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Hi,
How many different kind of Granatelli MAF Sensor on the market for 2000 C5. I saw a place sale it for 275 and other sale it for 320. Please let me know.
Finally gave up on mine. Hesitation, surging, and high rpm knock. Put my stock (custom ported,no screen)MAF back on. Problems gone and I have to say that the car is just as strong on the old SOTP A*s-o-Meter. Was not worth 275 bucks! JMHO :D :D :D
I had a GMS MAF on my 2000 A4 until I put 3.42's on it and had the PCM programmed by MTI, then I got it dyno'd. The stock MAF (without the screen) made more (5-8) hp and more (6-10 lb-ft) torque than the GMS on my car :yesnod: . If you want a used GMS MAF, come on down to San Antonio, this one is available for $150 .
I had good success with my GMS: Two things to watch out for are the levels of the modifications and the GMS calibration. They work well for stock to light modifications (air intake and exhaust). The 5% rich calibration seems to work well with the modified air intakes. I bought mine from LAPD - $280. :chevy
I also have had good success with mine. I added a Blackwing, Powerduct and Coupler, X-pipe, A&A mod and the GMS all at the same time to my A4, 3.15. After a learning period, the car now EASILY spins the tires in any temperature, with any relative humidity and on any road surface, from a standing start without any powerbraking. It didn't do that before. That's proof enough for me.
Ed
My car dynoed with a 10-15 lb/ft *loss* in power over the entire power band below 5000 RPM on my 99 with the GMS MAF. I *did* get some use out of it though. I cut the two airfoil pieces off my stock sensor element and put it into the GMS MAF ends and voila... instant [stock] ported MAF. It was a little stronger like that (I gained back about half of the 10-15 lb/ft loss) but I got some real power after getting a MAFT and tuning it in.
Since a MAFT is about the same price as a GMS MAF, if you want to do it right, just take the screen out of your stock MAF and use a MAFT to dial in the car with a scan tool.
When i called the company {granatelli} they claimed 22hp on a stock z06...Hearing that and being new with a Z, i got a real warm rush...Well after a lot of digging, i can tell you :bs From what i found, most saw no gain or lost HP..I sure wouldn't deal with a company that spreads :bs to the public...Just my 2 cents...
The GMS did not work well with the stock airbox! Best combo for me is stock MAF without screen and Donaldson filter. Launch is smooth and powerful compared to stock airbox and GMS. You can buy my '01 GMS (perfect) for $150. :D
It's confussing that for some the Granatelli MAF works and for others it's crap! My experience is that the Granatelli with dual K&M filters produces 16 more HP and lb-ft of torque than the stock MAF sensor and air box does. Maybe the increase comes from the filters and not the MAF or combination of the two. Who knows, but the combination works for me. :D :D
The jury is still out on my '01 MN6 (Vortex cold air, GMS MAF 5%, LAPD high flow duct & coupler).
It still hesitates a little below 2K (nothing major) under hairline throttle conditions-but it feels good. It does pay to clean the exposed wires (carefully) periodically...
It works great for my 2000, mods include modified Halltech intake, carbon fiber Cobra, throttle body coolant bypass, NGK spark plugs with Taylor 8mm wires, Z06 exhaust and Z06 sway bars. :D
Granatelli says that you should order your GMAF sensor calibrated for your particular configuration on your C5.
If you buy one from a dealer, make sure he orders yours from Granatelli specifying your configuration (type of air box etc.) If he grabs it off his shelf, chances are it is not going to work to its potential for you. This also applies to buying used GMAFs.
Initially they had calibration problems on the 2001 models. Make sure you do not buy one of the first units. If you do, send it back to Granatelli for re-calibration.
I had one on my 98 Z28 LS1 and when I traded for the 01 Z06, J R Granatelli let me trade in the LS1 meter for a Z06 meter and pay the difference. Both have the standard calibration and I have had no pinging or knock retard. I have no dyno numbers, but I have been satisfied with their performance. I did notice a much bigger difference in the LS1 performance. The Z28 just screamed/roared. The Z06 already breathes pretty good.
If you intend to put on a cold air intake, get the 5% rich calibrated meter according to Shawn at LAPD. I heard that you can send a GMAF back for recal but I have not had to do this.
I forgot to add that I have functional Z06 grilles as part of my mods. Whether this helps the GMS I don't know but it's one more item to add to the confusion. :confused: