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Is it ok to drive with Seafoam in the crankcase? I've heard good things about it. Anyone ever use Seafoam?
I put a pint in the crankcase and operated the car for three weeks of sporadic driving, maybe three hours or so, and then drained and changed the oil. The oil I drained was MUCH darker than prior changes. I plan to do it again on the next change as well. I think I'll cut the filter apart this time to see if there is anything interesting inside.
I bought a gallon of the stuff for about $45 including tax at O'Reilly vs about $7.50 a pint can, so I saved about $15.
There is really no reason to try Seafoam in a LS1 crankcase that would offset the risk of french frying bearings.The Mobil 1 keeps the engine plenty clean. Just my opinion of course.Chuck.
I put a pint in the crankcase and operated the car for three weeks of sporadic driving, maybe three hours or so, and then drained and changed the oil. The oil I drained was MUCH darker than prior changes. I plan to do it again on the next change as well. I think I'll cut the filter apart this time to see if there is anything interesting inside.
I bought a gallon of the stuff for about $45 including tax at O'Reilly vs about $7.50 a pint can, so I saved about $15.
There is a better product for the crankcase, it is Lube Control LC20. It dissolves the carbon particles and controls oxidation. It also helps the TBN (Total Base Number) which is a measure of acid neutralization ability left in the oil.
The Seafoam product works great. If you don't know the history of the car after buying it used like me, sure, use Seafoam or product like it to help clean the inside of the motor.
Yes, you can pour a can in the crankcase and drive it for a while also. Once you do that once, you shouldn't have to do it again if you use the Mobil 1, or another quality oil, and change your oil religiously.
Here is Sea Foam's web address if you want to look at their products. The Bugs B Gone is another cool product and works great for getting the bug juices off of the front of your ride without rubbing hard with a bug sponge!
I say no go with putting it in the oil. My Dad and I put it in the crank case of a 327 we had several years ago. It DID clean it up on the inside but the problem was it cleaned it too much. It cleaned all the carbon from under the rings so that let the rings set further in the grooves. You can guess what happened after that. OIL BURNER FROM HELL One thing about it, when we tore down the engine it was clean on the inside
The previous comment is why I wasn't ready to add seafoam to anything but the gas tank. Have 73K on my 98 now and NOT BURNING OIL. Don't need a spic and span clean inside just one that is OIL TIGHT.
Also told that Seafoam in the vacuum line to decarbonize could cause the O2 sensors to fail. BIGHANK
The previous comment is why I wasn't ready to add seafoam to anything but the gas tank. Have 73K on my 98 now and NOT BURNING OIL. Don't need a spic and span clean inside just one that is OIL TIGHT.
Also told that Seafoam in the vacuum line to decarbonize could cause the O2 sensors to fail. BIGHANK
My '98 had 81K when I put a pint of Seafoam in the crankcase and a quart on two successive tanks in the fuel. I haven't tried the decarbon using the PCV input. The car is at 85K now, no oil consumption that I can measure (although I hope it is using SOME because otherwise SOMETHING isn't getting lubed properly). Fuel economy didn't change that I can measure, but engine response seems crisper. As for failing the O2 sensors, I'm not sure what the mechanism for failure would be since the product is combustible and will burn off in short order once the cats light off.
Just helping you understand this issue better .......... There is a lot of talk on this forum about whether or not to decarbonize with Sea Foam and also to add Sea Foam to the oil to clean the crankcase.
Bottom line ... if you end up using more oil after either treatment, you've simply uncovered a problem that already existed, you just didn't know it existed. The ring issue you speak of is bogus. The piston and rings are both machined to specific tolerances and fit together. Either the rings were wore out or the ring grooves in the pistons or both. Both can be caused by multiple things such as detonation (pinging/knocking), excessive loads (NOS), high temps (pulling trailers), and just plain old wear to name a few.
Sounds like your old 327 was tired and needed a rebuild not a cleaning. May be the lesson is to do things that prevent wear and failures so the oil burner from hell doesn't live in your garage!
Lots of talk about using mobil 1 in your engines. I'm new to the vette world(3 week owner). Before my C5 I was in the import tuner world and ran nothing but Royal Purple in my car. Is Mobil 1 the best for a vette? I was going to run Royal Purple in this car when the next oil change is due.
There is a better product for the crankcase, it is Lube Control LC20. It dissolves the carbon particles and controls oxidation. It also helps the TBN (Total Base Number) which is a measure of acid neutralization ability left in the oil.
Tell me more about this product. I have never heard of it.
Just helping you understand this issue better .......... There is a lot of talk on this forum about whether or not to decarbonize with Sea Foam and also to add Sea Foam to the oil to clean the crankcase.
Bottom line ... if you end up using more oil after either treatment, you've simply uncovered a problem that already existed, you just didn't know it existed. The ring issue you speak of is bogus. The piston and rings are both machined to specific tolerances and fit together. Either the rings were wore out or the ring grooves in the pistons or both. Both can be caused by multiple things such as detonation (pinging/knocking), excessive loads (NOS), high temps (pulling trailers), and just plain old wear to name a few.
Sounds like your old 327 was tired and needed a rebuild not a cleaning. May be the lesson is to do things that prevent wear and failures so the oil burner from hell doesn't live in your garage!
you may be right but the funny thing about it was that it didn't use any oil then we had the big idea of putting some of that stuff in the oil just to maybe clean the sludge. Well it sure did give it a good cleaning. I have torn down many engines and it's very common to see carbon under the rings. Well after putting the seafoam in we found out that the carbon was all gone from under the rings. Yes, it needed a rebuild but if we wouldn't of put the stuff in the oil then the carbon would still be under the rings and it would of been fine for a long time. I believe that engine cleaners are a BAD deal if you have an engine with alot of miles. If you have an engine that already used oil then you can't hurt too much but when it didn't burn any then it uses a ton of oil, well that pretty much tells what happend.
Tell me more about this product. I have never heard of it.
Thanks!
Rob
Well, I use the Mobil 1 because of the GM approval and the LS1 uses oil, has a history of skirt/piston clearance issues and also has lifter/valve train noise. I may switch to Castrol Syntec at some point myself as I am a Castrol guy.
Funny thing is .... Mobil 1 WAS the ONLY "true" synthetic left on the block .... they used PAO as the base oil. All others went to a Group III base oil due to cost a couple of years ago. Now, Mobil has changed to Group III. Now, all automotive synthetic's are synthetic in name only as a Group III is a highly refined mineral oil. Kind of takes the shine off of the Mobil 1 product after knowing this ... at least for me.