Help - Starter Wiring Problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: The Woodlands Texas
Help - Starter Wiring Problem
Okay,
I just finished installed my MTI Stage II heads / cam package and finally reinstalled the SLP long tube headers, Corsa exhaust system, etc. When you install SLP headers you have to modify the main wiring harness on teh passenger side due to clearance issues. I made the modifications 3 years ago and have never had a problem.
Well, while doing the heads / cam swap I noticed my wiring harness to the starter was taking a lot of heat and beginning to melt the wiring insulation and heat shielding (I added) so I rerouted the 3 wires going to the starter by adding 30" of wire to the small purple, small grey and larger rust colored wires that tie onto the starter solenoid. I also rerouted the main battery lead by adding 30" of wire to it. I used similar or larger gauge wire for each lead and used crimp-style connectors.
My problem - when I hooked up the battery in preparation for starting the new engine the starter just spins away under it's own.
Any of you electrical guru's have some suggestions on what I did wrong? Really appreciate your time and help - I am not an electrical guru by the way.
Thanks,
Larry
I just finished installed my MTI Stage II heads / cam package and finally reinstalled the SLP long tube headers, Corsa exhaust system, etc. When you install SLP headers you have to modify the main wiring harness on teh passenger side due to clearance issues. I made the modifications 3 years ago and have never had a problem.
Well, while doing the heads / cam swap I noticed my wiring harness to the starter was taking a lot of heat and beginning to melt the wiring insulation and heat shielding (I added) so I rerouted the 3 wires going to the starter by adding 30" of wire to the small purple, small grey and larger rust colored wires that tie onto the starter solenoid. I also rerouted the main battery lead by adding 30" of wire to it. I used similar or larger gauge wire for each lead and used crimp-style connectors.
My problem - when I hooked up the battery in preparation for starting the new engine the starter just spins away under it's own.
Any of you electrical guru's have some suggestions on what I did wrong? Really appreciate your time and help - I am not an electrical guru by the way.
Thanks,
Larry
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Only the purple wire connects to the (small) solenoid terminal.
The gray and rust colored wires connect directly to the starter, same (large) post as the thick wire from the battery.
Those 2 (gray and rust) wires are control wires for the alternator circuit, and are connected to +12v all the time via the starter post.
By connecting them to the solenoid, you are probably backfeeding voltage to the solenoid, causing it to energize the starter.
Hopefully you didn't fry the alternator in this process.
The gray and rust colored wires connect directly to the starter, same (large) post as the thick wire from the battery.
Those 2 (gray and rust) wires are control wires for the alternator circuit, and are connected to +12v all the time via the starter post.
By connecting them to the solenoid, you are probably backfeeding voltage to the solenoid, causing it to energize the starter.
Hopefully you didn't fry the alternator in this process.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: The Woodlands Texas
Okay,
My HELMS manual says to bolt the gray and rust leads together to the second post on the solenoid, the purple wire goes to the tiny post on the solenoid and the battery power goes to the post on the solenoid that has the wire attached to the starter. That is how I wired up the starter.
If I understand your instructions correctly, I should move the gray and rust wires to the same post as the battery power lead?
My HELMS manual says to bolt the gray and rust leads together to the second post on the solenoid, the purple wire goes to the tiny post on the solenoid and the battery power goes to the post on the solenoid that has the wire attached to the starter. That is how I wired up the starter.
If I understand your instructions correctly, I should move the gray and rust wires to the same post as the battery power lead?
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Okay,
My HELMS manual says to bolt the gray and rust leads together to the second post on the solenoid, the purple wire goes to the tiny post on the solenoid and the battery power goes to the post on the solenoid that has the wire attached to the starter. That is how I wired up the starter.
If I understand your instructions correctly, I should move the gray and rust wires to the same post as the battery power lead?
My HELMS manual says to bolt the gray and rust leads together to the second post on the solenoid, the purple wire goes to the tiny post on the solenoid and the battery power goes to the post on the solenoid that has the wire attached to the starter. That is how I wired up the starter.
If I understand your instructions correctly, I should move the gray and rust wires to the same post as the battery power lead?
The purple wire connects to the small post.
The battery cable, gray, and rust colored wires connect to the large post that ISN'T directly connected to the starter.
The large post that is connected to the starter motor (via a braided strap) you connect nothing to.
What happens is this: When that purple wire energizes (key turned), the solenoid pulls in, and completes a circuit between the 2 large posts (connecting the battery to starter motor).
If you connected the battery to the post that's connected to the starter motor, well, that is why it will run immediately.
Hope that clarifies.
Last edited by Y2Kvert4me; Jan 4, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Downingtown PA
The solenoid has a total of 3 posts. 1 small, 2 large.
The purple wire connects to the small post.
The battery cable, gray, and rust colored wires connect to the large post that ISN'T directly connected to the starter.
The large post that is connected to the starter motor (via a braided strap) you connect nothing to.
What happens is this: When that purple wire energizes (key turned), the solenoid pulls in, and completes a circuit between the 2 large posts (connecting the battery to starter motor).
If you connected the battery to the post that's connected to the starter motor, well, that is why it will run immediately.
Hope that clarifies.
The purple wire connects to the small post.
The battery cable, gray, and rust colored wires connect to the large post that ISN'T directly connected to the starter.
The large post that is connected to the starter motor (via a braided strap) you connect nothing to.
What happens is this: When that purple wire energizes (key turned), the solenoid pulls in, and completes a circuit between the 2 large posts (connecting the battery to starter motor).
If you connected the battery to the post that's connected to the starter motor, well, that is why it will run immediately.
Hope that clarifies.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Looks like you connected the 12 VDC battery cable to the WRONG
terminal on the starter. It actually connects to the large stud on the solenoid!!
If you used "CRIMP" connections on the starter wires,, sooner or later they will corrode and fail. I recommend soldering the connections and using heat shrink for insulation.
BC
terminal on the starter. It actually connects to the large stud on the solenoid!!
If you used "CRIMP" connections on the starter wires,, sooner or later they will corrode and fail. I recommend soldering the connections and using heat shrink for insulation.
BC
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 2
From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Absolutely correct. Also be careful of what kind of electric wire you use near hot places. I recently had a length of the generic stuff from the auto store melt while the OEM wire on both sides of it was perfectly happy. Clearly the OEM wiring in hot locations can take a whole lot more heat than the generic stuff.
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