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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Default home h/c install

I am thinking of doing my h/c, headers, n2o etc... at home, as I am having a very hard time coming up with the money to have a pro do it are there anythings that I should watch out for? and are there any tips to make it easier?

the new parts are:
prc stage 1 ported ls6 heads, ms4 cam, water pump, ported ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, nx wet kit and all of the goodies that go along with said mods. I will also be installing a set of tsp lt's, off road x and a new cat back.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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What are your plans for tuning?
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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It's kind of fun once you get past the steering rack removal. Actually everything goes back easier than it came out. Take your time, and follow the above instructions. There are a few differences (minor) if you have a later model.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Best advice, allow plenty of time so if you run into a problem you have time to figure it out. Also, a lot of guys have messed up their balancers lately using the wrong tools/installation methods. Careful with that part.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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your in the Marines?, if you have any questions give me call

add ARP studs, GM MLS gaskets and new LS7 lifters to the list
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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Just about to start mine too ... curious about those LS7 lifters with the recent thread or two about lifter choices with aftermarket cams.

Steering rack is the biggest headache???
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by double-oh-coupe


Just about to start mine too ... curious about those LS7 lifters with the recent thread or two about lifter choices with aftermarket cams.

Steering rack is the biggest headache???
LS7 lifters=no biggie, just the GMPP replacement for the LS1/6 lifter

any good tech will have the rack out in 10 minutes, be sure to use an 18mm flare wrench on the lines, some of them are a bit stubborn
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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use all the adive above and ls1howto and dont forget to bag and tag all the hardware, and do lots of reading on this subject, theirs more tips all over the forum, they helped me alot a few months ago when i did mine....just take your time!!!
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 05:49 AM
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The rack is no big deal, I found it quite easy to get out of the way. One trick I did was buy some vacuum caps at Autozone and then cap the lines when they come off. I only lost about 2 tablespoons of fluid. Wish I could have found plugs for the rack, then I wouldn't have lost any.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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Yeah... I am a marine, Thank you for all of your help, I hope that I get my oil pump in time to finish everything this weekend, do you think that the ls7 lifters are the best way to go?
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:00 PM
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I hate to hijack the thread but I did mine back in August and came up with a leak on the timing chain cover. CT Corvette, is it possible to remove all the timing chain cover bolts, and put more sealeant in the corners where the timing chain cover meets the block and the oil pan? I know my leak is on the passenger side, but I can't see any drips while it's running. I have a brown tint on the passenger header (under the car) and I get a thin film on the back of the car after driving it for a while. No oil on the ground under the car, but there is oil on the front leaf spring.

I'm just curious if this leak can be fixed without taking the balancer off. To me it's the worst part of the whole h/c job.

jbusmc1986 please pay attention when putting the timing cover back on or you could be in the same boat as me. LS1howto.com says to put the timing cover on without tightening the bolts, then install the balancer, then tighten the timing cover bolts. I didn't do that so this is probably caused the oil leak.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbosixx
LS1howto.com says to put the timing cover on without tightening the bolts, then install the balancer, then tighten the timing cover bolts. I didn't do that so this is probably caused the oil leak.
This part of your post makes me think that your front seal is leaking. The reason they tell you to install the cover that way is to center the seal with it's sealing surface on the balancer.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Wow, thats a good thing to keep in mind, Thanks guys... Oh, and to answer one of the earlier questions I am going to RPM in Garner NC for my tuning
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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OK, I'll buy that. I was told originally that it was probably coming from in between the oil pan and the timcover mating surfaces. I can tell you that the oil leak gets worse with rpm.
If i remember correctly the leaf spring is very close to the cover where the seal is. Maybe I can stick my fingers under there to feel for some oil.

jbusmc1986 I forgot to mention since you will be installing a cat back, do yourself a favor and get a Ti. It's the only exhaust that sounds good and isn't too loud.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by double-oh-coupe


Just about to start mine too ... curious about those LS7 lifters with the recent thread or two about lifter choices with aftermarket cams.

Steering rack is the biggest headache???

Keep in mind, there are two new GM LS7 lifters out. The new stock replacements, are for all LS motors, and the ones from the Cadillac CTSV-R racing program. The difference is about double the price, and capability of much higher revs.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbosixx
CT Corvette, is it possible to remove all the timing chain cover bolts, and put more sealeant in the corners where the timing chain cover meets the block and the oil pan?
you talkin' to me? , not sure, don't think that would be the fix, most leaks are from the crank seal, if not caused by a misaligned front cover, then the old style grey seals will 'cut' into the pulley
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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I see, looks like there is no way getting around removing the rack and the whole cover. BTW, what the best puller to remove a Powerbond pulley? Thanks!
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbosixx
I see, looks like there is no way getting around removing the rack and the whole cover. BTW, what the best puller to remove a Powerbond pulley? Thanks!
use one that is setup to pull from the 3 threaded holes, I've yet to remove one
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