Oil pressure sender relocate
06-02-2007, 09:31 AM
#181
Drifting
Might have been too busy getting ready for that recent cruise in
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=958008
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ght=change+oil
06-02-2007, 09:33 AM
#182
Drifting
06-10-2007, 09:38 AM
#183
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
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CAUTION: THREAD HIJACK!! ok, not really. I decided to do the cut-a-way method and took some pics. Not too difficult to say the least.
Tools needed: 14mm socket, 1-1/16 deep socket, Needlenose pliers, cutting disk and a sawblade (use by hand. plastic cuts real easy)
REMOVE WIPERS (14mm socket, pull washer hose off too)
REMOVE TRAY (5 plastic rivets. Pull center up, then pull rivet out) Lay upside down ontop of motor.
This is the underneath tray
I cut on an angle so that I can put the plastic piece back on.. sort of like a carving a pumpkin top.
There's the little devil right there. (sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea)
Using the 1-1/16 deep socket and a long extension, r/r the sensor. This is the new one installed. I used about 2 turns of tape also and didn't over tighten. Just snug it up and when complete, start the car and make sure it doesn't leak.
I used some duct tape and replaced the plastic piece. Looks ugly but you can't see it when the top plastic is put back.
Tools needed: 14mm socket, 1-1/16 deep socket, Needlenose pliers, cutting disk and a sawblade (use by hand. plastic cuts real easy)
REMOVE WIPERS (14mm socket, pull washer hose off too)
REMOVE TRAY (5 plastic rivets. Pull center up, then pull rivet out) Lay upside down ontop of motor.
This is the underneath tray
I cut on an angle so that I can put the plastic piece back on.. sort of like a carving a pumpkin top.
There's the little devil right there. (sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea)
Using the 1-1/16 deep socket and a long extension, r/r the sensor. This is the new one installed. I used about 2 turns of tape also and didn't over tighten. Just snug it up and when complete, start the car and make sure it doesn't leak.
I used some duct tape and replaced the plastic piece. Looks ugly but you can't see it when the top plastic is put back.
Just replaced my faulty pressure sensor using this method.... used a Standard PS-308 (I guess they all are aluminum now
)..gotta tell you..relatively easy...Wiper arms were hardest to get off but some PB Blaster convinced them to eventually come off..
I had to modify my 1 1/6 socket by thinning out the walls somewhat to get it to fit around the sensor (due to obstruction by a bolt)
I used duct tape behind the panel to hold it in place when I put it back and then sealed it with black RTV...there is black stuff smeared in this area by the factory at assembly...my smearing will fit right in...
As the panel is already cut out, I can remove it quite easily if I need to, if this sensor fails I will have all of the stuff needed to relocate it on hand (gonna get everything this week), and I will just relocate if I need to go in there again.
This has to be better than removing the whole intake IMO.
06-12-2007, 05:01 PM
#184
Intermediate
Member Since: Feb 2007
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Geez. Wish I had known about this thread sooner. Two weeks ago I had my Vette shop replace the sender the old fashioned way...remove the intake manifold. I had an LS6 manifold (from SLP) and LS6 valley cover (from Gene Culley) installed in the process. Made the whole project cost $1000 parts and labor for a lousy $39 problem.
The side benefit, of course, is the few ponies from the LS6 manifold.
Im bracing for the next failure, and when it does, I'm doing the access hole and relocation myself. The time to order the parts is now.
The side benefit, of course, is the few ponies from the LS6 manifold.
Im bracing for the next failure, and when it does, I'm doing the access hole and relocation myself. The time to order the parts is now.
06-12-2007, 05:08 PM
#185
Intermediate
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I had mine replaced due to excessive oil loss onto the block. Saw smoke from near the header on the passenger side near the firewall. I was loosing a quart every 4 tank fulls. Oil vapor was entering the cabin via the fresh air duct and causing an odor and the carpets to turn black.
06-14-2007, 06:54 PM
#186
I had been reading this thread about a month ago hoping that I would never have to worry about this. Lo and behold, had the Vette out last weekend and oil pressure pegs out at 80 on the gauge and 130 on the DIC. The car is an '02 with 75,000 miles on it and in August it will be 6 years old. I now have the information I need to handle this fix.
06-14-2007, 08:26 PM
#187
Melting Slicks
I had been reading this thread about a month ago hoping that I would never have to worry about this. Lo and behold, had the Vette out last weekend and oil pressure pegs out at 80 on the gauge and 130 on the DIC. The car is an '02 with 75,000 miles on it and in August it will be 6 years old. I now have the information I need to handle this fix.
06-16-2007, 02:59 AM
#188
4th Gear
Member Since: Jan 2004
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Mine died last week 73K miles on a 1998. It is not clear that there is a "fix" unless the real problem is over torque on the replacement parts.
I am not sure it is worth fixing until there is a real solution.
I am not sure it is worth fixing until there is a real solution.
06-16-2007, 01:02 PM
#191
Drifting
Advice for fellow newbies
I just got done doing this on my 98. I was worried about needing to remove the intake...wasn't looking forward to that, and didn't relish the thought of cutting into the cowl either. 
Became a moot point when I found that a previous owner had already made the cut!
So, now I have a new oil pressure switch and my gauge is working again.
A couple words of advice for other newbies like myself...
One of the earlier posts mentioned turning down a socket because the walls were too big and there were clearance issues. Don't destroy your socket! Auto Zone sells an Oil Pressure switch socket made by Great Neck for about $6. It's thin walled so there's no clearance issue. Luckily, I found it by accident before I had a chance to destroy the brand new socket I'd just bought from Sears to do this job.
Detaching the electrical connector from the switch--I just used some coat hanger wire, bent a loop in it and used it to get underneath the tab of the connector. Pulled it up and it popped off. Easy.
Removing the old unit....once it's unscrewed, don't let it fall out of the socket! Mine dropped out behind the engine and I wasted about an hour fishing it out with the coat hanger and a pair of long tweezers. PITA! Maybe put a piece of foam up in the socket first to hold it in place? Similar to what some spark plug sockets have?
Same caution for installing the new unit. I put the switch in the socket, then taped it in place, started threading it and once it was in, I removed the tape from the socket and then finished tightening the switch.
Pretty easy fix, overall, and next time I have to do it, it'll be a snap.
Became a moot point when I found that a previous owner had already made the cut!
So, now I have a new oil pressure switch and my gauge is working again.
A couple words of advice for other newbies like myself...
One of the earlier posts mentioned turning down a socket because the walls were too big and there were clearance issues. Don't destroy your socket! Auto Zone sells an Oil Pressure switch socket made by Great Neck for about $6. It's thin walled so there's no clearance issue. Luckily, I found it by accident before I had a chance to destroy the brand new socket I'd just bought from Sears to do this job.
Detaching the electrical connector from the switch--I just used some coat hanger wire, bent a loop in it and used it to get underneath the tab of the connector. Pulled it up and it popped off. Easy.
Removing the old unit....once it's unscrewed, don't let it fall out of the socket! Mine dropped out behind the engine and I wasted about an hour fishing it out with the coat hanger and a pair of long tweezers. PITA! Maybe put a piece of foam up in the socket first to hold it in place? Similar to what some spark plug sockets have?
Same caution for installing the new unit. I put the switch in the socket, then taped it in place, started threading it and once it was in, I removed the tape from the socket and then finished tightening the switch.
Pretty easy fix, overall, and next time I have to do it, it'll be a snap.
06-16-2007, 01:55 PM
#192
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Westchester County New York
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One of the earlier posts mentioned turning down a socket because the walls were too big and there were clearance issues. Don't destroy your socket! Auto Zone sells an Oil Pressure switch socket made by Great Neck for about $6. It's thin walled so there's no clearance issue. Luckily, I found it by accident before I had a chance to destroy the brand new socket I'd just bought from Sears to do this job.
Detaching the electrical connector from the switch--I just used some coat hanger wire, bent a loop in it and used it to get underneath the tab of the connector. Pulled it up and it popped off. Easy.
Pretty easy fix, overall, and next time I have to do it, it'll be a snap.
As for the connector on the switch...i used a hook normally used for taking off weatherstrip..it was easy...coat hanger works too...
As you stated as well, next time (if there is one) will be a piece of cake..
06-19-2007, 04:44 PM
#193
3rd Gear
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In my internet searches for new sensor ideas I have come across your sticky issue. Based upon the information in this thread I have assembled the pictured solution using parts from my racing electronics business. To make it a plug and play installation for you guys, I just need to find a source for the crush washer and custom make the sensor's electronics to match the OEM piece. The result would be a near bulletproof application.
Per assembly prices would be in the $250 range.
It would be using all the best stuff:
Stainless steel racing pressure sensor with the same wiring and output as the OEM piece,
Stainless-overbraided, teflon hose,
AN fittings,
16 mm adapter . . .
This would need to be a group buy or a distributer or ? to justify the Corvette specification assembly at the quoted price.
Would this help you guys out of your sticky issue?
Eric Schieb
ElectronSpeed.com
06-19-2007, 10:59 PM
#194
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2005
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Here's is my relocation unit installed. It works perfect.
The analog gauge and the dash electric gauge show the same oil pressure with the new sender installed.
The whole setup with the analog gauge, new sender and mounting bracket is 289.00.
That comes with all the fittings needed including the adapter with crush sleeve. The much cooler location should make the electronics last. It also comes without the analog gauge for those who want it hidden under the plastic covers. I made 5 of them for now.
Video installed.
http://www.dpecorvettes.com/download...e%20sender.wmv
.
.
.
.
The analog gauge and the dash electric gauge show the same oil pressure with the new sender installed.
The whole setup with the analog gauge, new sender and mounting bracket is 289.00.
That comes with all the fittings needed including the adapter with crush sleeve. The much cooler location should make the electronics last. It also comes without the analog gauge for those who want it hidden under the plastic covers. I made 5 of them for now.
Video installed.
http://www.dpecorvettes.com/download...e%20sender.wmv
.
.
.
.
06-20-2007, 03:57 PM
#195
Melting Slicks
In my internet searches for new sensor ideas I have come across your sticky issue. Based upon the information in this thread I have assembled the pictured solution using parts from my racing electronics business. To make it a plug and play installation for you guys, I just need to find a source for the crush washer and custom make the sensor's electronics to match the OEM piece. The result would be a near bulletproof application.
Per assembly prices would be in the $250 range.
It would be using all the best stuff:
Stainless steel racing pressure sensor with the same wiring and output as the OEM piece,
Stainless-overbraided, teflon hose,
AN fittings,
16 mm adapter . . .
This would need to be a group buy or a distributer or ? to justify the Corvette specification assembly at the quoted price.
Would this help you guys out of your sticky issue?
Eric Schieb
ElectronSpeed.com
If those are that good why the need to re-locate them? If the factory unit craps out and a racing unit is that much better I'd slap one in and be on down the road.
Last edited by 87bob; 06-20-2007 at 04:00 PM.
06-20-2007, 05:03 PM
#196
Burning Brakes
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Tells us about this: "Stainless steel racing pressure sensor with the same wiring and output as the OEM piece"
If those are that good why the need to re-locate them? If the factory unit craps out and a racing unit is that much better I'd slap one in and be on down the road.
If those are that good why the need to re-locate them? If the factory unit craps out and a racing unit is that much better I'd slap one in and be on down the road.
If they last ,maybe you can make them for GM
06-23-2007, 09:25 PM
#197
Racer
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I just did the "cut a hole in your Corvette method" and let me tell you, measure once cut 4 times The best way is to cut a bit more than you think you need and you should have it. Does anyone know if that hole has to be sealed? It is in such a location that I don't think much can get in there but... who knows.
One other problem I ran into was when I lifted the wiper cover? tray thing, the windsheild washer fluid lines where brittle and snapped and I had an fun time getting them together again. I ended up using shrink tubing used for electronics, heated it up then used super glue to keep it together and it works
Also used PB Blaster to get the wipers off! The center one was rusted good so I smacked it with a 2x4 and a hammer and it popped right off.
The best way is to cut a bit more than you think you need and you should have it. Does anyone know if that hole has to be sealed? It is in such a location that I don't think much can get in there but... who knows. One other problem I ran into was when I lifted the wiper cover? tray thing, the windsheild washer fluid lines where brittle and snapped and I had an fun time getting them together again. I ended up using shrink tubing used for electronics, heated it up then used super glue to keep it together and it works
Also used PB Blaster to get the wipers off! The center one was rusted good so I smacked it with a 2x4 and a hammer and it popped right off.
06-23-2007, 10:16 PM
#198
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Westchester County New York
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I just did the "cut a hole in your Corvette method" and let me tell you, measure once cut 4 times The best way is to cut a bit more than you think you need and you should have it. Does anyone know if that hole has to be sealed? It is in such a location that I don't think much can get in there but... who knows.
One other problem I ran into was when I lifted the wiper cover? tray thing, the windsheild washer fluid lines where brittle and snapped and I had an fun time getting them together again. I ended up using shrink tubing used for electronics, heated it up then used super glue to keep it together and it works
Also used PB Blaster to get the wipers off! The center one was rusted good so I smacked it with a 2x4 and a hammer and it popped right off.
The best way is to cut a bit more than you think you need and you should have it. Does anyone know if that hole has to be sealed? It is in such a location that I don't think much can get in there but... who knows. One other problem I ran into was when I lifted the wiper cover? tray thing, the windsheild washer fluid lines where brittle and snapped and I had an fun time getting them together again. I ended up using shrink tubing used for electronics, heated it up then used super glue to keep it together and it works
Also used PB Blaster to get the wipers off! The center one was rusted good so I smacked it with a 2x4 and a hammer and it popped right off.
I used PB Blaster as well.....but I sealed mine up with black RTV...dont want any water toget in...
06-23-2007, 10:28 PM
#199
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
YES,,you should seal it up!! That cowl area is the intake duct for your HVAC system. If you leave it open (exposed to the engine compartment), dirty, smelly, hot, stale air form the engine compartment will be sucked into your HVAC system if you have the fresh air mode selected. Thats NOT good!
BC
BC
06-24-2007, 08:47 PM
#200
3rd Gear
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"interested in a Racing sensor if it will last in the stock location"
We might be able to make this happen. There are two hurdles from my point of view.
1) This adapter (16mm male to AN3 3/8'-24 female) would not be an off the shelf part for me. I will do a bit of digging to see how we could make this work cleanly.
2) To mount directly to the engine I would prefer a taller sensor with a higher vibration specification. How tall can I go and still keep it under the cover?
thanks,
Eric Schieb
ElectronSpeed.com
We might be able to make this happen. There are two hurdles from my point of view.
1) This adapter (16mm male to AN3 3/8'-24 female) would not be an off the shelf part for me. I will do a bit of digging to see how we could make this work cleanly.
2) To mount directly to the engine I would prefer a taller sensor with a higher vibration specification. How tall can I go and still keep it under the cover?
thanks,
Eric Schieb
ElectronSpeed.com