed.
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