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Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.
Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.
Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
I feel for ya. I've removed the front suspension, engine, rear-end, transmission etc. That damn connector has pissed me off just about more than anything else. I want to say that the newer years are easier than mine was. I was replacing my slave so I just cut the damn hose with a lock cutter. Do some searches and you may find more details.
I used an AC and fuel line disconnect tool kit. You can get these at any auto store.
This was the hardest part of the clutch install for me. Took about an hour and a half, 3 beers, and a whole lot of swearing.
also its a GREAT investment to buy the speed bleeder form L.A.P.D. Did a clutch swap many of times and I finally put the speed bleeder in and man it cut the time in half and less pain in the a$$ to bleed. Good Luck!
Hi Guys. I am in the middle of removing the clutch in my 2000 coupe. I am at the step in the corvette service manual from chevy where is says to use tool j-36221, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.
Now my problem is I don't have that tool. I can get one but I am sure its an order piece. How much does it cost? And is there another tool that can do the job or a different way to disconnect it. Thanks
I was able to do it with my fingers but that sme..U could also use a pair of channel lock pliers but be very careful not to break the white ring bro...It's not hard at all...
Push the hose in coming from the master cylinder, then use a smaller flat blade screw driver and push in one side of the white ring. Use your finger to hold it in then use the screw driver again on the exact opposite side that is pushed in. Pull and its out. The key is to keep the master cylinder hose pushed in while pushing the release ring in. I work for a Chevy dealer and done tons of clutches and never used the J tool once.
Push the hose in coming from the master cylinder, then use a smaller flat blade screw driver and push in one side of the white ring. Use your finger to hold it in then use the screw driver again on the exact opposite side that is pushed in. Pull and its out. The key is to keep the master cylinder hose pushed in while pushing the release ring in. I work for a Chevy dealer and done tons of clutches and never used the J tool once.
I use a long pair of needle nose pliers with the bent end, once you reach up and push in on the collar it will stay, it's actually harder to reassemble the hose then it is to take it apart.
Sounds like a few of us are doing the same thing right now. This is actually the step I left at last night. My torque tube has been pulled a few inches and this is all that is left.
I haven't tried anything yet, but I think I will go try now with some screwdrivers before I go buy yet another tool.
I think I may have mangled that little plastic thing. Seriously! WTF??? I can't understand how such a queer connector was ever approved. I work in an industrial setting, I deal with quick connects that see thousands of pounds of pressure that are simple, ALL METAL connectors that you can undo with one hand.
Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
Sometimes the connector will be unlatched but if you take some pliers to both pieces and pull apart it will let go. I had this just last week, took some needle nose with the round ends and it pulled right apart. I started by using screw drivers to work the plastic collar in then pulled it apart.
Originally Posted by Casem1
Going to buy a tool................
I think I may have mangled that little plastic thing. Seriously! WTF??? I can't understand how such a queer connector was ever approved. I work in an industrial setting, I deal with quick connects that see thousands of pounds of pressure that are simple, ALL METAL connectors that you can undo with one hand.
Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
Maybe if I could get the junk LG Streets out of the way (more on that and pictures to be posted later in a "LG Sucks" thread) then I would have more luck.
Definitely take the header out, when I do a clutch I remove headers.
Yeah this is a pain in the ***, particularly if the car is older. Once you get it off the first time, you'll see what we mean by the white ring releasing the "fingers". I used a flat head screwdriver and alot of foul language.
I pulled the torque tube and left the slave connected hydraulicly. I just unbolted it from the torque tube. I may disconnect it and maybe not, depends on how the reinstall goes.