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Look at my last alignment #'s and see if I should make any adjustments. The casters nor the cambers on the front equal exactly, but is it too much and should I take it back? My Z was lowered on stock bolts and I'm running 19's on the front and 20's on the rear. The tech kept stating that the difference in the front wheel caster was necessary.
I would take it back to get the front camber, caster and the front/rear toe to be equal.
Your toe should also be equal from side to side, about .03 positive on each front wheel, and 0.0 for each rear.
I would set front camber at about -.6 and front caster at 6.5 for both sides.
From your final specs, my perception is that the guy was having a bad day, or was a little lazy. My car is very sensitive to alignment specs, and yours should track/handle a lot better with better attention to detail.
Look at my last alignment #'s and see if I should make any adjustments. The casters nor the cambers on the front equal exactly, but is it too much and should I take it back? My Z was lowered on stock bolts and I'm running 19's on the front and 20's on the rear. The tech kept stating that the difference in the front wheel caster was necessary.
as said above it will probably be better if it's equal left to right
the caster is some times ofset to compensate for crowned roads (it pulls down hill) if equal also there should be a slight toe in on the rear to eliminate any possibility of toe out on braking (make it squirley if it toes out under braking)
the specs you gave are probably within the limits however you are paying to have it right not merely close! now that said it's probably why some techs don't like working on vettes (we want it right)
I forgot to mention that I don't race or track my car, mainly street and a little "spirited" driving. With that being said, would you still have it changed?
as said above it will probably be better if it's equal left to right
the caster is some times ofset to compensate for crowned roads (it pulls down hill) if equal also there should be a slight toe in on the rear to eliminate any possibility of toe out on braking (make it squirley if it toes out under braking)
the specs you gave are probably within the limits however you are paying to have it right not merely close! now that said it's probably why some techs don't like working on vettes (we want it right)
That's why he said he put the caster difference, to compensate for crowned roads.
I forgot to mention that I don't race or track my car, mainly street and a little "spirited" driving. With that being said, would you still have it changed?
At the point you are at if it drives nice I'd leave it alone. To my way of thinking it's not worth aggravating a good service tech if you are not racing (track) who knows when you might need their help?
If I left the settings as they are, what could I expect in regards to tire wear and handling? The car seems to handle great with no drifting left or right.
If I left the settings as they are, what could I expect in regards to tire wear and handling? The car seems to handle great with no drifting left or right.
The biggest thing with tire wear (if alignment is correct) is the driver I have heard of 40-50 thousand miles wear with no wheel spin or hard cornering and the opposite 2,000 when you take off hard all the time.
Now for me it looks like about 20-30,000 per set I'm on my third set on this car! the first two getting the alignment right lasted 20,000 this one might make 35,000