C5 Climate Control dim/dark display fix
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Cary NC
Had a free afternoon today and fixed my unit in about an hour. Had my son do the soldering as my eyes and hands are not conducive to such activity. Looks like a new display.
Thanks to everyone who contributed their input.
Thanks to everyone who contributed their input.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 31
From: Fresno California
Thanks guys!!!
I bought 2002 (coupe, magnetic metallic red II) with 64k on the clock last weekend. Dealer was asking $19,900 for it, but he took my offer of $14,500. A big part of the negotiation was that I said this display was out and that it also needed rear hubs/bearings. This amazingly simple and very well documented fix saved me a healthy chunk of cash!
Now I just need to find the DIY rear hub thread!
I bought 2002 (coupe, magnetic metallic red II) with 64k on the clock last weekend. Dealer was asking $19,900 for it, but he took my offer of $14,500. A big part of the negotiation was that I said this display was out and that it also needed rear hubs/bearings. This amazingly simple and very well documented fix saved me a healthy chunk of cash!
Now I just need to find the DIY rear hub thread!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
First and foremost, this is not my fix! I spent a while searching multiple forums on info on how to do this, and found it all in several places. All I'm doing is collecting the info I found to put it in one step by step place with minor footnotes of my own. I will list names and URL's to each area I found the info from, and if anyone would like their info removed I will gladly do so!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.
Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!
I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Just trying to save the next poor guy some time for looking all over and following all the various links from everywhere
Hope this helps!
For the first steps, find pictures and more detailed instructions where I did, at http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Their list of tools is for a bigger job, you wont need all of the ones listed, you'll need others for actually fixing the control unit, and you only need to go to step 3g, no further for this section!
***If you have a convertible with the body colored "waterfall" you will have to remove it first. If not, skip this step. 4 screws total, size 15 torx screws, two on the top, one on each side towards the bottom. Just gently pull up to remove it.
Remove the console - Gently remove the Active Handling trim plate and wiring connections beneath it and to the console. Remove the 4 10mm nuts. Pick up only the back of the console to get it over the rear bolts, then slide it towards the back to get it out from the front bolts. The front is slotted to slide all the way out.
Remove the instrument trim panel - Gently pry out the trim panel to the left of the ignition switch, and remove the ashtray. Remove the 3 #15 torx screws. GENTLY pull the panel only a little ways! Back towards the top, and up at the bottom/back where 2 of the 10mm nuts were removed from the front of the console area (behind the shifter). Remove the cigarette lighter power. ***If it's a 6spd, remove the boot carefully, I pulled mine up, but this site says you can push it down also*** Once you've verified everything is free, carefully pull it out and set it safely aside.
Again, I highly recommend going to the following site http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html for pictures and a more detailed step by step instructions for the above steps.
The following steps are not found at the above URL.
Now you have a clear shot to your Climate Control unit! There are only 2 screws holding it in place. I'm sorry I didn’t get the size of them, but they're easily accessible to test a few sockets to find the perfect match
Remove the screws, pull the unit out a little way, and remove the connector in the back. Pay attention to the connector, there's an area you have to press to release the clip to be able to pull it out.Now that you have the unit out, take it to a safe place, preferably the clean worktable you will be finishing the work on it
Carefully remove the 4 screws on the corners holding it together. They are small, and have very coarse threads, so use a hand screwdriver style tool preferably, NOT a drill, if you only have a ratchet set, just be very careful not to over tighten it when you're done!
The following was ninja'ed from RPOZ4Z at Corvette Forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=2 on page 2 post # 24. Thank you VERY much RPOZ4Z for putting words to sight so I knew what the hell to solder!!!
There is a 2nd variation of this board, which is the one I found in my 01 convertible. Thank you EnglandGreen for posting the other kind of board as seen below! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1316227&page=3 Same thread, page 3 post #50
On both boards, it's very easy to unplug the power board from the front of the unit to work on it. And on either board, what you're looking for is those little black guys with "241" printed on them. I used a Cold Heat soldering gun I got from Radio shack an hour or two earlier in my then together car
The tip it came with was not ideal, but it finally got the job done!I tried to see which seemed loose and only solder those few. Don’t bother trying, either you wont be able to tell, or you'll break them off looking for the loose ones. I fixed the 2 obvious ones, and went out to the car to try it, but only got a very dim light. When I went back and soldered more they were practically ALL broken on one side
Be careful to try and hold them in place so they don’t move if you happen to solder the good end first. I had one come completely off the board, and it was very hard to get it back on. I eventually wound up putting solder on the contacts on the board first, then putting the chip back on and soldering, it was a pain. I just rested the back of a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver on them to keep them in place, it doesn’t take much.
When you finally have them all done on both sides, carefully put the unit back together. Be sure to line up the pins on the back cover, and be careful with the small coarse threaded screws. I put them in the hole, turned them backwards until I felt where the thread was and then gently screwed them in until tight. You do not want to torque them at all, it will be obvious when they're tight and you're against the circuit board. Same with the screws that hold the casing together.
Now before you put everything back together in your car, make sure you turn the ignition on to make sure it lights up! You don’t need to start the car, just put it in the on position. Assuming everything works, CONGRATULATIONS! Follow the steps in reverse order to put everything back together, reconnect all the electrical items, and make sure not to strip or over tighten anything. One thing I did notice is the screw behind the ashtray seems loose when you're putting it back together at first. It's just the nature of the clip. Once the dash is in position and you snug it up it will get tight.
Now that I know what I'm doing, it really is a quick job! If you read up and study the pictures first, it should go pretty smoothly long as you or someone you know can solder ok
Cordless Coldheat Soldering gun - $19.99
4 pack AA batteries - $3.99
.022 dia High Tech Rosin Core Solder - $3.99
Saving $500 and a day spent at the dealership with no car - priceless!
-ALSO!!! If you DONT want to risk soldering it yourself, try a local reputable electronics expert. Long as you can show him what's broke he can probably fix it. Or if you have time to wait for mail have an expert do it for you!!! I don’t know this person at all, I just found the following in my search!
From member rws.1 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #2
and from member widewheel http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=David+Ruberg post #3
I personally needed the soldering equipment to fix a headset as well, and plan to use it in the future so for me it was worth it. But if you're concerned, don’t have the equipment, $45-$50 to have someone do it and warranty it vs. $28 in equipment sounds like a pretty darn good deal!!! Looks like he gets rave reviews to boot!
MUCH thanks to everyone that did the legwork everywhere to get all this great info out there, I hope this makes it easier to find and read through all the various steps!
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Bought "Bare Metal" liquid solder in tube from Radio Shack. They swear this will fill in broken solder joints. I will see as soon as I get time. Also, how does, or does, the leather boot and the gear indicator panel (AT) come out ???? Or can I remove the display by just turning the dash trim panel sideways ??
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: South River NJ
Just found this thread and started reading. Those surface mount resistors marked 241 are actually 240 ohm resistors. I am kind of surprised to see a mix of thru pin and surface mount on the same board, but that's GM......
If you heat the end that is actually still soldered nicely in-place and the other end is not, then the resistor will tend to start moving. It's ok, won't hurt anything. What WILL hurt is if you apply too much heat, of get a little forceful with them. The metal ends can easily break off the ceramic body and now you have nothing. Don't worry, I have thousands of them for those that need them.
I have not seen one in person so I do not know if they are 2512 package size of not. Someone can easily measure one to see what size they are. The size primarily determines the wattage it can handle. A 241 can come in many different size packages, same value, just different wattage ratings.
When I rework this kind of stuff I actually completely remove the part by getting both ends hot enough and then lifting with tweezers. I then use solderwick to clean all old solder off. Apply fresh solder to one end, set the resistor down on the board while the solder is still hot (from your soldering iron) and get it in place. Do this to all of them. Once they are all soldered on one end, go back and solder the other end. By doing it this way you won't have two ends hot at the same time with the part floating around the board on you. You will also have a very good visual indicator of which resistors still need on end soldered, no guess-work there. Been doing this stuff all my life, can do it in my sleep!
Good luck everyone and let me know if you need any help. When I do my stereo I will take the climate control apart at the same time and re-work it so I have no problems later on.
Has anyone replaced the LED's with different colors? That may be interesting too.
If you heat the end that is actually still soldered nicely in-place and the other end is not, then the resistor will tend to start moving. It's ok, won't hurt anything. What WILL hurt is if you apply too much heat, of get a little forceful with them. The metal ends can easily break off the ceramic body and now you have nothing. Don't worry, I have thousands of them for those that need them.
I have not seen one in person so I do not know if they are 2512 package size of not. Someone can easily measure one to see what size they are. The size primarily determines the wattage it can handle. A 241 can come in many different size packages, same value, just different wattage ratings.
When I rework this kind of stuff I actually completely remove the part by getting both ends hot enough and then lifting with tweezers. I then use solderwick to clean all old solder off. Apply fresh solder to one end, set the resistor down on the board while the solder is still hot (from your soldering iron) and get it in place. Do this to all of them. Once they are all soldered on one end, go back and solder the other end. By doing it this way you won't have two ends hot at the same time with the part floating around the board on you. You will also have a very good visual indicator of which resistors still need on end soldered, no guess-work there. Been doing this stuff all my life, can do it in my sleep!
Good luck everyone and let me know if you need any help. When I do my stereo I will take the climate control apart at the same time and re-work it so I have no problems later on.
Has anyone replaced the LED's with different colors? That may be interesting too.
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Too dangerous for me. Instead, for $ 55. these guys will go through the unit & fix all current & future known problems. They have been in business for 20+ years and also do ABS, ECU, etc. etc. Looks like the only way to go really.
http://www.autoecu.com/
http://www.autoecu.com/
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 117
Too dangerous for me. Instead, for $ 55. these guys will go through the unit & fix all current & future known problems. They have been in business for 20+ years and also do ABS, ECU, etc. etc. Looks like the only way to go really.
http://www.autoecu.com/
http://www.autoecu.com/
- Autoecu job will be less than 10 minutes, including unpacking packing back ready for shipping.
And the $55 are the right price for that.
- Extracting the unit, packing the unit, shipping the unit, receiving the unit, remounting the unit will take more time obviously, and even more if this thread was not existing...
Depending how much an hour of your time worth!!!
I did the complete job in less than one hour, and working on the unit was the easiest part.
Thank you to Corvette Forum members for providing so clear instructions on "how to" work on our cars.
Christian
Last edited by miami993c297; Mar 6, 2014 at 05:52 AM. Reason: misspelling
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
You are correct but:
- Autoecu job will be les than 10 minutes, including unpacking packing back ready for shipping.
And the $55 are the right price for that.
- Extracting the unit, packing the unit, shipping the unit, receiving the unit, remounting the unit will take more time obviously, and even more if this thread was not existing...
Depending how much an hour of your time worth!!!
I did the complete job in less than one hour, and working on the unit was the easiest part.
Thank you to Corvette Forum members for providing so clear instructions on "how to" work on our cars.
Christian
- Autoecu job will be les than 10 minutes, including unpacking packing back ready for shipping.
And the $55 are the right price for that.
- Extracting the unit, packing the unit, shipping the unit, receiving the unit, remounting the unit will take more time obviously, and even more if this thread was not existing...
Depending how much an hour of your time worth!!!
I did the complete job in less than one hour, and working on the unit was the easiest part.
Thank you to Corvette Forum members for providing so clear instructions on "how to" work on our cars.
Christian
if you have basic soldering skills and have ever soldered a board or made your own speakers you can do this. the only concern for a novice is to use a 10-15w iron and be careful with the heat. when the solder flows, pull the iron, don't leave it on for 15 more seconds once you have a good flow together. a dab of flux on the end of your solder makes the flow super easy
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Wesley Chapel Florida
I did this fix and it worked great! I put everything back together and now the blower is not working properly. It is blowing air, but not through the proper vents. It does blow air to the windshield vent and the rest is going through the instrument panel and not the vents. Did I do something wrong in reconnecting the climate control to the instrument panel? Help!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 219
From: West Branch, MI
I did this fix and it worked great! I put everything back together and now the blower is not working properly. It is blowing air, but not through the proper vents. It does blow air to the windshield vent and the rest is going through the instrument panel and not the vents. Did I do something wrong in reconnecting the climate control to the instrument panel? Help!
