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Need info- my 98 auto has new GSD3s and wheels and has been balanced very carefully. At 70 mph I begin to get a rhythmic vibration from the rear (feel it in the seat not steering wheel). It becomes more pronounced at 90mph and more constant. Has anyone out there had a similar situation. It became noticeable on an extremely smooth stretch of I/S 40 and not out on California's cobblestone roads.
Man… This is popping up a lot lately! I had the same vibration after new wheels were installed and it was a bad tire. The tire shop couldn’t find anything wrong but a Road Force Balance machine found the bad RR tire. If it wasn’t road force balanced, have that done. If you still have the vibration have all your wheel bearings checked. Next I would check the torque tube… there’s a procedure for “centering” the torque tube (link below) but unless you’ve had it off I doubt if that’s the problem.
My vibration is in the seat only, and only happens around 90-95mph.
I've got chrome repros, but the guy that balanced them said he didn't have a problem balancing them.. Hmm.. Now I'm wondering if I should go somewhere else and get them re-balanced.
Does the torque tube need to be centered? I recently had mine off, and there were no alignment dots.....I put them back on by just slipping them back in....the vibration still was there before and after i pulled the arms, this was the first time they had been off....I was starting to suspect that flat spot from sitting....but it seems like the vibration would come at any speed if that were the case...anyhow I hope you find your problem Burgie since i have it too, ill let you know if i come across anything........One other thing i noticed is that this problem started after most people changed their stockers to aftermarket wheels without the runflats.......which is my case also
Last edited by Ducati749; Nov 27, 2006 at 01:36 PM.
Rims could be bent (I had that problem with my magnesiums), or the tire is out of round. Could also be wheel bearing, CV shaft, etc.
You can visually inspect the tire/rim by jacking the rear of the car up and supporting properly, so the tires dont touch, shut off the Trac Control, then put it in 3rd gear and let it idle forwards. Do not breath the exhaust. Then, carefully watch the rims and tires. If there is any singificant whomp or variation you'll see it as the wheel rotates.
Road force balance = Hunter GSP9700. www.gsp9700.com to find one. I warn you though, just cause a shop has one, doesn't mean they know how to operate it properly. Don't ask me how I know
Thanks for the info on the Road Forced Balance, but just what and how is that done. Most of the shops around Havasu use the Computerized Spin Balance-
Most of the Discount chain of tire stores have the road force equipment. If not a few calls to your area tire shops will locate one for you. Also the internet lists the closest road force equipment near you by zip code.
Rims could be bent (I had that problem with my magnesiums), or the tire is out of round. Could also be wheel bearing, CV shaft, etc.
You can visually inspect the tire/rim by jacking the rear of the car up and supporting properly, so the tires dont touch, shut off the Trac Control, then put it in 3rd gear and let it idle forwards. Do not breath the exhaust. Then, carefully watch the rims and tires. If there is any singificant whomp or variation you'll see it as the wheel rotates.
Road force balance = Hunter GSP9700. www.gsp9700.com to find one. I warn you though, just cause a shop has one, doesn't mean they know how to operate it properly. Don't ask me how I know
Does the torque tube need to be centered? I recently had mine off, and there were no alignment dots.....I put them back on by just slipping them back in....the vibration still was there before and after i pulled the arms, this was the first time they had been off....I was starting to suspect that flat spot from sitting....but it seems like the vibration would come at any speed if that were the case...anyhow I hope you find your problem Burgie since i have it too, ill let you know if i come across anything........One other thing i noticed is that this problem started after most people changed their stockers to aftermarket wheels without the runflats.......which is my case also
OK You've got me confused!
1st according to the post I referenced above, if the Torque Tube (TT) is it removed it should be “re-centered” by the procedure shown in that post. No alignment dots or such, as the drive-train spins the TT will automatically come to center, then just tighten the clamp back up.
2nd You are talking about “them” and “arms” are we talking about the wheel to differential half-shafts or the TT???? The half-shafts do not require any type of centering or alignment.
I had chrome Y2Ks installed with the original run flats. I suspect that the tire shop that installed the wheels messed up one of the run flats getting it off and on, can’t prove it but….
In retrospect, I changed from the run-flats to non and the new wheels. The run flats were hard and appeared to pick up every bump in the road or were out of balance as the mirror constantly vibrated. This car may have had it all along. I'm still going to take it in for a road forced balance. Thanks for the replies and will keep searching for an answer.
In retrospect, I changed from the run-flats to non and the new wheels. The run flats were hard and appeared to pick up every bump in the road or were out of balance as the mirror constantly vibrated. This car may have had it all along. I'm still going to take it in for a road forced balance. Thanks for the replies and will keep searching for an answer.
Could it be that since the c5 is so heavy and that the suspension is pretty stiff...is the reason they used run flats...could it be that non run flats develop flat spots easier?...seems odd that so many people would have bent rims or bad tires.... but then again if it were flat spots they would be felt at any speed right?
Out here I/S 40 is pretty flat and smooth unlike those Madonna Roads (concrete) in California and thus balance problems are more likely to rear their ugly head.
As for flat spots developing while sitting, both the run flats and non-run flats will develop flat spots if sitting long enough. Most of our driving is on the weekends with the vet, thus I don't even pay attention to the first twenty miles or so of balance issues.
I've located a forced road balance outfit here in Havasu for 20 bucks a wheel (YIKES) but his remark was the machine cost $14000.00 I told him I didn't want to buy it, just make sure it worked. We'll see him next month for the rears- I'll advise.
how to check for excessive play in bearings, etc...
Hey, that's the first time I've had one of my posts referenced, I feel so proud !
Who can give us some info on how to check for excess play in the bearings and half shafts/joints? I'm still trying to find someone local to Albany NY that has an old set of crap tires that I can try, but in the mean time I'm thinking I can jack it up and check for other obvious things. Burgie, did you have any other work done? Mine started when I had my rear pumpkin replaced with 3.42 (from 2.73). BTW mine is also a 98 auto.
Mine started the 'rhythmic vibration', as described in the 1st post, following a trip over a curb(showing out and lost it). I am convinced that the wheel bearings must be the culprit!? The car seems to get the vibration at speeds over 60MPH and sort of cycles. It does get worse and more constant at higher speeds.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced and it made no difference. I also had the car realigned, which it needed after the incident, but it did not fix the 'rhythmic vibration'. I am also noticing increased vibration during braking as well. The braking issue did not come up immediately following the incident, but has gradually come about since.
Mine started the 'rhythmic vibration', as described in the 1st post, following a trip over a curb(showing out and lost it). I am convinced that the wheel bearings must be the culprit!? The car seems to get the vibration at speeds over 60MPH and sort of cycles. It does get worse and more constant at higher speeds.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced and it made no difference. I also had the car realigned, which it needed after the incident, but it did not fix the 'rhythmic vibration'. I am also noticing increased vibration during braking as well. The braking issue did not come up immediately following the incident, but has gradually come about since.
I switched the front and rears (I run 17X9.5 all around) and there was no change.
Upon visual inspection there was only a tiny knick on one of the rims. since the rims are repos and made out of some heavy junk alloy, I dont think this is the case. I did hit one hard enough one time to bend it, but it didnt really bend, it just split.
Out here I/S 40 is pretty flat and smooth unlike those Madonna Roads (concrete) in California and thus balance problems are more likely to rear their ugly head.
As for flat spots developing while sitting, both the run flats and non-run flats will develop flat spots if sitting long enough. Most of our driving is on the weekends with the vet, thus I don't even pay attention to the first twenty miles or so of balance issues.
I've located a forced road balance outfit here in Havasu for 20 bucks a wheel (YIKES) but his remark was the machine cost $14000.00 I told him I didn't want to buy it, just make sure it worked. We'll see him next month for the rears- I'll advise.
Hi, did you get your tires road force balanced yet? Just curious.
Not yet, plan on doing it this week. Last week was in Prescott Valley with the grandson and his toys. Now I can get back to my own. Will keep ya posted on the results