When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
'98 'VERT - MY REVERSE LOCKOUT SOLENOID WENT OUT ON ME ( i'm self diagnosing here, takes two hands all of a sudden to get it in reverse now-other than that no other related problem ). MY QUESTION IS THIS, CAN I GO ON FOREVER USING TWO HANDS TO SHIFT IN REVERSE OR WILL I EVENTUALLY GET STRANDED SOMEWHERE AND/OR BIGGER REPAIRS/PROBLEMS IF I DON'T FIX IT ? THANX IN ADVANCE GENTLEMEN.
It is my "understanding" that the lockout can be overriden by design. I have (a couple of times) hit reverse re-aiming for fifth. Really a weird happening but it did occur.
From what I have read here on CF, the lockout is more of a reminder than a prohibitor. Yours being difficult to engage in reverse implies a bit more than a lazy solenoid.
Don't take my opinion as absolute, but it is my crude opinion.
Since mine is on my lift, I checked to see if I could reach up and access it without removing anything and, sure enough, it was easy to put my hands on it so I'm sure I could change it by feel if need be without dropping anything.
I have a 03 Z06 20,000 miles.
Dealer changed the sensor and the tranny fluid
no more 5th/reverse grinding and much silkier shifting.
I would rec. changing the fluid if you do the sensor.
Now if I could figure out why the brakes squeal in the back?
the pads look hardly worn.
I researched the revese lockout sensor on this site
after I noticed the grinding-the dealer at first told me
the tranny would have to be removed and torn apart to change the sensor, I told him no I don't think so, he talked to his
"tranny man" and then he said oh it just needs to be lowered
to reach he sensor. I said ahh no I heard on the Corvette forum
that all you need is a special tool to reach the top of the tranny!
When I went to pick it up he didnt bring it up how they fixed it and he didnt charge me for it but he did charge me $450 to replace the front pads-no rotor turning and change the diff fluid. He said man its expensive to own a corvette-huh? pads and diff fluid $450?
The reason I even brought up the brakes was that the REAR pads were squealing, the work order says-replaced front pads-now rear pads squeal-
No wonder GM is hurting-from now on I will do it or find a local shop.
I researched the revese lockout sensor on this site
after I noticed the grinding-the dealer at first told me
the tranny would have to be removed and torn apart to change the sensor, I told him no I don't think so, he talked to his
"tranny man" and then he said oh it just needs to be lowered
to reach he sensor. I said ahh no I heard on the Corvette forum
that all you need is a special tool to reach the top of the tranny!
When I went to pick it up he didnt bring it up how they fixed it and he didnt charge me for it but he did charge me $450 to replace the front pads-no rotor turning and change the diff fluid. He said man its expensive to own a corvette-huh? pads and diff fluid $450?
The reason I even brought up the brakes was that the REAR pads were squealing, the work order says-replaced front pads-now rear pads squeal-
No wonder GM is hurting-from now on I will do it or find a local shop.
Not sure what mileage you are at but due to the compound of the pads, all C5 sqweek or sqweel.....oooor make "that" sound. Usually you can do a couple of hard-breaking runs to heat the pads and it will subside for a while.
.........on the other hand, if you were down to the "scrapers" then change the puppies out!
the car has 20,000 miles
the front pads were low
but the back are fat. I am not the original owner
so I am not sure when or if they were changed but man the squeal
is annoying. Any cures for the squealng besides new ceramic pads?
I tried the hitting the brakes at speed and that didnt work.
If the rotors do not need to be turned due to scoring or some other damage they should not be turned. You got charged the list price for the pads plus the flat rate manual (inflated) labor charge. The squealing doesn't mean anything so forget about it. Ceramics may not squeal or dust but they don't stop either.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Jan 11, 2007 at 02:08 AM.
I think you will drive like that until you finally shove your shifter/rod coupler out of alignment enough with all the high-force jamming you'll be doing that you'll start having problems shifting into gear. Plenty of folks here have had to readjust the shift linkage under normal shifting conditions. Imagine what cramming that thing into reverse the way you have to with a bad solenoid will do to the linkage after a while.