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Clutch removal help - C5

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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Default Clutch removal help - C5

Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.

Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ridenmyvette
Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.

Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
I feel for ya. I've removed the front suspension, engine, rear-end, transmission etc. That damn connector has pissed me off just about more than anything else. I want to say that the newer years are easier than mine was. I was replacing my slave so I just cut the damn hose with a lock cutter. Do some searches and you may find more details.

Good luck
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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I used an AC and fuel line disconnect tool kit. You can get these at any auto store.

This was the hardest part of the clutch install for me. Took about an hour and a half, 3 beers, and a whole lot of swearing.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffs FRC
I used an AC and fuel line disconnect tool kit. You can get these at any auto store.

This was the hardest part of the clutch install for me. Took about an hour and a half, 3 beers, and a whole lot of swearing.
also its a GREAT investment to buy the speed bleeder form L.A.P.D. Did a clutch swap many of times and I finally put the speed bleeder in and man it cut the time in half and less pain in the a$$ to bleed. Good Luck!
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ridenmyvette
Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.

Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
I was able to do it with my fingers but that sme..U could also use a pair of channel lock pliers but be very careful not to break the white ring bro...It's not hard at all...
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Push the hose in coming from the master cylinder, then use a smaller flat blade screw driver and push in one side of the white ring. Use your finger to hold it in then use the screw driver again on the exact opposite side that is pushed in. Pull and its out. The key is to keep the master cylinder hose pushed in while pushing the release ring in. I work for a Chevy dealer and done tons of clutches and never used the J tool once.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 07:35 AM
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I use a OTC 7910. It's available at auto parts stores for a couple of dollars.

Mark
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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I got the release tool from the SnapOn truck
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by blown alcohol
Push the hose in coming from the master cylinder, then use a smaller flat blade screw driver and push in one side of the white ring. Use your finger to hold it in then use the screw driver again on the exact opposite side that is pushed in. Pull and its out. The key is to keep the master cylinder hose pushed in while pushing the release ring in. I work for a Chevy dealer and done tons of clutches and never used the J tool once.

Did this on my clutch, worked perfectly.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve@CTCorvette
I got the release tool from the SnapOn truck
Got a number? I am readying a Snap-On order so maybe I will add it in.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Got a number? I am readying a Snap-On order so maybe I will add it in.
I think it's the one from post #7

it's a bit flimsy, but does work; I've heard napa carries a similar tool, I wouldn't buy the otc unit again, $30 piece of sheet metal
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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I made mine out of an old 5/8" open end wrench. Just a bit of grinding and wiz-bang! Works just like a store bought tool.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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I use a long pair of needle nose pliers with the bent end, once you reach up and push in on the collar it will stay, it's actually harder to reassemble the hose then it is to take it apart.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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Sounds like a few of us are doing the same thing right now. This is actually the step I left at last night. My torque tube has been pulled a few inches and this is all that is left.

I haven't tried anything yet, but I think I will go try now with some screwdrivers before I go buy yet another tool.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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Does anyone make an aftermarket piece to replace this line? That would be nice to just have a regular line in there minus this contrary thing.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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From: Derry NH
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Going to buy a tool................

I think I may have mangled that little plastic thing. Seriously! WTF??? I can't understand how such a queer connector was ever approved. I work in an industrial setting, I deal with quick connects that see thousands of pounds of pressure that are simple, ALL METAL connectors that you can undo with one hand.

Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Sometimes the connector will be unlatched but if you take some pliers to both pieces and pull apart it will let go. I had this just last week, took some needle nose with the round ends and it pulled right apart. I started by using screw drivers to work the plastic collar in then pulled it apart.

Originally Posted by Casem1
Going to buy a tool................

I think I may have mangled that little plastic thing. Seriously! WTF??? I can't understand how such a queer connector was ever approved. I work in an industrial setting, I deal with quick connects that see thousands of pounds of pressure that are simple, ALL METAL connectors that you can undo with one hand.

Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Casem1

Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
Definitely take the header out, when I do a clutch I remove headers.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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Yeah this is a pain in the ***, particularly if the car is older. Once you get it off the first time, you'll see what we mean by the white ring releasing the "fingers". I used a flat head screwdriver and alot of foul language.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:54 PM
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I pulled the torque tube and left the slave connected hydraulicly. I just unbolted it from the torque tube. I may disconnect it and maybe not, depends on how the reinstall goes.

BTW, as suspected my pilot bearing is FUBAR.
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