M6 Launch Techniques
I'm looking for some input on launch techniques in my 97 M6. I'm bone stock currently, but do have some mods planned. I'm new to this game.. so any help is appreciated.
I'd recommend feathering/slipping the clutch during the launch. You can most easily keep the car from bogging or spinning with that method.
Here's my method the last time I ran, back when I still had EMTs:
-set rears to 28 psi
-turn off TC/AH
-drive around water box
-do very short burnout to clean tires
-get staged
-bring engine up above 2500 rpm (3800 when the track was super sticky)
-gradually slip out the clutch until fully engaged while depressing the throttle pedal at the same time, nice and smooth
Hope this helps...thanks
I'm thinking I need a new clutch then.. I tried this exact idea.. starting right at 2500 rpm, and the clutch never fully engaged and spun until I backed out the throttle a bit (such a nice smell that is). Stock clutch currently.. 47,000 miles.
clutch with some real time wear on it already, try this:
Drop the clutch at around 1200 - 1500 rpm and hit the go pedal right at
the time the clutch engages...This will produce no clutch slip, will get you
minimal tire spin and will still let the torque jump you away from the line in
with a smile on your face.
You can go up to around 1800 rpm on the launch using this method and still
not slip the clutch much if at all, but you will spin the EMTs pretty bad (unless this is what you want) and will not leave the line very fast because of that.
Give it a try and let us know what you think... :yesnod:
Good luck :cheers:
:flag
To better your 60 foot times, you need an adjustible shock so that you can set the rears softer so that weght shift can occur over rear tires during launch. Also removing one side of the swaybar on front will make it non working and help shift weight to the back.
A rear tire with a taller sidewall (flex) will also help getting more traction.
John
clutch with some real time wear on it already, try this:
Drop the clutch at around 1200 - 1500 rpm and hit the go pedal right at
the time the clutch engages...This will produce no clutch slip, will get you
minimal tire spin and will still let the torque jump you away from the line in
with a smile on your face.
You can go up to around 1800 rpm on the launch using this method and still
not slip the clutch much if at all, but you will spin the EMTs pretty bad (unless this is what you want) and will not leave the line very fast because of that.
Give it a try and let us know what you think... :yesnod:
Good luck :cheers:
:flag
Slip in a pin, this prevents handle from latching.
Now at the line you can simply hold up on the handle, set your RPMs, will not roll, drivetrain torques up. When you launch, just relase brake handle and car launches smoother and quicker.
John
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When you launch, the driveshaft wants to ride on top of the gear causing the front to want to lift.
Watch a good performing car, the front end goes up and the back hunches downward. Some have to use a wheelie bars on back to prevent too much front lift.
The sway bar ends, one end pushes down from downforce which forces other end to counter act to keep car level (and prevents less lift) until the force is greater then the diameter of the bar, then body roll occurs.
For drag racing, by just unbolting one end kills its function and allows end of car to lift, forcing weigh to transfer to the other end of car.
You might find on a C5 that more good is gained by doing this to rear sway bar then the front one or having neither functioning.
Seems the more the rear hunches down the better (more weight onto tire patch) the traction is and one of the reasons I have bump stops on shocks to prevent going too low.
John
Slip in a pin, this prevents handle from latching.
Now at the line you can simply hold up on the handle, set your RPMs, will not roll, drivetrain torques up. When you launch, just relase brake handle and car launches smoother and quicker.
Great idea..I might give that one a try as well...thanks for the suggestion :yesnod:
Tom :flag
Great idea..I might give that one a try as well...thanks for the suggestion :yesnod:
Tom :flag
the drivetrain will be all torqued up so when you drop the handle the whole car is cranked to scoot. Like a auto trannie and brake torqung off the line.
As you drop the g-pedal, just release the handle.
This also helps when the lane your on is not level and this prevents you from
rolling forward and overstaging thus can set your launch RPMs and not roll forward.
I'm looking for some input on launch techniques in my 97 M6. I'm bone stock currently, but do have some mods planned. I'm new to this game.. so any help is appreciated.
:flag
If you want spin, you gotta get into it hard after letting the clutch go, at least up to 4000 or above rpm...
Now the other thing that would help some is the PowerLoader II...the increased torque down low will help your spin factor quite a bit. :yesnod: :yesnod:
Let us know.... :seeya
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Thought I was gassing it, but it's possible I'm not fully into it.
It does dig in and move out (which is a good thing), but a little drama now and then would be fun.
One of the biggest things the PowerLoader does is eliminate the torque management for the lower rpms .... You get more grunt from 500 up to 3000 rpm and that definitely helps if you want to light 'em up some :D
I know all the A4 guys think the MN6 owner is wasting his time with the PowerLoader but that is not true...The MN6 gets a wake up call when loaded as well :cheers:
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To verify that uses a PCM scanner and attempt to monitor T.M on a MN6.
John










