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Popped headlight bulbs

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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Default Popped headlight bulbs

Has anyone had the problem of popped headlight bulbs ?? Within 5 min. and only after being on for about 10 min. total; I had 2 9006 80W low beam bulbs explode and 1 9005 100W high beam explode.
I shut them off before the final bulb had a chance to blow up.

I've replaced them all with stock bulbs, for now and no problem so far with about 1 hour on them.

Just wondering if anyone has had this problem ... what do you think, cheap bulbs ?? They were not a name brand that I've ever heard of.
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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did you touch the bulbs? if so,the oil from your body caused them to blow.if not,check to see if you are overcharging[you should also have a fault for overcharging]
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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I was careful not to touch the bulbs.

I don't think I did touch the bulbs and I am certian that I didn't touch all 3 burst bulbs.

I have checked the voltage and it is charging at 14.5 V, no more.

No faults on overcharging.

Thanks for the reply.
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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I use latex gloves when putting in halogen bulbs.

You didn't drive in rain did you? If so you may have a leak in headlight. Those higher wattage bulbs can melt the plastic lenses.
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
I use latex gloves when putting in halogen bulbs.

You didn't drive in rain did you? If so you may have a leak in headlight. Those higher wattage bulbs can melt the plastic lenses.
No rain, they were only on for about 10 min. total before they blew.

They did melt the plastic lens when they broke, had to replace those.

Good idea on the gloves .... what bulbs should I use so I don't melt the plastic lens ... ??

Thanks
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Secret237
No rain, they were only on for about 10 min. total before they blew.

They did melt the plastic lens when they broke, had to replace those.

Good idea on the gloves .... what bulbs should I use so I don't melt the plastic lens ... ??

Thanks

You really should stick with the factory wattage. I use silverstars, they are whiter and seem brighter.

You can go to higher wattage bulbs IF you install European Headlights (they are glass), which have a better pattern. They use a single bulb that has high/low filaments in them. You may have to beef up the wiring if you increase the wattage much, wouldn't want to catch the car on fire!
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
I use silverstars, they are whiter and seem brighter.
Ditto! Most of those aftermarket blue bulbs aren't very good quality. I have blown them up in several different cars. I went ahead and sprung for the Silverstars for my Z06 and have never had a problem.

Dave
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 03:08 AM
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Not sure what the cutoff is but I had to get the hi wattage harness to allow me to go to 135/90s in my Euro headlights.

If the headlights are dry it may be a current issue??
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
If the headlights are dry it may be a current issue??
If the voltage is the same, the current is determined by the bulb itself. I suspect they were just bad bulbs then. No other explanation I can think of.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:16 AM
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Current draw is normally determined by the device drawing the current. Generally, you install your fuses at the start of the circuit to protect your wiring. If you think of it in terms of a house, the circuit breaker is up at the panel where the power enters the house. In a 15 amp circuit you have 14 gauge wire that runs out to the plugs. If you plug two space heaters at 1500 watts each into the circuit, the breaker will trip. Same concept with the lights too much wattage and you should start blowing fuses. Fuses are normally sized to the wire, since that is technically what they protect. Draw too much current across too small a wire gauge and you will likely have a fire. I hear people all the time talking about how they just installed a bigger fuse and voila, more power. Theory works right up until the meltdown.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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First of all 80W low and 100W high are not street legal - I notice a lot of people don't care who they blind at night but thought I'd point that out.

Anyway the higher wattage results in higher current and temperature especially at the contact points in the socket. You're putting 45% more current through the circuit with an 80W low bulb. The increase heat must be too much for those bulbs to handle.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JC in XTC5
First of all 80W low and 100W high are not street legal - I notice a lot of people don't care who they blind at night but thought I'd point that out.

Anyway the higher wattage results in higher current and temperature especially at the contact points in the socket. You're putting 45% more current through the circuit with an 80W low bulb. The increase heat must be too much for those bulbs to handle.
My hi wattage bulbs are fitted in Euro headlights. The beam is aimed and has a distinct cut off unlike the stock lights which just "flood" the beam.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
My hi wattage bulbs are fitted in Euro headlights. The beam is aimed and has a distinct cut off unlike the stock lights which just "flood" the beam.



Been running this set up as well for years and have never been flashed by on coming traffic!!
Adjust the aim!!
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