Did a couple searchs and I can't find what I'm looking for:

I think it was within about the last 6 months, there were some pictures of a Yellow C5 where the owner had installed a tranny cooler, and he had used pipe which was NICELY formed/bent to connect the radiator to the tranny cooler (ie: he ran the fluid thru the radiator then into the tranny cooler, then back to the tranny)

If I recall correctly, the member who had this yellow C5 MIGHT (not entirely sure) have been banned from the Forum for whatever reason.

I'm going to be installing a tranny cooler in the near future, I like the idea of using tubing, and I liked the pics that I recall seeing. Can anyone remember the thread I'm talking about, do the pictures still exist if the owner was banned from the Forum, and if the pics still exist, can you give me the link or post them?

ALSO, does anyone know what type of fittings would turn into the radiator tranny line holes and onto the radiator lines from the tranny? I'm thinking they are "AN" type ends, but I'm wondering about the size, etc in case I decide to go with braided lines.

THANKS.

 

I don't know about the install you're referring to, but I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that. You just need some tubing the same diameter as that coming to the rad, a tubing bender, and a flare tool or some compression fittings.

Oh, and a bunch of patience getting all those bends right!

Would be an excellent install, though!

Good luck, and have a good one,
Mike

 

Iteresting idea. But not sure why? the external trans cooler does more then enough cooling.

Dont forget to add a pump to move the fluid.

There are plenty of hightemp flexable hoses that work very well.

Here are mine.

Trans cooler, AC condenser, Oil cooler


trinton trans cooler pump in right rear wheel well- blue high temp flex hosing,


Accu-sump in the left front wheel well


Manual switches in ash try


Dont use t-stats, as they tend to fail or wait too long to switch any pumps on. Use a manual switch.

Downfalls - the trinton pump in right rear wheel well is LOUD, VERY VERY LOUD. Too loud for street use, but then you dont need the trans cooler then unless your running an automatic.

Good Luck on your project

 

Yep, I've got an A4 auto . . . w/ a Yank SS3200 stall converter - so, since my radiator and a/c condensor are currently removed to provide room for my heads / cam project, when I put things back together I'm planning on adding a B & M tranny cooler IN LINE with the existing radiator cooler for the transmission -

My car's a daily driver (although it's SPIRITED daily driving ), and I'm just trying to avoid tranny failure due to high operating temps.

 

Here is some info below I got off the forum here here a while back and saved it. Also, when I did mine, I did it in aluminum tubing, and someone said it would crack later on. I think steel tubing is OK. Anyway, I used AN fitting for braided hoses, but the braided hose was a PITA to get on the fittings, so I just used rubber hose without the braid. Also, if you ise braided hoses, you will have to make sure it's clamped down all over or it will wear into anything it touches.


Many people like the B&M 70264 (14,400 BTU 6x11x1.5), which is sometimes referred to as a 24,000 GVW cooler. Summit’s # is BMM-70264. It includes hoses, clamps, and adapters as well as everything you need to mount the cooler. If you prefer to use AN fittings and stainless steel braided hose then get the B&M 70273. Summits # is BMM-70273 and it doesn’t come with an installation kit.

A lot of people prefer the larger B&M 70270 (8x11x1.5) to drop temps down more. Summit’s # is BMM-70270 and it comes with the same installation kit as the 70264. For use with braided lines the Summit # is BMM-70266. I use the #70297 for extra insurance on a road course in the summer heat.

If you want to use braided lines you’ll need Summit’s SUM-G4990 mounting kit and these additional parts:

Note: Summit puts a prefix in front of the number (AER-)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2013 –6 AN to ½ NPT male adapter (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM1022 –6 AN 45* swivel hose end (trans return line)

(2) Aeroquip FCM4032 –6 AN 90* swivel hose end (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM4042 –6 AN 120* swivel hose end (radiator)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2108 –6 AN to 5/8 –18 inverted flare adapter (radiator & trans return line)

(1) Aeroquip FCA0606 –6 AN AQP racing hose, 6ft.

(1) GM # 442338 (or similar) 5/8 –18 inverted flare female union (trans return line)

Aeroquip website: http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/lit.html

B&M uses ½ NPT female fittings on their coolers, others may be different.

It may be wise to cover up the steel braided line with some of that corrugated split plastic wrap as the steel braid can be very abrasive on whatever it contacts,

GM used the 5/8 –18 inverted flare fittings on transmission lines, through at least 2001 and probably later, then it was changed to something else but I can't recall what it is.

While many people choose to rout the lines a different way, I prefer putting the cooler between the stock cooler in the radiator and the return (upper) line of the trans. That way the radiator will help warm the fluid when it’s cold (which many say is a good thing, especially in cold climates) and the cooler can still bring it down to a good level, especially if it’s a 70270 or 70266 cooler

 

Some pics is when I had the aluminum tubing on but never used it, and went with rubber transmission hose on AN fittings.

 

Will be adding a cooler (B&M probably) and would like to add a way to check level and fill other than jacking, running and fingering. Can a sump or reservoir provide that?
Thanks in advance.

 

Tom, Why Is A Separate Pump Necessary? I Thought The Lines Were Presurized. They Were In My C4.

 

Not always enough pressure. The extra pump keeps the fluid moving. Plus when the weather is cold, you dont turn the pump on. The trans fluid need some heat to work and lubricate too.

When I am on the track in Feb, I dont turn the trans pump on, its too cold out.

Rember I have a MN6, not an automatic.

Even with an A4 or new A6 those automtic trans heat up almost too much on a road ciruit. The built-in cooler is just bearly adiquite. The extra trans cooler or pump may be needed.

Just watch those trans fluid temps and that alarm which autos, and the Z06 have. If the alarm is going off quite frequently then time to look at alternatives.

Using synthic fluid helps a lot. RedLine, Amsoil, M1 trans and gear oils keep the temps down. And dont listen to those ney sayers as some of these fluids dont have a GM number or meet GM specs, these work better.

I change my trans and Diff fluids every 4 track weekends. I use M1 synthic ATF and M1 synthitic Gear oil.

I can also say with the trans cooler, oil cooler / accusump combo, I have had few maintaince problems then many other ppl on the track. I dont have a diff cooler.

Here is the trans cooler kit I have
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12480080

 

Thanks for the info. I've been thinking about the solid lines, and I don't see why they would crack; the lines aren't connected to the engine, the cooler and rad will be effectively one unit mechanically, so I don't see where there would be enough vibration to work-harden the lines.

I'll probably go with steel lines myself (on my '03 Crown Vic), just because you can bend the steel easier without collapsing or cracking aluminum of the same diameter.

Have a good one,
Mike

 

THANKS TOM. SINCE I DONT TRACK MINE, I WONT WORRY ABOUT THE PUMP. BUT YOU'RE RIGHT ABOUT THE COOLER. I PUT ONE ON MY C4 AND I COULDNT BELIEVE THE TEMP DIFFERENCES. BEST 75 BUCKS SPENT. MY C5 AUTO TEMPS CURRENTLY ARE STAYING UNDER 180 WITH ONLY THE RAD COOLER, EVEN IN MOUNTAIN DRIVING. BUT ILL PUT ONE ON ANYWAY.