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I'm replacing a rear wheel bearing and cannot get the big (34mm) nut busted loose. I'm using a 24" breaker (1/2" drive) with about a four-foot cheater and am getting to where it looks like the bar is going to snap(busting knuckles and whatever else, of course). Any ideas? By any chanceis that a backwards thread? Or, absent that, any ideas about getting it loose? I have saturated the thing with penetrating oil, WD40, you name it. Thanks to all the DIY bloggers out there, in advance.
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e brake off cotter pin out? I guess. PB Rust Buster is way better than WD-40. How rusted are the threads looking? Have access to a torch to heat it? Hot nut expands and rust is crushed so it comes off easy when it cools or even hot.
Last edited by John Shiels; Jan 1, 2007 at 07:33 PM.
Take a dull chisel and a hammer and hit the nut in the middle of the flat surface on all six faces. Smack it really hard and it should break loose. Hold a tension on the bar and have someone hit the bar with a good sized hammer to get it started off. Had to do this on mine after I broke a 2 foot bar with a 3 foot cheater.
I'm replacing a rear wheel bearing and cannot get the big (34mm) nut busted loose. I'm using a 24" breaker (1/2" drive) with about a four-foot cheater and am getting to where it looks like the bar is going to snap(busting knuckles and whatever else, of course). Any ideas? By any chanceis that a backwards thread? Or, absent that, any ideas about getting it loose? I have saturated the thing with penetrating oil, WD40, you name it. Thanks to all the DIY bloggers out there, in advance.
USE PB BLASTER.... I did mine last month... and the PB worked when the WD did nothing...
I bought a 24" 3/4" Drive from Harbor Freight.. I used a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter for the 34mm socket..
Soaked it with PB for 10 minutes and then stood on the bar... I weigh 175lbs... It was still not moving.. I grabbed under the rear fender and pulled.. I guess I added another 50 or 60lbs of pull.. and it popped!
Soaked it with PB for 10 minutes and then stood on the bar... I weigh 175lbs... It was still not moving.. I grabbed under the rear fender and pulled.. I guess I added another 50 or 60lbs of pull.. and it popped!
I'm going for the 3/4 inch breaker next. If I can find one that is about 6 feet long I'll be in business. Was is Archimedes who said "Give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth"? or someone else from that gang?
Seriously, will heating the nut with my Bernzomatic really work? I'd hate to see all the PB Blaster I've been spraying go up in flames!
Who created all these little characters? .....anyway?
I'm going for the 3/4 inch breaker next. If I can find one that is about 6 feet long I'll be in business. Was is Archimedes who said "Give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth"? or someone else from that gang?
Seriously, will heating the nut with my Bernzomatic really work? I'd hate to see all the PB Blaster I've been spraying go up in flames!
Who created all these little characters? .....anyway?
If heating the nut causes it to expand at a faster rate than the shaft, then it could do some good, but I'd rather not heat the end of my shafts if I can help it.
FWIW, I broke a 1/2 breaker while using an 8ft Al pipe to increase my torque. That's when I went out and bought the 3/4" set (and returned/got a new craftsman breaker). I then broke the nut loose on the first try with the 3/4", with NO breaker bar, and it's probably only 20" long; apparently, its stiffness made a very big difference. I do also have to say that I'm a little stronger than the average bear, tho.
The only bad thing is axle nuts are the only thing that expensive set comes out for.