I should start by explaining that this only happens about once a week, at most. It always happens after I drive to work in the AM and leave the car all day - about 9-10 hours. I've never had it happen when leaving the car overnight, at home.

Here are the details:

1. I get in my car and I turn the key, per usual.
2. The engine cranks well - no problem there.
3. The engine does not fire up, right away.

Normally, the engine fires after about a second or so of cranking. When this problem occurs, the engine won't fire for about 3 seconds of cranking. I know this doesn't sound like a long time, but it's noticably different than normal. Any ideas why this happens? Solutions?

Thanks, Bruce

PS. The car has new plugs, but this problem occured both before and after changing plugs. I didn't change them to correct this problem. I did them for routine maintenance.
PPS. The car is a 6spd 2000 FRC and has about 40k miles.

 

Check your fuel pressure. Hook up a gauge and turn on key (no start). Gauge should go to 58-61 psi, and stay there (or at least close). If the pressure bleeds back off within a couple seconds, the most likely culprit is the rear fuel feed pipe. There's a check valve in the line that may have failed and the pressure won't hold during the start cycle. Once running everything's fine.
Try a search on this.
HTH,
Robert

 

 

Thanks for the quick replies, guys.

Robert, I found a post in the archives where you asked about the procedure for replacing this part. No one answered you.... Do you have any advice on how to replace this? I know I'll need a fuel line tool - I figure I might replace the filter, as well. What parts (if any) need to be unbolted, removed, or loosened to fix this? Any help appreciated. I'm just wondering what I'll be in for when I get under the car.

Thanks again, Bruce

PS. I went searching gmpartsdirect for this item and found a picture - supposedly applicable to 00-02 Corvettes. Does this look right? Click this link, followed by "FILLER NECK" -> "Pipe, Fuel Feed 00-02" http://www.motorplace.com/flow-pcx/p...1169861286006#

 

I can't get that link to open. IT folks here at work. I checked my parts listing and I'm coming up with GM # 10448899. It shows for '99 & '00 both.
These lines are pre-molded nylon and don't have a whole lot of forgiveness to twisting/bending. Removing the old one is not a concern for kinking of course, but getting the new one in sure is. If you're not going to lower the left side fuel tank, the tricky part is trying to get the new hose in w/o kinking it. The way that hose (and a couple others right next to it) is routed is the problem. Remove the fuel tank shield shield (3 or 4 bolts) and you'll see where the lines are. The tank has three lines attached to it. The one that comes off the tank and has a "Y" it is the one you're after. One leg of the "Y" goes up and to another hose which goes to the right tank and the other leg goes forward to the fuel filter.
Toolwise, you're not going to need anything exotic. Regular hand tools and of course a set of fuel line disconnects. Also have a set of hose plugs too. I used the colored vinyl ones that come in a pack of asst sizes. They are necessary for when you disconnect the line from the tank. Pop the line off and very quickly put your finger over the hole then cap it off. Very little fuel loss. Replacing the filter is also a good idea too (very easy) as long as you're there.
I would recommend using one of the forum vendors such as Beans, Fichtner of Gene Culley. GM Parts Direct has good pricing but kills you on shipping and winds up being more expensive.
HTH,
Robert

 

Thanks for the info. Strange though - I just can't seem to find that number, myself. I use the gmpartsdirect site to find part numbers, generally. In this case, that one doesn't appear anywhere for a 2000 Corvette. I can't explain it.

The fredbeansparts.com site isn't working, now. I've purchased from them, before. Maybe I'll give them a call. Thanks again, Bruce

 

Before you go buying parts I would:

1. Cycle the key on and off 2 or 3 times first to build fuel pressure if it is actually low. Then see if it starts in a timely fashion.

2. Hold the pedal to the floor before cranking and keep it on the floor while cranking. It should go into "clear flood mode" and not give any fuel. If it was flooded due to leaky injectors or something, it should fire up sooner, then let off the pedal.

 

Give Bob Wendorff a call at Fichtner Chev on Monday. He's the parts mangle...., er manager and a good guy. Dealt with him numerous times. Being a GM dealer, they get all the latest updates and/or changes to part numbers.
Their toll free number is: 1-800-234-5284

Robert

 

The first thing I'm going to do is check the pressure leakdown with a fuel pressure gauge. If there's a problem, I will order parts. Thanks for the suggestions, but unfortunately, there's no way what you're describing would work for me, as this problem is intermittent. Plus, by the time I've had the car cranking with the key on for more than a second, it's too late to try anything else because the fuel pump has been running the whole time. Even when I let the key move back from the "crank" position, the ignition is still "on" so the fuel pump is running. As a result the next time I hit the crank position, it'll almost certainly fire immediately. See what I mean?

 

 

I'm sorry to say that I still haven't gotten around to checking the fuel pressure. Been too busy with other things. I will let you know, I promise. It's going to be a while though. Interestingly, this problem has not reproed since I posted the first message in this thread. Maybe that's why I'm not too anxious to tear into this - that and the fact that it's pretty cold in my garage, these days!

 

Give us a holler when you do.

 

I don't know how similar my problem was recently, but here is my scenario. I have a 97 Cadillac deville, 27,000 miles, always babied. In the mornings, some would turn for 3 or 4 seconds before catching.
Took it to cadillac mechanic. He told me that is a common problem on many caddies with the failure of some part, but the 97 did not have that part on it.
He recommended that I drive the car until the gas tank was almost empty. Then I should start using a brand name fuel instead of Walmart or Sams.
Tried that--no change. Tried it 3 or 4 times. Then it cured itself. ???? Car has been running perfectly for 2 months. Sounds like I had some bad gas. Good luck with yours.
Ed

 

Bruce

For your car not to fire right off, you are missing one of two things:

- Fuel
- Spark

For the spark, it would most likely be a bad ground or the coils are not getting a solid 12.VDC supply when the problems happens.

For the fuel, your fuel system is designed to be completely full of fuel from the fuel pick up strainer in the drivers fuel tank, ALL the way to the injectors. Once the ignition is turned ON,,,you should hear a faint humming noise (from the fuel pump) coming from the hatch area. It will last for a second or two and then stop. Thats your fuel pump charging the fuel lines. Once the pump stops, you should have pressurized fuel at the fuel injectors ready to supply each cylinder.

My 98 had a problem when cold cranking, it would NOT start!

Found out that the pump wouldn't run until I cycled the key 6-7 times. It was due to a bad fuel pump ground.

If the internal fuel system check valve in the tank is bad/dirty,,,,it will allow the fuel to drain out of the fuel system and return to the tank. That will cause air to get in the lines and it will need to get purged out before fuel can reach the injectors. Causing excessive cranking time.

A leaky injector will cause the same thing except, you will some times see excessive smoke upon start up.

If you can not start the car in the first 1/2 sec or so of cranking, give that ON/OFF thing a try.

Try this:

Turn the key to ignition ON, listen for the fuel pump. Once it stops, turn the key off and back to ON. Listen for the pump, then do it one more time and then when it stops, start the engine.

As previously stated checking the fuel pressure is a very good start at understanding whats causing the problem.



z06Bigbird

Running a fuel with a higher detergent could have cleaned a leaky injector, a sticky fuel pump check valve ect....


BC

 

Well, I'm still leaning toward the check valve problem, of all these ideas. I bought the car in Illinois. Prior to falling into my hands, this car had some cheap gas in it and had the fuel guage problem. I've been using ONLY Chevron 92 octane gas and that fuel guage problem is now completely gone. Since the starting problem still has not reproed since my original post, I suspect that the Chevron gas is continuing to purge the fuel system of the goo that caused the guage issue and I probably won't have to replace any hard parts. The fuel pump comes on every time I hit the key, so I don't think I've got a bad ground there. But I can see how that would foul things up! I also don't think I've got a bad ignition ground, as the car runs very strong, idles great, throws no codes, etc. I suppose anything is possible, but I think the place to start is the fuel pressure. If that's fine, and the starting problem comes back, I'll start looking elsewhere.